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Old 12-18-2013, 05:50 AM   #15
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concerning possible floor repairs as mentioned Call Winnebago and ask for a copy of their Dealer Bulletin entitled "Recommended procedure for the diagnosis and repair of a soft floor complaint" last printed in 1995. The metal you are seeing under the floor is aluminum.
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:27 PM   #16
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Well the weather warmed up to a balmy 28 degrees today but at least it was not raining or snowing so I attacked the rear roof area where the metal roof meets the rear cap. What a conglomeration of crap they had on there! You could not even see the transition strip! It had some kind of grey putty that was still sticky in some places but rock hard in most. I mean hard as in epoxy hard. That had areas of silicone over it with a coating of some sort of white stuff that was also hard but flaked of anywhere it contacted the silicone. Imagine that. Took all afternoon but I got the transition strip off and chiseled all of the epoxy off of the aluminum top. Still have to clean it off of the cap.The cap stands up above the roof about 1/4" without the transition strip so I am going to drill a few holes and counter sink them so I can pull them together and caulk them before putting the strip back on. Once I put the strip on I will put Eternabond over the whole thing from side molding to side molding. I will also reseal all of the ladder and railing mounts at the same time. I would love to just eliminate the luggage rack since it will never be used and is just another place to leak but unfortunately it is part of the ladder. I didn't get any pictures because I was pressed for time, it is going to rain again on Sunday and this has to be done. I will snap a few if I get time tomorrow.

After posting this I was thinking that the only place that the rear cap had screws was one on each end and it had stress cracks around that. Do you guys think it might be better to not caulk that seam or put screws in the cap? I am thinking about just screwing the strip to the roof as it was before and using butyl tape under the strip and Eternabond over it. That way the cap can float and has room to expand and contract.
Your thoughts?
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:20 PM   #17
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When I removed the transition piece on mine, it was secured by screws every 8 inches or so. My roof was so bad that the rear cap had actually separated from the body by about 3/4 in. and I had to replace a 12 in. wide section of roof, full width. When I replaced the molding I put the double stick Eternabond under it, then 6 inch over it. I just screwed through the tape. I completely removed my roof rack and ladder. I will use a stepladder when I need to go upside.By the way, Lichstinn Motors has that transition piece for about $35 if you need a new one. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knugent View Post
When I removed the transition piece on mine, it was secured by screws every 8 inches or so. My roof was so bad that the rear cap had actually separated from the body by about 3/4 in. and I had to replace a 12 in. wide section of roof, full width. When I replaced the molding I put the double stick Eternabond under it, then 6 inch over it. I just screwed through the tape. I completely removed my roof rack and ladder. I will use a stepladder when I need to go upside.By the way, Lichstinn Motors has that transition piece for about $35 if you need a new one. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info ion the strip, Mine is pretty rough due to all the crap that was on it but it will be under the Eternabond so I don't think I need the new one. I was surprised at how thin the aluminum is on the roof! I thought it would be at least 1/8" thick. I poked a hole in it while trying to get the epoxy off and it is maybe 20 gauge? That is not a whole lot thicker than foil.
I decided not to screw the cap to the roof, i put a bunch of bricks on it to hold it down tight so I could caulk it with Proflex sealant. I knew it was going to rain today so I tarped it over again and will put the transition strip on tomorrow if it clears and caulk around that also. Then Eternabond over the whole seam from side to side. I am actually not using Eternabond but a differend brand that is the same thing. The last time I bought it the price was substantially cheaper but this time I am not sure, 71.00 for a 4"X50' roll. The side seams from the rear cap to the side panels look like they will need some attention too. Especially one side where the whole piece is away from the panels. See pic of the tape I used below. I am betting I am going to have to do this all over again on the front seam also.

Rick
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