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Old 09-10-2016, 07:39 PM   #1
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A/C Removal

Since I have no intention of repairing my dash a/c on my 27 year old coach, when running the generator and one rooftop works fine, would I benefit on engine cooling if I remove the evap coil and electric fans in front of the radiator?
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:14 AM   #2
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Deano56,

No idea.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:32 AM   #3
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There may be a little benefit but huge loss in resale value.

You may take the electric fan and determine if it only works with ac or if also works without ac.

If only works with ac you could look for a temperature sensor that can be places somewhere, visit an appliance repair parts supply and see what they have as yiu may find a simple temperature switch that can be placed against the tank of your radiator or hose to control a relay for the fan.

Just be sure they are clean of bugs and the fins are not bent up.

Come resale time having an ac unit in the unit will increase the value a bit as the next guy may have the skill set to easily fix it.
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:11 PM   #4
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There may be a little benefit but huge loss in resale value.

You may take the electric fan and determine if it only works with ac or if also works without ac.

If only works with ac you could look for a temperature sensor that can be places somewhere, visit an appliance repair parts supply and see what they have as yiu may find a simple temperature switch that can be placed against the tank of your radiator or hose to control a relay for the fan.

Just be sure they are clean of bugs and the fins are not bent up.

Come resale time having an ac unit in the unit will increase the value a bit as the next guy may have the skill set to easily fix it.
Resale value is the farthest thing from my mind on a unit this old, you want a/c, then run the rooftop and save some mpg. Not sure which causes more gas consumption. When we looked a buying a older coach 3 years ago, most all of them had no working dash a/c. Electric fans for a/c only on this rig
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:14 PM   #5
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Removing anything blocking your radiator can only help with engine cooling!
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:33 PM   #6
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Sorry to jump on this, I don't have the answer.
I'm in the UK and the dash A/C doesn't work on my 94 Southwind on a Chevy chassis. I was wondering the same thing as it rarely gets above 70 over here. Cracking the drivers window an inch has the same effect.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:08 PM   #7
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If you're determined to remove that factory engine A/C then I'd do it. Removing it has advantages.

Less weight for vehicle to lug around. At least 150#.

No old Freon to mess with or pump seal conversion to new style and all the new parts. Saved $1000+ and time to install and test system.

One thing you might need is a Idler Pulley setup that's custom made, to replace the pump pulley once removed if your engine doesn't show anything to replace a shorter belt that's needed. Some you can cut A/C pump belt and you're GTG without any worries. All depends on factory design.

Radiator gets clean air instead of hot A/C air.

Mileage will go up 2-3 mpg.

One thing I would do is keep or replace with 1-large or 2-twin electric fans to help with cooling when hitting hills or traffic. You can use toggle switches to trip fan(s) when temp starts rising. This way you don't rely on a sensor, that could go out, or not come on at correct times.

Usually fans aren't needed once going 40-45mph as air will be circulating well at and above these speeds to cool radiator.
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:21 PM   #8
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If you're determined to remove that factory engine A/C then I'd do it. Removing it has advantages.

Less weight for vehicle to lug around. At least 150#.

No old Freon to mess with or pump seal conversion to new style and all the new parts. Saved $1000+ and time to install and test system.

One thing you might need is a Idler Pulley setup that's custom made, to replace the pump pulley once removed if your engine doesn't show anything to replace a shorter belt that's needed. Some you can cut A/C pump belt and you're GTG without any worries. All depends on factory design.

Radiator gets clean air instead of hot A/C air.

Mileage will go up 2-3 mpg.

One thing I would do is keep or replace with 1-large or 2-twin electric fans to help with cooling when hitting hills or traffic. You can use toggle switches to trip fan(s) when temp starts rising. This way you don't rely on a sensor, that could go out, or not come on at correct times.

Usually fans aren't needed once going 40-45mph as air will be circulating well at and above these speeds to cool radiator.
there's no freon as I cracked open a line tonight, for now is just taking everything in front of the radiator out. I plan on keeping all the parts in tack. 2 mpg would be a stretch in my opinion, even if I ran the a/c compared to no a/c. Remember this was a non working a/c unit. If it worked I might consider keeping it.
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:35 AM   #9
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Unless the condenser fins are clogged I would leave it in place. You could add a switch to run the electric fans when idling in traffic, but otherwise I doubt you will see much of a change in engine cooling. I've done this on a couple of cars in Los Angeles traffic and didn't notice any change. Electric fans on while idling do help.

If you do remove it, seal all the pipe ends to avoid dirt getting in the system should you or a subsequent owner ever decide to put it back.
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:21 AM   #10
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Unless the condenser fins are clogged I would leave it in place. You could add a switch to run the electric fans when idling in traffic, but otherwise I doubt you will see much of a change in engine cooling. I've done this on a couple of cars in Los Angeles traffic and didn't notice any change. Electric fans on while idling do help.

If you do remove it, seal all the pipe ends to avoid dirt getting in the system should you or a subsequent owner ever decide to put it back.
I did run the 2 fans yesterday after I flushed the cooling system, the gauge seemed to stay in the same position even with the fans on? With the hot days we had here in Illinois this summer, my temp gauge would be straight up, which is half way although no idea what the temp is, i need to bring an infrared gun home with me.BTW, I had power washed the condenser and radiator last year, wasn't all the bad.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:16 AM   #11
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I did run the 2 fans yesterday after I flushed the cooling system, the gauge seemed to stay in the same position even with the fans on? With the hot days we had here in Illinois this summer, my temp gauge would be straight up, which is half way although no idea what the temp is, i need to bring an infrared gun home with me.BTW, I had power washed the condenser and radiator last year, wasn't all the bad.
Sounds like you need to determine if it is running warm or not first. The infrared gun is a great tool for this - mine gets plenty of use. I start with checking the temperature at the inlet and outlet hoses of the radiator. Then I check the engine temperature at the temp sensor.

You can also take your temperature sensor out and put it together with a thermometer in water while you slowly heat it up next to the vehicle. Run wires to the the vehicle to gauge and ground, and that will allow you to determine what temperature the gauge is actually showing you. Make a little chart to keep in the vehicle that you can refer to. Straight up may mean cool, warm, or about to throw a head gasket.
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:07 PM   #12
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Sounds like you need to determine if it is running warm or not first. The infrared gun is a great tool for this - mine gets plenty of use. I start with checking the temperature at the inlet and outlet hoses of the radiator. Then I check the engine temperature at the temp sensor.

You can also take your temperature sensor out and put it together with a thermometer in water while you slowly heat it up next to the vehicle. Run wires to the the vehicle to gauge and ground, and that will allow you to determine what temperature the gauge is actually showing you. Make a little chart to keep in the vehicle that you can refer to. Straight up may mean cool, warm, or about to throw a head gasket.
are you talking about the temp sending unit? Not sure I have a temp sensor on this old thing, which I doubt I'll be taking either out. To me temps on the tanks at each end is always been good enough. Thing isn't running hot enough to throw a head gasket, I have done that years ago only it wasn't the gasket, more like the head itself. That thing started pinging bad, then lost power.
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Old 09-12-2016, 04:18 PM   #13
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are you talking about the temp sending unit? Not sure I have a temp sensor on this old thing, which I doubt I'll be taking either out. To me temps on the tanks at each end is always been good enough. Thing isn't running hot enough to throw a head gasket, I have done that years ago only it wasn't the gasket, more like the head itself. That thing started pinging bad, then lost power.
If you have a gauge, you have either an electric sending unit or heat capillary tube. My '89 454 has an electric sending unit on the engine. The sending unit is just a big thermistor encased in brass that changes resistance according to the surrounding temperature. If you want I'll see if I can get pics of it - my engine is out of the RV so no big deal. It's usually mounted in one of the intake manifold water passages. I just like to know what my gauge is telling me

Good to hear it's not running hot enough to blow a head gasket. Avoiding any major engine work is a good thing.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:30 PM   #14
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The temperature sender is probably in the left cylinder head above the exhaust manifold about mid-way. Have to be careful to get the correct sender if replacing it as on with too long a probe will be very close to the top side of the combustion chamber and give false readings.
I drilled and tapped my intake manifold just before the thermostat and installed and aftermarket gauge and sender. It tracks temperatures very well.
If you find that your fan clutch always seems to be engaged in warmer weather you may want to change to a 180' thermostat. My fan clutch engages at 195' and my engine had a195' thermostat so they were fighting each other. With the 180' thermostat the fan clutch engages rarely if I'm not towing on the freeway. The fan takes more gas than the a/c does. Mines was between 2 to 2 1/2 miles per gallon for then fan and less then 1/2 mpg for the a/c. My generator takes about .8 gals of gas an hour to run it with the roof unit on.
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