Community Forums

rickf · 12-06-2013, 10:42 AM

I figured it was time to start a new thread due to not getting much in the way of replies on the other one. The title was a little out of date with what I am now doing. I am getting ready to start resealing the roof and I am looking for ideas and opinions. The roof is aluminum, contrary to what I was told by Winnebago. Some of the leaks are around the windows so I am just going to pull them out one at a time and reinstall over butyl tape. The roof is something that is different from what I am used to. I see a seam along the sides and from the front and rear caps to the roof. These seams appear to have originally had a gasket, maybe to accommodate movement between the parts? I was planning to clean all of the old crap off that has been put on over the years and replace it with Eternabond tape. Does anyone see a problem with this? What is the lower limit of temperature that it can be applied? I guess I can e-mail the company for that info.

Rick

eddieelk · 12-06-2013, 11:18 AM

RickF. Don't fault the Forum members for not replying to some of the posts about older units. Most of the members disposed of these units 20 years ago, and have to use their memories about what they did back then. The Forum library has articles on just about any subject concerning motorhomes you can need. My '87 Pace Arrow sprung a leak in the rear, and I'm tearing into now, removing some windows and inside walls. I have the EPDM roof which I'll have to replace the back 8' of. Owning an old motorhome is a pure labor of love. I have used Eternabond on all seams on the roof, and it usually doesn't leak. You're lucky to have a metal roof, and long as your joists are solid. My rear ones have weakened to a point of needing replacement. I love it anyway, it gets me off of the couch. Eddie Elk.

eddieelk · 12-06-2013, 11:30 AM

RickF, Eternabond site states it can be applied between -20 to 150 degrees, and is flexible to -70 degrees. Eddie Elk.

rickf · 12-06-2013, 05:02 PM

Thanks Eddie, I was not implying that nobody was replying on purpose. My posts had been under the original heading of "purchased an 89 ............." and everyone had already looked through that one which was mostly pertaining to my issues with a water pump. As far as the age of the unit, I don't expect everyone to have a unit this old but that is why I am on the "Vintage" page. I do not and never will have the money to buy anything even approaching less than 20 years old so I work with what I have. Believe me when I say I appreciate any advice I get.

Rick

sam-3 · 12-06-2013, 07:15 PM

We have taken out all six windows in our 1990 HiLo and reinstalled. Lexell caulk is the best choice to use on the exterior window or sikaflex. Youtube has a video on this process. With the window out you will get a peek at your interior walls. Hopefully you won't find any water damage. Let me know if you need any more detailed information.

rickf · 12-07-2013, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam-3

We have taken out all six windows in our 1990 HiLo and reinstalled. Lexell caulk is the best choice to use on the exterior window or sikaflex. Youtube has a video on this process. With the window out you will get a peek at your interior walls. Hopefully you won't find any water damage. Let me know if you need any more detailed information.

There is damage to the inside walls but thanks to the metal framework of the Winnie it is limited to the inside wall. I will address the inside issues after I get it all sealed up. I notice that the paneling and vinyl covering are made as one so replacing that with the same thing is probably out.

sam-3 · 12-08-2013, 12:42 AM

Georgia Pacific makes paneling with vinyl covering on it. We were able to order it through our ACE hardware store at $35.00 a sheet. We had extensive interior wall water damage. When you are ready for interior wall repairs I will give you some advice/guidance if you would like. It has been three years since our repairs were completed and we are hi and dry in our 1990 HiLo.

rickf · 12-08-2013, 07:40 AM

Thanks Sam, I had covered the rear 1/3 of the MH but it got wet inside anyway. It seems to be running back the side seem and then in at the joint where it meets the rear cap. I now have a 30 foot tarp over it until the weather breaks and I can do something. I need to get it turned around to get the rear end higher than the front but I have a badly leaking gas line so I am weighing my options of dropping the gas tank where it is. Not the best scenario, uneven ground and WET. I think I am just going to have to pick a windy day and turn the beast around and get it better positioned to drop the tank. I could stop the leaking by disabling the electric pump but I think I would just pull air with the mechanical at that point and end up dead on the street. Too many things at once going on here!!! I will be contacting you about the paneling.

Rick

sam-3 · 12-08-2013, 10:29 PM

Spend some time on the internet this winter doing a search for paneling. You may find something the wife just loves. The paneling you will most likely use is 1/8" thick. You will most likely use a 1/8 underlay of luan in the walls. You will know what to use when you actually tear the wall apart down to the fiberglass/aluminum.

spritz · 12-09-2013, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickf

I figured it was time to start a new thread due to not getting much in the way of replies on the other one. The title was a little out of date with what I am now doing. I am getting ready to start resealing the roof and I am looking for ideas and opinions. The roof is aluminum, contrary to what I was told by Winnebago. Some of the leaks are around the windows so I am just going to pull them out one at a time and reinstall over butyl tape. The roof is something that is different from what I am used to. I see a seam along the sides and from the front and rear caps to the roof. These seams appear to have originally had a gasket, maybe to accommodate movement between the parts? I was planning to clean all of the old crap off that has been put on over the years and replace it with Eternabond tape. Does anyone see a problem with this? What is the lower limit of temperature that it can be applied? I guess I can e-mail the company for that info.

Rick

Hey Rick, Ours is a 82 and has a aluminum roof also and has a seam of a white material about 6 inches wide around the whole roof I presume that it came from the factory this way. All seems to be fine no leaks and can't find any of the windows have leaked. Some of the wall paper has come loose.

but I think it is from condensation. We have been in several rain storms while on the road and yet have found any leaks or wet walls. I have sat in it while its raining sitting in the driveway no leaks.

I guess we have been lucky.
We do have a problem with the rear gas tank and that is if I try and squeeze another dollar into the tank at the gas station it will start to come out the overflow line. I didn't know this until a coper pulled me over on the HWY the first week we had it telling me I had a leak out the rear. He was not a happy camper either. I told him I just bought it, still not happy. I think he thought it was the blk water tank, anyhow I climbed under the rear end and sure enough it was running out like a water hose. I told my partner to grab a 1157 bulb I couldn't think of anything else sitting on the side of the HWY with a coper breathing down my neck and sure enough I stuck it in the hose and it stopped.

We sat for a few minutes to see if it would continue to hold and after about 5 minutes he released us

I didn't know we were arrested. So now when the pump stops I stop. I love the older units. I too could never buy a new one not on SSDI unless I hit the jackpot

Then watch out . Good luck with you vintage MH don't give up.

Tim.

KAttkisson · 12-17-2013, 07:36 AM

I have a 93 Winnebago with the alum. roof. I have had to do some repairs to the side seams as one of the previous owners must have had a close encounter with a tree limb.

The roof had been lifted out of the side pockets for about 1 linear foot along both sides. I saw no signs of a gasket as you are asking just the caulking that the factory uses. The roof was just bent to a 90 deg. angle and inserted and caulked.

Due to it having been like this for some time I couldn't keep it down for some reason. I reseated it again and installed some SS screws down into the alum. extrusion that runs under the corner. I would have to caution about using too many screws as the whole concept is to allow the roof to expand and contract.

One other responder has stated that his has a ridge all the way around it. This is probably eternal bond. I used some to do just that on a previous camper and it is good stuff.

I am investigating coating the roof with EPDM rubber coating as soon as the weather warms back up. I am an extremely light sleeper and even the water falling out the trees or a light shower is magnified by the metal roof. This is something I learned after purchase and a word to the wise.

If you have had water inside which your posts indicate be sure to be prepared for floor rot. Winnebago used some OSB & Laun in some of their floor construction in the early years which may be tight now while wet but turns to nothing but fiber when dried out.

Ken Attkisson '93 22' Winnebago
Rockville, Va.

rickf · 12-17-2013, 04:42 PM

Thanks Ken, The information on the roof is exactly the type of thing I am looking for. The weather has been bad ever since Thanksgiving so I had to just tarp the whole thing until the weather breaks a little. I have a friend with a HUGE storage garage but it is full. I am going to try to get him to clear a spot big enough for me to get in there so I can do the roof without worrying about the weather. I have to fix the gas leak first which means I am working outside no matter what until I get that done so I can drive it. I am pretty sure I am going to have to replace some floor. Looking up from underneath I see metal so I am guessing the wood is over metal? I may have rotted metal to deal with also?

Rick

knugent · 12-17-2013, 08:49 PM

Good luck with your roof repairs. I recently went through what you are facing. I have an 89 Chieftain that the PO had apparently allowed water to pool on the roof, so the metal was perforated with hundreds of pinholes. The eternabond tape turned out to be my solution. Like every thing else, prep is the key. After a good cleaning, I used a brass-bristled brush around each area I wanted to tape, followed by a scrubbing with a red Scotchbrite pad soaked with acetone, then a final cleaning with an acetone-soaked rag. I would then immediately apply the tape.(Make sure you are right the first time, because you don't get a second chance with this stuff). Also key to success is that you use a roller like the one they recommend. The one they sell is a bit pricey, but I found one at Southerland's for about $15.00 that was made of hard rubber that worked very well.The roller is what activates the tape. On the seams, I cut the 6 in. tape in half, ending up with 3 in. that I used to cover the seams. Again, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of rolling the tape after you have applied it. After using three rolls of the 6 in tape X 50 ft, I completed the job by applying 5 coats of the Black Jack Elastomeric 1000 roof coating that I bought at Lowe's.
I just can't describe to you just how bad my roof was, and the resulting damage it caused to the interior, but let me tell you that I am very satisfied with the results that the eternabond tape gave me. By the way, if you have an ABC Roofing distributor in your area, they carry a line of tape that I believe that is just as good as the eternabond, but quite a bit cheaper.
One day, when I can get the time and learn how to post pictures, I hope to start a thread on my renovation. I have been at it for a year now, and basically the entire interior has been gutted.
I hope this helps, and if I can be of assistance, please let me know. I have learned a lot about the old 89 on this journey.

rickf · 12-18-2013, 04:38 AM

Knugent, I also use a different brand of tape that I get from an Allied roofing supply. They are all the same, just different name. Eternabond is substantially higher price because it is associated with camper repairs but it is the same tape as the the other micro-cellular tapes. I hopefully do not have any holes in my roof, I don't think it got to that point but the weather has been so bad I just had to tarp the whole thing and wait for better weather. Or a spot in my buddies storage barn.