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Old 10-09-2016, 05:00 PM   #71
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adapters

Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman View Post
Looking at the pictures again you have the adapter on the high side. There is a similar adapter made for the low side. The adapters are machined differently so the manifold red hose goes on the high side, the blue hose on the low side, which is the larger of the 2 hoses and right now has no adapter on it.
I missed it before but those hose fitting are like mine. They has shut-off valves built in to them. On the side opposite the where the hoses hook up take the metal caps off and you will see a 1/4" square post. Turn these in several turns and see if the pressures change. Turned all the way in clockwise they block off the flow of freon to the lines, all the way counter-clockwise they block off the Schrader ports.
Your low side reading is too high for your reading on the high side. Low side would be ok if high side read around 250 or so. See what they read after opening the valves.
none of the other adapters have a schrader valve in them, they go straight on thru, yes adapter is/was on the high side. The manifold set has ends that screw on the old r12 threads
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:16 AM   #72
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If you did open the valves and got those pressures with as much refrigerant in the system as you say you put in something is wrong. Your hand can help you find the problem by feeling the different parts. The small hose coming out of the compressor when it is running should be too hot to be comfortable to touch. If this is so go to the drier that has the sight glass in it. It should be warm but cooler than the hose on the compressor. Then go to the small hose on the expansion valve in the cab. It should be warm, the fitting that goes into the evaporator, which is in the same box as the heater core, should be cold. This is where the refrigerant is forced thru an orifice and gets cold. If this is cold you're good. If not then find the tiny copper line that is attached to it and either put it in ice water or spray it with refrigerant while watching the gauges. This should cause a wide swing in the reading. If no to little response either the expansion valve is bad or the compressor is probably shot, or no refrigerant.
Before I would pull it apart I would hook the system to a vacuum pump and evacuate it then see if it held vacuum for at least a 1/2 hour without the needles on the gauges climbing. If it does I would dump a can of refrigerant in it and check for leaks with an electronic leak detector. If no leaks continue charging the system with refrigerant. If the hi side does not climb as refrigerant is put in to at least 200# as most of the bubbles in the drier sight glass disappear and the line going to the evaporator was not getting cold and no cold air coming out of the ducts I would stop. Time to replace the compressor, expansion valve, drier, oil, and rubber lines.
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Old 10-10-2016, 01:55 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaycoEagle10 View Post
If you're determined to remove that factory engine A/C then I'd do it. Removing it has advantages.

Less weight for vehicle to lug around. At least 150#.

No old Freon to mess with or pump seal conversion to new style and all the new parts. Saved $1000+ and time to install and test system.

One thing you might need is a Idler Pulley setup that's custom made, to replace the pump pulley once removed if your engine doesn't show anything to replace a shorter belt that's needed. Some you can cut A/C pump belt and you're GTG without any worries. All depends on factory design.

Radiator gets clean air instead of hot A/C air.

Mileage will go up 2-3 mpg.

One thing I would do is keep or replace with 1-large or 2-twin electric fans to help with cooling when hitting hills or traffic. You can use toggle switches to trip fan(s) when temp starts rising. This way you don't rely on a sensor, that could go out, or not come on at correct times.

Usually fans aren't needed once going 40-45mph as air will be circulating well at and above these speeds to cool radiator.
A/C combined with the cab heater would be probably on the order of 50 to 75 lbs heaver if that, certainly not any 150 lbs. No change in fuel economy for a not working unit. The weight difference is just not enough to matter.

The unit in front of the radiator is the CONDENSER, not the evaporator, which is the cooling coils in the box inside.

Charles
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:04 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman View Post
If you did open the valves and got those pressures with as much refrigerant in the system as you say you put in something is wrong. Your hand can help you find the problem by feeling the different parts. The small hose coming out of the compressor when it is running should be too hot to be comfortable to touch. If this is so go to the drier that has the sight glass in it. It should be warm but cooler than the hose on the compressor. Then go to the small hose on the expansion valve in the cab. It should be warm, the fitting that goes into the evaporator, which is in the same box as the heater core, should be cold. This is where the refrigerant is forced thru an orifice and gets cold. If this is cold you're good. If not then find the tiny copper line that is attached to it and either put it in ice water or spray it with refrigerant while watching the gauges. This should cause a wide swing in the reading. If no to little response either the expansion valve is bad or the compressor is probably shot, or no refrigerant.
Before I would pull it apart I would hook the system to a vacuum pump and evacuate it then see if it held vacuum for at least a 1/2 hour without the needles on the gauges climbing. If it does I would dump a can of refrigerant in it and check for leaks with an electronic leak detector. If no leaks continue charging the system with refrigerant. If the hi side does not climb as refrigerant is put in to at least 200# as most of the bubbles in the drier sight glass disappear and the line going to the evaporator was not getting cold and no cold air coming out of the ducts I would stop. Time to replace the compressor, expansion valve, drier, oil, and rubber lines.
just for fun, I wired the compressor directly to the battery to see if it would pump and then blow cool air, the air out the vents was about ambient maybe 60 degrees, none of the lines were cool anywhere. I hot wired the fans also as they wouldn't kick in either when I turned on the air. The pressures were really low, 20 on the low side and maybe 50 on the high side. I still see no signs of a leak anywhere either. Either I replace all the parts or throw the thing out. While I was in the doghouse I really believe my fan clutch is bad, grabbing the fan it wobbles and for as hot as it was it should have been moving some air. What about the pressure switch and how would I know which one to buy?
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:54 AM   #75
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Couple things...

Fan clutch wobble of any kind destroys the water pump so get a pressure tester loaned out and test under pressure and see if any water seeps out of water pump.

If not change clutch if so water pump too.

Do not bypass the pressure switch for more than a few seconds as compressor can be blown up that way.

Someone mentioned turning screws to allow manifold use.

On the back of your compressor do the hoses attach direct or is there a block with a bolt like stud protruding out?

Those are flow valves and can be used to shut hoses off to compressor to allow changing without loss of gas and also shut off the access ports.

They need to be fully counter clockwise but manifold foes not work there.

Turn in just a bit then manifold works.

Too much and hose gets blocked.

Post a photo of back of compressor if you have one
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:43 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Couple things...

Fan clutch wobble of any kind destroys the water pump so get a pressure tester loaned out and test under pressure and see if any water seeps out of water pump.

If not change clutch if so water pump too.

Do not bypass the pressure switch for more than a few seconds as compressor can be blown up that way.

Someone mentioned turning screws to allow manifold use.

On the back of your compressor do the hoses attach direct or is there a block with a bolt like stud protruding out?

Those are flow valves and can be used to shut hoses off to compressor to allow changing without loss of gas and also shut off the access ports.

They need to be fully counter clockwise but manifold foes not work there.

Turn in just a bit then manifold works.

Too much and hose gets blocked.

Post a photo of back of compressor if you have one
I have a new fan clutch coming in tomorrow, water pump is sitting in the garage. I was waiting to see if I would leave the a/c intact before I pull the radiator to have it possibly re-cored and while I'm in there new water pump and hoses. I'm leaning to getting the dash a/c working now if I can with help get this back in working order. I didn't bypass the pressure switch that I know of, just wired up the fans and the compressor direct. Haven't had a chance to try the ice water yet.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:20 PM   #77
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compressor

here's the back of the compressor
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:52 AM   #78
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Wiring direct is bypassing safety switch unless you mean wiring that direct to battery...not sure but be certian the safety switch is on circuit.

Yes those valves are a shuttle type that can cause difficulty.

Imagine a long tube with a moving plug.

The service ports are located in a certian place as is the ports for compressor and hoses.

Reference your photo.

on right side is a cover that covers a stud with a 1/4 inch square drive, there are special ratchets for these but a 12 point socket or plain wrench works.

Looks like covers ate still there, they just unscrew.

When the stud is turned to the right all the way it shuts OFF the service ports.

Turn the studs to the left a couple turns all ports open.

Turn to left and hose port off.

This allows the access ports to be turned off to reduce leakage and it also allows the compressor to be removed without loosing the charge on the test of the system.

Given what your reporting try reseting the valves.

Turn both to right until stop then attach manifold.

Turn each to left maybe 1 turn and observe gages react.

Now start engine and see what it does.

You may need to turn the low side another turn to as low it to charge faster.

Large hose on bottom so it looks like high side I is high and lo side is low.

Older R12 had both same size and later had high side different from lo.

for now you can swap hoses on manifold but get the set of adaptors and do both correctly when finished.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:23 PM   #79
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My R-12 system is still working. I was able to tie up the A/C condenser coil and used zip ties to hold it parallel to the ground above my head while I was having my radiator recored. It's been awhile but I believe I tied it to the windshield wiper arms.
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