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Old 11-23-2014, 09:01 AM   #127
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Good morning. An update from yesterdays adventure. I started the afternoon by going and filling the ole RV up with some gas. None eventful but informative, the manual says its a 30 gal tank and the PO said its a 40. So I now know I can trust the manual. I then went to another station and filled up the propane. I was expecting to pay a lot more than $28.00 to fill so I was pleasantly surprised. Then took a little drive, a bit in town, and on the freeway. The positive is it didn't blow up. It did well, it actually drives pretty well. It does has the tail wag issue I have heard about. Even a medium size SUV will let you feel it. I suppose I will have to fab up a rear rack bar set-up to eliminate that. I feel like it has a miss under acceleration. I will go through the plugs, and dist tomorrow to see if I can track it down. When I got home I opened the propane tank. Lit all the burners on the stove, the oven, and turned on the heater all at different times. Everything working as it should. I also lit the ref and let it run for about 30 mins. The smell is gone.

So the list for Mon-Wed. check plugs, install new cap and coil. Check vacuum adv set-up for proper operation. Install new street water adapter. The old one spray water when the pump is on. Replace the water line from the toilet as it leaks a bit. Clean the blade in the toilet as it wont hold water. last but not least clean clean CLEAN.
Thank you all for the advice, kind words, and encouragement. This has been a year long battle to get to here. I am not finished. As we start working on the stuff that can be seen like the paint and interior I will post pics. Of course also how the first trip goes.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:21 PM   #128
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Wandering

On your "Tail Wagging", might look at the thread Wandering, Sway Bars. Do not know what your rig is, but good info there regardless. And you will need to check tires and tire pressure, loaded weights at least for front and rear, if not 4 corners. Then set tire PSI for the carried weight, per manufacturer website. Inspection and alighment. New shocks. And we have near new tires, right?

Aint't this fun. ☺

ronspradley

.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:22 PM   #129
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The tires are less than a year old. Shocks are low miles but old. I have an 82 Allegro 27'. Its not horrible but I notice being I am not use to driving it on the freeway.

I did find today my vacuum advance it not working. No matter how hard I suck on the line I cant get any movement inside. If I loosen the diaphragm arm, I can move everything by hand. So that tells me my loss of power is the timing not advancing while under load. So new one shop be ready for me at the supply store tomorrow. I did replace the cap coil, and plugs anyway. While I was at it I installed a new CO detecter, and smoke detector. I also think I found my propane smell. The oven has a pilot and the control nob has a pilot on and off. Its not new so there is no ignition. So if the nob isnt in the right position it still leaks to keep the pilot lit. I bought some tank chemicals, dump drain line, and cleaning supplies. It will be a full next three days.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:20 AM   #130
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tinse4,
I had an 88 Southwind 28' on a P30 chassis, and I had airbags on all 4 corners. It had 8R19.5" tires, and due to the narrow tread, you had to watch the air pressure in the rear tires closely.
Frank
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:03 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinse4 View Post
I did find today my vacuum advance it not working. No matter how hard I suck on the line I cant get any movement inside. If I loosen the diaphragm arm, I can move everything by hand. So that tells me my loss of power is the timing not advancing while under load. So new one shop be ready for me at the supply store tomorrow. I did replace the cap coil, and plugs anyway.
I would like to correct a few things, one is specifically because it was something I misunderstood for a long time. Vacuum advance retards the timing under load. Basically what happens is that as you step on the gas, you let more air into the cylinder. More air in the cylinder means higher cylinder pressure, which results in knock. So, as you step on the throttle, the low in vacuum reduces the advance to prevent knock. Your spring weights are there to compensate for RPM tuning of your intake. As the intake becomes more efficient, you increase air flow, resulting in higher cylinder pressure. The 2 curves interact to keep maximum advance under every throttle condition at every RPM. Its not perfect, but generally it works.
(Just as a side note: I discovered when tuning my engine how non-linear the optimum timing advance is. At lower RPMs, wider throttle opening did not result in much cylinder pressure, because my intake is not as efficient below 3K RPM. So I told the computer to not take out much timing advance when I step on the throttle at low RPMs. As my RPM goes above 3K, the intake gets very efficiency - over 100%, so in those ranges, I have to reduce my advance at a much greater rate. So by not reducing the advance at lower RPMs, it dramatically changed my throttle response.)

One last thing, I'm not sure one can suck enough vacuum with your mouth to move the vacuum advance. Your engine is a very effective vacuum pump and under some conditions can pull a near perfect vacuum. Vacuum advance failure will probably result in knock, assuming the timing is set correctly.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:26 AM   #132
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Thanks for the info Dave. I tired all sorts of things things yesterday. As you mentioned even the new vacuum advance I could only get a little movement out of it. I replaced it anyway. So after messing with it last night and getting really frustrated I called it a night. I sat and thought for a while about this recurring issue. When I put the new carb on it ran great for a few days. Then this popping in the carb appeared. The heads are fresh rebuilds so I doubt its that. It leads me to believe that its either an issue with the distributor, or fuel system. I am not one to through money at a problem, but am at a loss here. Im thinking I will buy a reman dist today, some new plug wires and new fuel filter. I have read several forums on 454 and these can be issues. The only other thing that keeps coming up is a worn cam lobe. That is not something I want to see. Though not expensive or hard to do a pain to get to to replace.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:29 AM   #133
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AHHH What SO when it pings, I let off the pedal and they go away?
This is why my mechanic gets paid...

Happy Holiday's, Tim
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:49 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by tinse4 View Post
Thanks for the info Dave. I tired all sorts of things things yesterday. As you mentioned even the new vacuum advance I could only get a little movement out of it. I replaced it anyway. So after messing with it last night and getting really frustrated I called it a night. I sat and thought for a while about this recurring issue. When I put the new carb on it ran great for a few days. Then this popping in the carb appeared. The heads are fresh rebuilds so I doubt its that. It leads me to believe that its either an issue with the distributor, or fuel system. I am not one to through money at a problem, but am at a loss here. Im thinking I will buy a reman dist today, some new plug wires and new fuel filter. I have read several forums on 454 and these can be issues. The only other thing that keeps coming up is a worn cam lobe. That is not something I want to see. Though not expensive or hard to do a pain to get to to replace.
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AHHH What SO when it pings, I let off the pedal and they go away?
This is why my mechanic gets paid...

Happy Holiday's, Tim
And there you have the spectrum of owners, the first do it yourself, learn and solve; and second, ignore the issue or pay someone to fix.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:36 AM   #135
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My mechanic happens to be one of my closest, oldest friends. He also is the organizer of the trip this weekend. So he called this morning and is coming over tonight to help me. So I pay my mechanic with beer and dinner.
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:31 PM   #136
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Of everything that you have replaced, have you replaced the coil? If the coil were arcing to ground randomly, that could make it pop. Also have you looked at your timing chain?
BTW: It is not uncommon for old engines to crack the intake. Something else to look at, particularly directly under the carb, where the exhaust crossover heats things up.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:51 PM   #137
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Dave I have replaced the cap, coil, wires, and plugs. The first coil burnt up in a month or so. I kept the old one being it worked, was just doing a tune up. So I reinstalled the old one, and was fine. Now that this has happened I put all new again. The timing chain and gears I replaced while I ran into the valve issue. I had assumed that the timing had jumped. So timing set, water pump and alternator all replaced then. I bought a new dist, wires, pcv valve and a tach today. I know the tach wont fix anything, but can help diagnose things, plus I like to see my RPM. So tonight my buddy is coming over and one of two things will happen. #1 We fix it.Yeah! #2 I burn it to the ground. Yeah!
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:15 PM   #138
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Dave my dear friend I'm on a phone search jim Elliot's distributor mod full advance with the weights then limit the vacuum advance my toad was 5600 lbs he has been gone 2 or 3 years this month a great friend
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Old 11-30-2014, 03:54 PM   #139
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Well we survived the first trip. All in all a good weekend, and learned alot. Had a few issues, which I expected. The furnace died, I think its the wire to the hot surface ignition. I will have to pull the unit to get a better look. Some extra blankets and the dash heat in the morning took care of the chill. The gennie ran great the first 2 days. Then the carb decided to get blocked up and kept flooding it. Should be an easy fix with a carb rebuild. The engine started the popping in the carb again. It made for a long drive home. I stopped, pulled the carb apart and it had a bunch of crud in the bowls. I also found two plug wires burnt. Still didn't fix it, but it made it home. So back to work on the issues. The next trip isn't till April, and with a baby a month and a half away I don't see any more trips till then. So will keep working and try it again.
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:46 PM   #140
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tinse4,
Glad most of the trip was good. You might want to give a triple dose of Stabil. It might help with the crud in the lines. The plug wires are going to keep burning until you fix the exhaust manifold. Also you might try the more expessive racing wires with the high heat coating and they make a high temp sleeve that slips over the wire that withstands temps over 1200*. Good luck and best wishes on the new bundle of joy.
Frank
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