Originally Posted by knugent
When I removed the transition piece on mine, it was secured by screws every 8 inches or so. My roof was so bad that the rear cap had actually separated from the body by about 3/4 in. and I had to replace a 12 in. wide section of roof, full width. When I replaced the molding I put the double stick Eternabond under it, then 6 inch over it. I just screwed through the tape. I completely removed my roof rack and ladder. I will use a stepladder when I need to go upside.By the way, Lichstinn Motors has that transition piece for about $35 if you need a new one. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info ion the strip, Mine is pretty rough due to all the crap that was on it but it will be under the Eternabond so I don't think I need the new one. I was surprised at how thin the aluminum is on the roof! I thought it would be at least 1/8" thick. I poked a hole in it while trying to get the epoxy off and it is maybe 20 gauge? That is not a whole lot thicker than foil.
I decided not to screw the cap to the roof, i put a bunch of bricks on it to hold it down tight so I could caulk it with Proflex sealant. I knew it was going to rain today so I tarped it over again and will put the transition strip on tomorrow if it clears and caulk around that also. Then Eternabond over the whole seam from side to side. I am actually not using Eternabond but a differend brand that is the same thing. The last time I bought it the price was substantially cheaper but this time I am not sure, 71.00 for a 4"X50' roll. The side seams from the rear cap to the side panels look like they will need some attention too. Especially one side where the whole piece is away from the panels. See pic of the tape I used below. I am betting I am going to have to do this all over again on the front seam also.
Rick and Dianne, dogs Ranger and Shelby
1989 Winnebago Chieftain
Recently retired and now broke