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Old 10-06-2016, 08:14 PM   #57
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Yup, expansion valve system with looks like a tertiary switch on the high side, the switch will cycle the clutch on low or high pressures.

From experience, 134A in a static system should most likely be somewhere around 90-100 psi in a system at an ambient temp of around 80-85 deg F.

if it is considerably higher or lower it indicates over/under charged system.

Look forward to seeing operating pressures with a gauge set.
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:29 PM   #58
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more parts

Here is the fan control, but the other switch I don't know
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1989 Champion LaSalle 34' 454 ci always doing something to it
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:31 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roosters 67 View Post
Yup, expansion valve system with looks like a tertiary switch on the high side, the switch will cycle the clutch on low or high pressures.

From experience, 134A in a static system should most likely be somewhere around 90-100 psi in a system at an ambient temp of around 80-85 deg F.

if it is considerably higher or lower it indicates over/under charged system.

Look forward to seeing operating pressures with a gauge set.
did I hurt the system charging on the high side?
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1989 Champion LaSalle 34' 454 ci always doing something to it
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:41 PM   #60
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Not likely to cause damage but risky because if the system was running you could have exploded the can you were charging from.

Rule is only charge on low side.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:48 AM   #61
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Should not be able to charge on the high side as pressure is greater than that in the can and no gas flows after enough is there for compressor to operate.

Stop until you get a manifold.

Your unknown in bottom photo looks like a breaker and relay and they certainly do not look factory.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:15 PM   #62
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Should not be able to charge on the high side as pressure is greater than that in the can and no gas flows after enough is there for compressor to operate.

Stop until you get a manifold.

Your unknown in bottom photo looks like a breaker and relay and they certainly do not look factory.
If the system was empty why would you not be able to add freon? The breaker and relay are to turn on the fans, they are connected to the pressure switch and that other electrical box in the picture. I will get the manifold tomorrow and take some pictures
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:41 PM   #63
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Charging

Here's what that article said concerning charging the a/c system: Next, you need to locate the service fittings on the A/C system. There are two: a LOW side fitting and a HIGH side fitting. The LOW side fitting is usually located on the suction hose or line that goes from the accumulator to the compressor. The HIGH side fitting is located on the line that goes from the compressor to the condenser. If you look at the picture, the left port is the side the runs down to the accumulator which he said is low side, and the right side goes to the top of the condenser, so who's correct?
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:42 PM   #64
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picture's sideways
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:42 PM   #65
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If the system was empty why would you not be able to add freon? The breaker and relay are to turn on the fans, they are connected to the pressure switch and that other electrical box in the picture. I will get the manifold tomorrow and take some pictures
You can easily ADD to an empty system into either port up to the point the system pressure is greater than the can pressure.

If compressor working and proper pressure the can could explode but me thinks most consumer products may have a check valve to prevent that.

The fan wiring does not look good and it looks like a Disney productiin... ( mickey mouse job).

Been long time since been that deep but usually the electric fans that ate not controlled directly by the chassis computer are controlled via the clutch on the compressor so anytime the compressor is running the fan is operating.

The "tell" is placement of a cat breaker far away from power source and with power close to ground.

Trace the wires back and they may go to the pressure switch as it is often in series with the compressor clutch.

If you add enough coolant or R134 to operate properly and it still short cycles and the manifold shows good pressure and low side above switch point the funny wiring may be a clue to what some po may have done to get around something else that is broken.

There is not much to the system so tracing out the wiring and verifying it should be on the short list.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:15 PM   #66
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You can easily ADD to an empty system into either port up to the point the system pressure is greater than the can pressure.

If compressor working and proper pressure the can could explode but me thinks most consumer products may have a check valve to prevent that.

The fan wiring does not look good and it looks like a Disney productiin... ( mickey mouse job).

Been long time since been that deep but usually the electric fans that ate not controlled directly by the chassis computer are controlled via the clutch on the compressor so anytime the compressor is running the fan is operating.

The "tell" is placement of a cat breaker far away from power source and with power close to ground.

Trace the wires back and they may go to the pressure switch as it is often in series with the compressor clutch.

If you add enough coolant or R134 to operate properly and it still short cycles and the manifold shows good pressure and low side above switch point the funny wiring may be a clue to what some po may have done to get around something else that is broken.

There is not much to the system so tracing out the wiring and verifying it should be on the short list.
as I said, the fan wiring does go to that one and only pressure switch, I will check to see that it ties in with the compressor clutch, I really don't think the wiring has been altered, that's the way some things on this old thing were wired up, not pretty.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:42 AM   #67
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The silver box in your first picture might be the cruise control module. The picture of the a/c ports shows the small R12 connection on the low side, the other is a 134a port. apparently someone has probably changed this over to 134a. When I converted mine to 134a I bought the 134a connections that screw on to the R12 ports.
When you get it cooling like you want it would be good to wrap the expansion valve with insulation. The normal product used for this come in a roll and it is cork and a black tar like substance. Even fiberglass insulation works. The expansion valve will work better and also there will be no condensation dripping off the expansion valves and metal part of the lines inside your coach.
As far as the fan wiring I would rather see a waterproof fuse holder out there than the circuit breaker. Mine had similar wiring that appeared to be factory. From the quality of the wiring in the rest of my coach this is standard quality.
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:11 PM   #68
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silve box

Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman View Post
The silver box in your first picture might be the cruise control module. The picture of the a/c ports shows the small R12 connection on the low side, the other is a 134a port. apparently someone has probably changed this over to 134a. When I converted mine to 134a I bought the 134a connections that screw on to the R12 ports.
When you get it cooling like you want it would be good to wrap the expansion valve with insulation. The normal product used for this come in a roll and it is cork and a black tar like substance. Even fiberglass insulation works. The expansion valve will work better and also there will be no condensation dripping off the expansion valves and metal part of the lines inside your coach.
As far as the fan wiring I would rather see a waterproof fuse holder out there than the circuit breaker. Mine had similar wiring that appeared to be factory. From the quality of the wiring in the rest of my coach this is standard quality.
The silver box ties in to the pressure switch and the fan relay. I'm the one that put the adapter on to charge the system. I am being told here that the low side is not the line with the accumulator on it. The article I posted earlier says the high side goes into the condenser, and on mine it does not have the little can with the site glass on it, so which is it? Does anyone know for sure? Anyways, here's a pic of the manifold gages with the engine not running. 53 psi and 90
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:46 PM   #69
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Gages

With engine running but, clutch cycling off and on.. 30psi and 70
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:28 AM   #70
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Looking at the pictures again you have the adapter on the high side. There is a similar adapter made for the low side. The adapters are machined differently so the manifold red hose goes on the high side, the blue hose on the low side, which is the larger of the 2 hoses and right now has no adapter on it.
I missed it before but those hose fitting are like mine. They has shut-off valves built in to them. On the side opposite the where the hoses hook up take the metal caps off and you will see a 1/4" square post. Turn these in several turns and see if the pressures change. Turned all the way in clockwise they block off the flow of freon to the lines, all the way counter-clockwise they block off the Schrader ports.
Your low side reading is too high for your reading on the high side. Low side would be ok if high side read around 250 or so. See what they read after opening the valves.
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