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Old 02-13-2012, 05:04 PM   #1
TRD
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Another round of questions

By now, I am sure everyone knows, but it is a 1989, P-30, Sun Clipper. For the past 5 years it was being used as a camper (stationary). When I bought it about a month ago, the previous owner lite the stove top, the oven, ran the furnace, and the water heater, so I know they worked.

After the purchase, I discovered a leak in the gas valve on the water heater, so I replaced it (the heater not the valve.

Now, I cannot get anything to work.

1. I have gas
2. When I turn on the surface unit, I cannot hear gas in any one of the 4
burner. Nor will they ignite when I try to manually light them.
3. I caanot get the furnace to ignite, the fan cycles, but no heat
4. My water heater will not ignite, (and this is the strange part) I hear gas flowing through the gas valve when the switch is set to -OFF. Bear in mind, the water heater is new. The gas valve will actually be cold to the touch and slightly frosted over, again when the switch is off.

The only thing that is different from when I bought the MH, well 2 things. The new water heater, but the other is he was using portable bottles of propane and I reconnect to the onboard tank.

I have cracked the line on the output side of the regulator and I have gas. On the stove, I have gas to the regulator under the stove top. Obviously, I have gas to the water heater, I can hear it. Have not checked the furnace. However, I feel the problem must be a central problem, since I saw all the items working.

Someone, anyone, everyone tell me where do I start?

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:18 PM   #2
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You might check and see if you have an LP gas leak detector and make sure it is on and working. That is, if the valve is still installed.
That's about the only thing I can think of to interrupt the flow of gas.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:56 PM   #3
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It has a leak detector. However, I haven't removed it from the wall. Is there suppost to be a valve behind it?

Thanks

Terry
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:34 PM   #4
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TRD

The valve would be at the propane tank. To me it sounds like gas is flowing and you needed to purge the air out. Also check where the add-on tank was connected be fore you bought it .




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Old 02-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #5
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mfire, the previous owner just disconnect the line from the tank (onboard) and set a propane bottle on the ground beside the MH. He used a standard propane bottle regulator and plumbed it into the MH gas line.

Terry
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:44 AM   #6
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If it's frosted, it sounds like propane is getting to the WH. My WH says: Before removing the control board, reseat all the connectors on it. Even if it is new, it doesn't mean something could have gotten past final inspection.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:27 PM   #7
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First step is to get the stove top burner working. Forget the furnace and water heater until the stove works. When you unhooked the water heater and changed the propane tank input you let air into the system. That air has to be purged out first. Turn the stove top burner on and leave it on to purge out the air. May take a minute or two before LP gas even gets to the stove top burner. However, thats all assuming the regulator at the main tank is working correctly (never, never allow full tank pressure to reach the appliances). The gas pressure at the appliance is greatly reduced from what it is at the tank (the difference is so great they use 2 stages of reduction hence the term 2 stage regulator). Be careful when doing this as you are releasing some gas into the air. Just keep trying to light the burner with a long barreled Propane Bar-B-Que lighter. It may try to light then go out as the air is forced out. Just keep at it until it will stay lit.

Once the stove top burner is working, most of the air will have been purged. However, the gas jets at the water heater and furnace are very small so it may require you to trial start both units many times before the remaining air in their gas lines is purged. You get the stove working first because of the small jet size.

The tank shut off valve has a safety feature built into it. If you open the valve to fast (resulting in excessive gas flow) it will go into a safety mode drastically reducing the gas flow. Shut the valve off; wait 1 minute; then turn it slowly back on. The safety mode is there to reduce gas prssure in the event a gas line is ruptured (such as a vehicle accident).


I hope the reason he used an external regulator was not because the onbaord regulator was defective.

Dave
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD View Post
4. My water heater will not ignite, (and this is the strange part) I hear gas flowing through the gas valve when the switch is set to -OFF. Bear in mind, the water heater is new. The gas valve will actually be cold to the touch and slightly frosted over, again when the switch is off.

The only thing that is different from when I bought the MH, well 2 things. The new water heater, but the other is he was using portable bottles of propane and I reconnect to the onboard tank.

I have cracked the line on the output side of the regulator and I have gas. On the stove, I have gas to the regulator under the stove top. Obviously, I have gas to the water heater, I can hear it. Have not checked the furnace. However, I feel the problem must be a central problem, since I saw all the items working.

Someone, anyone, everyone tell me where do I start?

Thanks,

Terry
Almost sound like the regulator on the tank is not working properly. That and the WH control board is bad. It should not flow gas with the switch in the "off" position. What happens when it is switched to "on"
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:34 PM   #9
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Abc's of diagnosis

First, isolate the variables
- Testing any problem in the real world is a lot like algebra; its a whole lot easier with only one variable. So always isolate the variables, divide and conquer.
In this case you changed two variables, so I would get my bbq propane tank out and hook it back up the way the previous owner had it and test all components after following the air bleed procedures dave/senior chief gave you. Then check for function. This would presumably solve the issue of whether or not your regulator on the unit is a potential candidate for the problem. Good luck
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #10
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Dave, with the info your offered, and starting back at the beginning, I have isolated the problem somewhat. I purchased a propane bottle and connected everything as the previous owner had it. You were correct, he had the propane bottle connected, not because it was more convienent, as he stated. Evenything works as it should on the propane bottle.

So with that knowledge, what is it telling me? Possible the control board is bad? Is that something I can hope to purchase for a unit this old? I have a storage compartment next to the onboard propane tank compartment. Could I have a longer hose made up and put a propane bottle in this storage compartment? -- Possible but a vent in the door? Is this an option?

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:43 PM   #11
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Dunner/Lokahi

I responded to Dave before seeing your reply. I think we are all on the same page now. I believe it is the control board. Is an option, converting over to propane bottles?

Terry
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:49 PM   #12
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If all works on Bar-B-Que setup, then it is between Bar-B-Que injection point and propane tank. Typically, that just means the tank, the regulator, and the hoses. Only other variable is if you have a regulator that is remotely controlled by the leak detector (you said you had a detector) or a seperate control valve (wire to it from detector) betweeen regulator and tank?. If so, do you have the model information for the detector. Might be a override function described in the owners manual. Or, might simply be you need to put new batteries in the detector.

I assume you mean detector control board?

OPtion yes, but the least favorable one.

Dave
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:01 PM   #13
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Dave, I do have a leak detector mount in the kitchen area down on the floor. The detector is wired into something. It has 4 or 5 sets of wires going somewhere. I do not see but 1 wire at the tank and it seems to be connected to the onboard tank's fuel gage.

The detector has an electronic board. I don't know if this is the control board or not. I have not been able to obtain a manual for this MH, seems like they are very rare.

When I turn the detector to "On" it will set for a bit, then I get a "Malfunction" light and audio signal. Also, I do not see a battery, or slot for a battery on this board.

I will go back out and get a model for the detector.

Terry
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:04 PM   #14
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Typically a coach mfg installs a device made by someone else. Need mfg/model of who made the detector then search for manual for that device.

Dave
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