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Old 02-27-2016, 04:59 PM   #1
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Acme Cruise Control

I am taking a stab at getting my cruise control back in working order. I have a Acme model, none electronic with cables to the trans as well as to the carburetor. I downloaded the manual and so far tested the lever on the steering wheel, and all is functioning correctly there. It says to test the relay which I have not found yet, it says 2 blue and 2 red wires coming into/out of it. Can't see the brake switch up under the dash but, it's hard to see up in there. Has any of you worked on these and been successful getting it working?
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:11 PM   #2
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Isn't Acme the company the Coyote buys all his stuff to try and catch the Roadrunner? Good luck on your quest to repair the cruise control.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:09 PM   #3
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cannot find the relay so far, have to look more under the dash. Yes acme is the roadrunner show
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:35 AM   #4
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87 Holiday Rambler Imperial, not got mine working yet, best of luck. Still looking for the gas filter too!
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:49 PM   #5
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C/C

ok, took driver's seat off the base and pulled the front of the dash forward, after seeing the relay up under there. Two blues and two reds like stated. It says an ohm meter is needed but does not say what readings I am looking for or how to test. Anyone have an idea?
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Old 03-05-2016, 05:55 PM   #6
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http://trekdocs.com/ACMECruiseControl.pdf
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:30 PM   #7
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A four wire relay will have a 12 v (+) and (-) to energize the electric magnet. The other two wires are the switched ones by the relay's contacts. You can bench test the relay with a couple of test leads and a 12 v source.
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
A four wire relay will have a 12 v (+) and (-) to energize the electric magnet. The other two wires are the switched ones by the relay's contacts. You can bench test the relay with a couple of test leads and a 12 v source.
theres a magnet in that tiny relay? The thing is 1"x1/2"x3/4". Also do I test from red to blue on each end?
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:13 PM   #9
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I don't know the what the wire colors correspond to. Typically, most 12 v relays have the posts numbered. #30 is connected to 12 v (+), #87 is the output, #86 is the 12 v (+) 'trigger' voltage, #85 is the ground. Between #86 and #85 is a coil of copper wire around an iron core, creating a magnet when voltage is applied. The magnet pulls the contacts between #30 and #87 closed and completes the circuit.

12 v power applied to #86 and #85 should create a clicking sound as the contacts close. When the contacts close, power should then flow from #30 to #87.

Most 12 v automotive relays work this way, some special ones will actually trigger an open circuit when energized, but they are much more rare than the type I've described.
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:24 AM   #10
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testing relay

Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
I don't know the what the wire colors correspond to. Typically, most 12 v relays have the posts numbered. #30 is connected to 12 v (+), #87 is the output, #86 is the 12 v (+) 'trigger' voltage, #85 is the ground. Between #86 and #85 is a coil of copper wire around an iron core, creating a magnet when voltage is applied. The magnet pulls the contacts between #30 and #87 closed and completes the circuit.

12 v power applied to #86 and #85 should create a clicking sound as the contacts close. When the contacts close, power should then flow from #30 to #87.

Most 12 v automotive relays work this way, some special ones will actually trigger an open circuit when energized, but they are much more rare than the type I've described.
page 6 of the manual gives instructions how to test the relay. Doesn't say what I'm to look for in a value, other than hot, I assume that to mean open or closed in a certain position or mode. Once I have determined the relay is good then I will move on to the servo's vacuum reading, check the cable to trans and wires from c/c lever to servo. Hate crawling under there
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