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Old 08-17-2013, 12:48 PM   #1
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Alu roof

Hi All !


The aluminium roof has air zones on some places, do i need to screw it to the panel underneat ?

Enjoy rving!




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Old 08-17-2013, 01:35 PM   #2
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First you need to remove all the old seam sealer and then reseal. If while removing old seam screws come loose then replace and reseal. I did that with my old Allegro and took me longer to remove old then to reseal seams.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #3
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I'd use a heat gun and a putty knife to remove old caulk. Make sure all fastening under caulk are tight and holding. If not, remove fastener, put wood splints in hole, a dab of Gorilla glue, then refasten. Clean with acetone then re caulk using Dicor self-leveling caulk.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:18 AM   #4
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Thanks


Well the caulk is like chewinggum
Can a heatgun do miracles?
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:53 PM   #5
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Superball, I see nobody answered your question. The answer would be a definite no. You would be adding potential places for leaks to occur further down the road. The aluminum and the material(s) under it expand and contract at different rates as they warm and cool.

It does look like you're up for a resealing job. Those exposed screws should have been covered with that bead of sealant when the coach was built!
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #6
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Air zones

I think that you will find that those "air zones" are actually areas where the roof and the ceiling material have delaminated from one another, either from heat causing the glue to release or from water leaking into the interior, causing the separation. You will probably find corresponding areas loose on the ceiling material if you press on it with your hand. If they are sagging inside badly, your best repair will be from the inside (once you've repaired the roof leaks, if any, of course)
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knugent View Post
I think that you will find that those "air zones" are actually areas where the roof and the ceiling material have delaminated from one another, either from heat causing the glue to release or from water leaking into the interior, causing the separation.
There has to be structural support between the roof and ceiling panels, plus it leaves a void for insulation. If not the AC would be sagging from the factory.

Those seams are perfect for Eternabond. Once you get the old caulk off I'd use that and never have to deal with it again.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:49 AM   #8
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Thanks for your info,

There is no sagging inside .

Went to rv shop , they said to use Sikaflex®-252 1-C poly- urethane , would it be better than ethernabond?

Cheers

Jan
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:49 AM   #9
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Sikaflex is a really good sealant, far better than others generally used on RVs. Sikaflex excels because it grips better and flexes better than other caulks. I use it around the vents, plumbing vents, antenna.

But Eternabond is better. It's ideal for a seam like your wall to roof which will never be broken unless there is a very extreme problem. My motor home is a 1990 Holiday Rambler, aluminum sides and roof with Eternabond on all 4 sides of the roof. I've owned it for 10 years and it was far from new when I got it, from how the aluminum tape on the surface looked factory installed wouldn't surprise me. I've never had a leak and while it doesn't look like new it isn't lifting or showing any sign of deterioration that would require maintenance.

If you decide to use Eternabond one thought. If you don't use the rail around the rear I would remove it and cover the holes with Eternabond. I've found that my flat aluminum roof moves around a lot, it seems like the more I get on it and flex it around the intrusions the more I have to get on it, it's a catch 22. So I do everything I can to stay off it.
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