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Old 09-21-2014, 09:40 PM   #15
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I'm glad 1 of the 10 clearance lights lit, give's me hope that it's just bulbs.

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Old 09-22-2014, 01:30 PM   #16
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Good luck and welcome. ROLL TIDE!!!!!
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Old 09-22-2014, 05:31 PM   #17
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Good luck and welcome. ROLL TIDE!!!!!
1st acknowledgement by a fellow college football fan!

With the parking lights on this am, the lowers were glowing and no power to the forward top. I wire brushed with a dremel & nothing. Back to the fuse block.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:05 PM   #18
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Often the power comes up to the driver's side front, then branches out to the others from there.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:43 PM   #19
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Often the power comes up to the driver's side front, then branches out to the others from there.
Thanks, AH, I'll see what is out here. I appreciate your help.

Slowly making progress.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:55 AM   #20
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1st acknowledgement by a fellow college football fan!

With the parking lights on this am, the lowers were glowing and no power to the forward top. I wire brushed with a dremel & nothing. Back to the fuse block.
Sam, concerning the clearance lights, they are all daisy-chained together, so any break at the beginning end interrupts all that follow. My experience with that is that it is easier to plan on replacing all the clearance light assemblies if you can afford to. You will likely destroy a few of them getting them off, and the bulb sockets will ALWAYS be a future problem.

To get to the daisy-chained connections, you will need to remove gobs of silicone and it will be a lesson to you as to why so many folks will advise you NOT to use silicone for sealing virtually anything. It is absolute hell to remove completely, and virtually nothing will adhere to it. Once you painstakingly remove all of it using some plastic tools that will not gouge your fiberglass, you can reseal the new ones with a very modest amount of a polyurethane sealant. There are quite a few LED replacements that are either waterproof, or can easily be made waterproof. You will have to seal the body of the light to keep water from getting behind its base and leaking through the holes the wires are fed through.

As for the wires themselves, my advice is solder the connections. If nothing else, solder the daisy-chain and run short leads mechanically fastened to the lights. The wires will require cleaning before soldering--they will be blackened by corrosion. Use a soldering paste to help clean them and make the solder flow.

Note that you will have wires feeding overhead both from driver-side windshield pillar and up through the center windshield divider. At some time, you should take a look at how your center pillar is fastened at top and bottom. The pillar is SUPPOSED to support the center of the front cap to prevent windshield sealing problems. Many of them are VERY poorly attached and supported.

For all the rest of the lights that you can get working, clean the contacts and coat with dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:30 AM   #21
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Preventing leaks

Someone has already mentioned the vinyl strip that is turning brown which runs all along the side of your coach near the roof. If all you have to do with that strip is cosmetic, you are lucky indeed. But examine it carefully over its entire length. If you find even ONE place where there appears to be something causing a “bump” from under the vinyl strip, water is leaking behind it. The worst part of that is that the water can enter at one end of the strip, and travel all the way to the other end. The bump that you see is a totally corroded screw which has backed out. The fasteners under that strip are critical to the structural integrity of the WOOD components of the structure. The overall structure of your coach is a metal semi-monocoque welded “cage”. The metal cage is very sturdy, but you need the wood to be sturdy, also. Examine your vinyl strip closely. If you see any of those bumps, let me know, and I’ll tell you your options. If you have no bumps, reseal that strip carefully and soon! Then consider yourself very lucky.

But the most difficult repair you may ever have to make is to replace rotted wood in your coach. The rot is caused most frequently by leaks. You’ve already been given good advice about proactively seeking out all possible leak targets on your roof. Pay particular attention to your shower skylight and vent for your fridge. The seals on both those areas are poorly designed from the get-go. When you get to resealing them, my experience has been that reinforcing those areas before resealing them is a very prudent proactive approach to preventing serious leaks there. When you get to that part, let me know and I’ll send you pix of what I’ve done there.
You’re going to love the coach!
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:47 PM   #22
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Thanks, ahicks & Vanwill. I see what you guys are talking about now. I'll move that screw cover molding way up the list. Also thanks for the clearance light advice.

Things aren't progressing much today. I'll fill the FW tank soon and see if it holds.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:40 PM   #23
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When looking for water leaks, gobs of silicone is likely where I should start. All of the other compartments are clean. This must have been leaking for a long time.
Attachment 74409
Going to need to yank the tank and take it to a plastic welder. It's very tight at the exit on the door side, but with the hatch seals removed,it should come out.
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Old 10-12-2014, 02:43 PM   #24
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Awesome project! I can relate to the constant awareness when it comes to watching for problems that need attention. It took me a year or better to catch up on all the sometimes way past due maintenance on ours. Now though, I don't believe ongoing maintenance is much worse than one that many years newer or that might have set me back many more dollars!

I'd be suspicious of silicone gob jobs as well.

I notice in your pics a lot of that browned vinyl screw cover. On our first coach (93 HR) I tracked down and replaced every inch of that molding to make it look right. It was a big improvement for sure, but it was time consuming, hard on my hands when working it around corners, and naturally, expensive! This second one (the one we have now) was just starting to do that browning thing when we got it. Using lesson learned from previous coach, I started looking for options, and finding them to be slim, decided to tape off and paint a couple areas and just watch. 4 years later, still looking great. No flaking or problems of any sort. I just used cheap rattle can paint that seemed to match really well, and it still does. Have recently used the same paint on some other yellowed plastic that seemed to be in good shape yet, other than the discoloring. FWIW, -Al
Where can I find the vinyl screw cover material? Thanks
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Old 10-12-2014, 03:38 PM   #25
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This has been a while now, maybe 4-5 years? It's a pretty good sized place, but older. They've been in the RV business a LONG time. They USED to be an HR dealer, but I was left with the impression they still had connections that would allow them to get about anything you wanted for an HR, as long as it was available in Indiana...

MI RVDealers,Warren,new Michigan,Metro Detroit, pop-ups Catalina Travel Trailer RV Class A, Dealer, Used, Parts,Service,specials,sale,rebates yr end

Note there's 2 different types of mldg., or at least there was on mine. The part that snaps over the mldg is about the same on both, but the "reach" or "leg" on the other side was short or long, depending on location.
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:33 PM   #26
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I just typed up a reply to this thread and hit something on the keyboard and poof....it has to do with Toshiba and not irv2.
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:47 PM   #27
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93 Dynasty Shakedown

sam60 love you project I notice from your pictures and posts there is some fading. I purchased a 1996 Allegro 3 years ago it was a 10 on the inside but the outside was a 5 maybe , I did some touch painting on the bumpers and on the back. I was considering a complete repaint but I discovered Zep wet look floor wax. I completely scrubber the entire coach with Bar keepers friend with a abrasive pad and removed all oxidation. Then applied the Zep with a microfiber cloth in very thin coats it tock 5 coats but it made it shine like new. It even made the tail lights and clearance lights that were faded look new. I have had the Allegro for 3 years now and last mo. I refreshed the Zep with another coat. I hope your project goes well it appears you taking your time and doing it right Dynasty is a fine coach. Keep them shining
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Old 10-31-2014, 10:04 PM   #28
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sam60 love you project I notice from your pictures and posts there is some fading. I purchased a 1996 Allegro 3 years ago it was a 10 on the inside but the outside was a 5 maybe , I did some touch painting on the bumpers and on the back. I was considering a complete repaint but I discovered Zep wet look floor wax. I completely scrubber the entire coach with Bar keepers friend with a abrasive pad and removed all oxidation. Then applied the Zep with a microfiber cloth in very thin coats it tock 5 coats but it made it shine like new. It even made the tail lights and clearance lights that were faded look new. I have had the Allegro for 3 years now and last mo. I refreshed the Zep with another coat. I hope your project goes well it appears you taking your time and doing it right Dynasty is a fine coach. Keep them shining
Thanks for your advice bakerman! Yes the exterior needs some serious attention. I am working on the functional systems now and will tackle the cosmetics later, but your advice and response are greatly appreciated! I found a local guy that is great with RV generators and will be here Sunday to finish his repairs, he says it will run and power well. It was goop in the filter/regulator and bad choke thermistor thing.

I plan to head up a (slight) hill and test the exhaust brake after that.
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