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Old 07-10-2012, 07:54 PM   #1
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93 PaceArrow 36' - Braking concern

Hello all,

Looking for a little advice/help in regards to a braking issue I'm having with my MH. From what I can tell there is an overheating issue affecting the brake fluid. When stuck in traffic or when using the brakes quite often, I tend to lose brake pedal pressure.

In the front left wheel well area is the brake master cylinder, which happens to be next to the exhaust manifold. Wrapped the master cylinder with heat shield tape, which helped but wondering if there is additional things I can do to totally eliminate this problem.

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:34 PM   #2
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You might try this product http://www.lizardskin.com/ or possibly install a fan to push/pull heat away from the reservoir
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:10 PM   #3
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How old is the master cylinder ? Its a possibility that its failing and the heat is making the issue more pronounced. It does have Hydroboost brakes so you may be developing an issue with that also. There are thousands of those chassis around, I've got one.. never experienced or heard of such a problem being heat related. Before you drive yourself nuts, I'd take it to a shop and let them check it out.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #4
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How old is your brake FLUID?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it absorbs water over time. If I'm not mistaken, this can play heck with your hydraulics at high temperatures. The water boils at a lower temp than the brake fluid, and the bubbles act just like air in the lines, causing mushiness.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
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How old is your brake FLUID?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it absorbs water over time. If I'm not mistaken, this can play heck with your hydraulics at high temperatures.
excellent point chief...I thought it myself, but didn't type it... the "blond moments" are hitting me closer and closer together all the time.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:50 AM   #6
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are your wheels getting hot you may have sticking calipers?ford recomends lubeing brake slides every fifteen thousand miles on my 94 good luck
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:23 PM   #7
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Hi Proman and Welcome to the Forum!

Flush out that old, moisture ridden fluid with fresh DOT3. You should be good to go.

I'm not sure I would wrap the master cylinder as that could also hold heat in. Constructing some shielding would be better - IMHO.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:38 PM   #8
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Excellent Ideas ALL ... thank you very much !!! I'll run the MH down to the local Les Schwab and see if they'll do a complete fluid change for me & also check (lube) the calipers as 1skatingrin suggested. Greatly appreciate the insight. We'll see if those items resolve the problem.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:43 PM   #9
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This is what came out of my brake master cylinder reservoir,


DOT 3 boils at 401 deg. DOT 4 at 446 deg. so I went with the DOT 4
Also when I checked my brake pump reservoir it was not red like the Dextron II the book called for but sort of light pink, we think someone had mixed brake fluid in where the trans fluid should of been used, I drained it out from the pump and hoses and replaced it and my power steering fluid with Valvolene DEX/MERC, better braking and quieter easier steering.
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:36 PM   #10
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Brake f luid should be flushed every 2 years. The problem you are describing is the exact same problem that broight on the whole Workhorse brake problem. Moisture in the brake fluid. In the WH the pistone in the caliper wouldswell from moisture and not slide back in the piston. I am an old hand at brake fluid. My '89 Ford had the problem back on '91 and my mechanic at that time filled me in on the fluid absorbing water. At high temps the water will turn into vapor and you can compress a vapor but not a liquid. There is a thing called "Speed Bleeder" that replaces the bleeder screw in each wheel cylinder and makes flushing and bleeding brakes a 1 man job. With my son helping I can flush the entire brake system in about 15 minutes. The old fluid will be very dark in color and the new is crystal clear. I think "OEMY" on here sells them at a good price. Most manufactuers do not redcommend going to DOT 4 because it is made for a different purpose.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:19 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=bsinmich;1243167]There is a thing called "Speed Bleeder" that replaces the bleeder screw in each wheel cylinder and makes flushing and bleeding brakes a 1 man job. With my son helping I can flush the entire brake system in about 15 minutes.QUOTE]

I have the speed bleeders on all my other vehicles, they are great, even had them on my boat trailer and 24' race trailer, but I can't find them anywhere to match the bleed screw threads and length on my Oshkosh chassis,

When we did the rears on mine we were joking about texting me when to pump and hold because I could not hear him way back there underneath it, but with a lot of yelling back and forth we got it done.
From what I've read DOT 3 & 4 are compatible with each other, one just has a higher boiling point, DOT 5 is the silicone based fluid that you do NOT want to use because it does not absorb water and separates, but it does not eat the paint so they use it for motorcycles, and race cars where the fluid is changed often anyway, it as a 500 deg. boiling point
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
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How old is your brake FLUID?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it absorbs water over time. If I'm not mistaken, this can play heck with your hydraulics at high temperatures. The water boils at a lower temp than the brake fluid, and the bubbles act just like air in the lines, causing mushiness.
Good call on this one bud!.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:28 PM   #13
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After taking the MH into Les Schwab and $1700 later (OUCH) --- all is good. Initial diagnosis = Right Rear pads (metal on metal), Left Rear pads (disintegrated), Front pads (white hot spots) & heat stress fractures on the rotors. Solution = complete replacement of all rotors, calipers, pads & new fluid ... I'm back in the saddle again. Let's see what happens this weekend. Thanks for all the advise everyone.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:00 PM   #14
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The price sounds very good parts alone cost me $800 for me to do it
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