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Old 09-18-2016, 08:45 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by DeOrellana View Post
If the cooling system was really filthy, it may need more than one flush. When I took my engine apart, I noticed that there was sludge at the bottom of the block that hadn't come out with flushes and blocked the main block drains. Not much heat is generated down low in the block, but if water isn't circulating it can't cool. There are also a number of products on the market that you can put in your cooling system to help dissolve the sludge while you drive. You put them in, drive for a while, then flush. Also, check the fan clutch to make sure it's engaging as it should.
I thought the same thing about flushing again but, was running out of time to get packed up for our trip. The flush did say for a better flush, use the engine for 6 hours then let cool down, and flush till clear. By the time I was done, it was coming out clear both at the top of the radiator and at the petcock on the bottom. I'd hate to pull the radiator if not needed
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1989 Champion LaSalle 34' 454 ci always doing something to it
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:04 AM   #30
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I had a 454 in a 96 Fleetwood that overheated. I cured it with a rebuilt radiator that had 3 rows of fins vs the old 2 rows. Cured it for good.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:18 AM   #31
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fan clutch

how does one check to see if the fan clutch is working properly? It does roar pretty loud when starting up and, does seem to quiet down once moving down the road.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:23 AM   #32
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I bought a #30 container of 134a at Sam's Club a couple of days ago for less than $70.
When I flush a cooling system I pull the pipe plugs out of the block. They are usually blocked with crud and have to opened up with a screwdriver to get the block to drain. I then use the tapered brass nozzle that is not adjustable in the hole to back flush it. You would be surprised how much more junk comes out.
I drilled and tapped a hole just before the thermostat in the intake manifold for an 1/8" pipe electric sender for an aftermarket temperature gauge.
If you don't hear the fan engage going down the road that could be good or bad. Either the engine is not getting over 195 degrees or the fan clutch is bad. An accurate temperature gauge will determine this.
If you need a fan clutch Auto Zone sells a heavy duty one that normally you have to order that works very good and a lot less money than an OE, which is no longer available.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:12 PM   #33
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Pipe plugs

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Originally Posted by leadman View Post
I bought a #30 container of 134a at Sam's Club a couple of days ago for less than $70.
When I flush a cooling system I pull the pipe plugs out of the block. They are usually blocked with crud and have to opened up with a screwdriver to get the block to drain. I then use the tapered brass nozzle that is not adjustable in the hole to back flush it. You would be surprised how much more junk comes out.
I drilled and tapped a hole just before the thermostat in the intake manifold for an 1/8" pipe electric sender for an aftermarket temperature gauge.
If you don't hear the fan engage going down the road that could be good or bad. Either the engine is not getting over 195 degrees or the fan clutch is bad. An accurate temperature gauge will determine this.
If you need a fan clutch Auto Zone sells a heavy duty one that normally you have to order that works very good and a lot less money than an OE, which is no longer available.
where are those pipe plugs?
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:34 PM   #34
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Over Heating

Maybe I should start a new thread about the cooling system?? Well, today we left out of Thomson Causeway in Thomson, IL. on the Mississippi River. What a beautiful Army Corps of Engineers campground, long level concrete pads and no cracks either, electric hook ups only, but still worth it. We had to learn to be careful with all our tanks. Well anyways, we got 30 minutes out and the temp gauge started taking off to the red, got it to the side of the road within a few seconds and shut it down. We heard the hissing sound underneath rather than up front by the radiator so I looked underneath the right front wheel area and it was wet with coolant, at first I thought I blew a freeze plug out but soon realized it was one of the heater hoses the tee in from the front heater hose and head to the back heater which is under the bed. Well its a good thing that I had just flushed this thing and had cut a tee into the heater hose for a garden hose hookup. I ended up taking that out and by passed the rear heater with the garden hose tee. I let it cool down some and added a gallon of premixed coolant and a gallon of water that we keep underneath. Not sure if it was filled like it should be, being that we were on the side of a country road really leaning to the right side of the coach and, where the fill spout on the radiator is. On the way we went again watching the gage constantly. Our phones said it was 89 degrees and, the gage would move up and down from 1/3 to just about half way on the gage and, that was with running the a/c fans too. I noticed that if I would go between 50-55 the temp would be about 1/3 but if I push up to 60-65 it would start climbing towards halfway so, I would back off even though I want to get this thing home. Looks like I'm going to do a pressure test, then pull the radiator for maybe a heavier duty one. Not going to worry about this again. All in all thank God we made it home
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:27 PM   #35
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anyone able to tell me what pressure cap you have on your 89 big block chevys?
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:22 PM   #36
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15 lb pressure cap
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:37 AM   #37
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Thankyou
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:39 AM   #38
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15psi here as well......94 tbi.
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:38 AM   #39
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going to start pulling everything apart to get the radiator out today and, noticed that there are two lines coming from under the a/c condenser and, go into the bottom two rows of it. They are running around 190 degrees and, now thinking that the bottom of the condenser is the oil cooler. Guess I can't get rid of the condenser even if I wanted too now. Was able to get the temp gun pointed at the tanks on the radiator, temps were from the 190's on one side to 206 on the other side. This was on high idle and temp gage just below the halfway mark.
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:30 PM   #40
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refrigerant capacity

well, in my previous post I was going to pull everything out but, shoulder surgery took priority. Today I thought, why not put some refrigerant in the system to see if it holds pressure and, maybe even blow some cold air. I had some cans of 134a laying around so I added 48 oz, I read it takes 52 (3.25lbs)on one post and another said 2.75 lbs. No where can I find the capacity on this thing. As of now the compressor is just engaging off and on. I have only the cheap gauge on a hose that comes with a charge kit but, it does seem to be holding pressure. Did I put too much in or not enough? BTW, I see no signs of leakage at the compressor or hoses, cannot see the back side of the condenser
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:28 PM   #41
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Likely just seeped out so good enough for now.

If just cycling but not cold then just enough to allow compressor to run but compressor draws down to below trip point.

Sams has the large jugs for reasonable price too.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:34 PM   #42
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Likely just seeped out so good enough for now.

If just cycling but not cold then just enough to allow compressor to run but compressor draws down to below trip point.

Sams has the large jugs for reasonable price too.
I have 6 12oz cans in there, 72oz. ??? Seams too much, I guess
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