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Old 01-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #15
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tucson Az
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Ok so here is an update on this weekends adventure. So we got the RV running. Had a few issues to work through but got them sorted and up and running. We then did a few test trips around the block. Upon returning we would tune, and fix any issues we found. We finally decided it we time to go. We got about half we to my house and lost a tire. I had to park it and leave it over night. Got up Sunday morning put a new tire on it and excitedly jumped back behind the wheel. Turn the key and motor turns but won't start. We then spent all day Sunday trying to get it started. Only thing we can figure is the valves are sticking not allowing to ignite. We have spark, and fuel. So we had to tow it to my buddies house. Tonight we will pull the valve covers and insect the valve movement. Fortunately I have today off. I need the rest. So that's where I am as of now.

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Old 01-20-2014, 08:59 AM   #16
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If the valves are sticking, it also should be turning over faster with the starter since there is no compression. You would also have blowback in the intake. Things needed for gasoline engines are spark-fuel-air-timing. You may have fuel, but what quality? Is it the old fuel? I would carefully put about a 1/4 of a cup of fuel in the intake and try iy.

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Old 01-20-2014, 10:37 AM   #17
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Location: Tucson Az
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We drained the tank we are running off. We got lucky and both tanks have drains. So we drained the one we are running off, and replaced with new. We had a couple fuel line issues, and repaired them. As far as spark, we pulled all the wires and visually confirmed spark to each. We also loosened the distributed to turn, and "play" with timing to see if we jumped or were out. Still nothing. We did the direct fuel to the carb to confirm we have all three parts needed being air fuel and spark. Still nothing. While "playing" with the timing we founds the spot that yes the motor turned much easier. Still no good. We put some Seafoam in the case to let soak over night and primed the oil pump again to mix it through the motor. Hopefully tonight we will get some life again.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:23 AM   #18
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I sure hope you marked the distributor before you moved it. Sounds like a spark plug problem.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:25 AM   #19
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Wonder if the spark is too weak to fire. Under compression, it is more difficult to spark than out in open air. This always gets fun, when you think you have spark, but you don't. With points, this would happen if the condenser was bad. This one is electronic, so I'm not as sure. You could purchase a module, they are not that expensive. It is not a bad idea to have a spare anyway, because these are known to fail. Having one with you can save a camping trip - especially if it fails on the side of the road somewhere and you just confidently pull it out of a cabinet and replace it, and drive off while your DW stares at you in disbelief.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:37 AM   #20
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You also might check in over at the Tiffin web site: Tiffin RV Network
on their forums.
I'm sure you will get some additional help and guidance, & several will be interested in your project.
R & E
No RV at the moment
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:36 PM   #21
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Location: Tucson Az
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Thanks for the thought folks. As far as marking the distributer we did do that. The buddy that is helping me is a mechanic by trade, and builds and races jet boats. I am confidant in his abilities. In this area at least. Lol as far as the spark being low that was a thought also. We tested the voltage at the battery, and the distributer. Voltage was the same so there is no drop there. A new module may be in order however. I also agree that a spare will not hurt to have. My bigger concern is that if the valves were sticking that we bent them while driving it. I have had it happen to me before on an 87 Toyota I resurrected form the weeds. It had a valve that must have been sticking and bent it. It's an easy fix on a four cylinder truck. The small space in the RV will be interesting to pull the heads. I will check out the Tiffin network. I already signed up on it. Thanks again.

On another note what the favorite way to clean an old gas tank at home? A buddy that builds custom cars like baking soda and vinegar in the tank, flush, drain and let dry. Any other opinions?
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
I'm not an old wife, but tires age faster from lack of use, something the OP mentioned about his new RV. In addition, the rig in the discussion is in Tucson, AZ, a place where sun and heat can cause even more damage. Where did this information come from, well, you could check here:
Polk’s Top 7 Tips for Protecting Aging Motorhome Tires

Tire Replacement Guidelines - Goodyear RV

Bob Dickman Tire Center - Motorhome Tires » RV Tire Age

and Here:
Tire Failure

Sure you could have tires checked by a professional every year after the fifth year, but most 'pros' are trained to change and balance tires, they aren't putting their family on board and won't be liable if it blows and takes out valuable fiberglas.
Your original post stated 6 years as an absolute. Even the tire companies don't state that. Michelin says 10 years as an absolute. My last set of Michelins went over 8 years.
Michelin Technical Bulletin
May 15, 2006

Service Life for RV/Motorhome Tires

The following recommendation applies to RV/Motorhome tires. Tires are composed of various types of material and rubber compounds, having performance properties essential to the proper functioning of the tire itself. These component properties evolve over time. For each tire, this evolution depends upon many factors such as weather, storage conditions, and conditions of use (load, speed, inflation pressure, maintenance, etc.) to which the tire is subjected throughout its life. This service-related evolution varies widely so that accurately predicting the serviceable life of any specific tire in advance is not possible.

That is why, in addition to regular inspections and inflation pressure maintenance by consumers, it is recommended to have RV/Motorhome tires, including spare tires, inspected regularly by a qualified tire specialist, such as a tire dealer, who will assess the tires suitability for continued service. Tires that have been in use for 5 years or more should continue to be inspected by a specialist at least annually.

Consumers are strongly encouraged to be aware not only of their tires visual condition and inflation pressure, but also of any change in dynamic performance such as increased air loss, noise or vibration, which could be an indication that the tires need to be removed from service to prevent tire failure.

It is impossible to predict when tires should be replaced based on their calendar age alone. However, the older a tire the greater the chance that it will need to be replaced due to the service-related evolution or other conditions found upon inspection or detected during use.

While most tires will need replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is recommended that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear serviceable and even if they have not reached the legal wear limit.

For tires that were on an original equipment vehicle (i.e., acquired by the consumer on a new vehicle), follow the vehicle manufacturers tire replacement recommendations, when specified (but not to exceed 10 years).

The date when a tire was manufactured is located on the sidewall of each tire. Consumers should locate the Department of Transportation or DOT code on the tire that begins with DOT and ends with the week and year of manufacture. For example, a DOT code ending with 0304 indicates a tire made in the 3rd week (Jan) of 2004.

Toyo RV Safety

Tire Damage and Aging (Non-Commercial Use)
Vehicle operating conditions and tire maintenance practices vary widely. Tires should be routinely checked for damage or signs of fatigue or aging. This should be done at scheduled vehicle maintenance intervals and preferably on a lift so that the tires can be thoroughly inspected by a tire professional.
Tire longevity is extremely dependent on factors such as air pressure maintenance. It is recommended that tires be thoroughly examined by a tire professional after reaching five years of service. Even tires with serviceable tread remaining may require replacement prior to wearing out. Tires which have reached a remaining tread depth of 4/32nd should be replaced.
The age of your tire can be determined by reading the sidewall. Every tire has a 10 or 11 digit DOT (Department of Transportation) identifying number on one sidewall. The last 3 or 4 digits are the most important to you. Older tires have 3 digits, the first two identifying the week of manufacture and the third digit the year when the tire was made. Tires made between 1990 and 1999 may have a triangle alongside the numbers. As from January 2000 4 digits are used, the first two give the week of manufacture and the last two digits tell the year the tire was made.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Your original post stated 6 years as an absolute. Even the tire companies don't state that. Michelin says 10 years as an absolute. My last set of Michelins went over 8 years.
PARDON ME! I SHOULD have said, "You'll need to check age of the tires, anything over 6 years old you should think about replacing before putting it on the road."

Of course I feel a bit vindicated since tinse4 reported, "We got about half way to my house and lost a tire." So the tire lasted 15 minutes since, "I will be going across town strictly on surface streets but will still take about 30 mins." ...and I didn't have to resort to name calling.

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:51 PM   #24
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What you are describing as far as a no start after running sounds like you lost a timing chain. In all of the older American engines a stuck valve will not result in a bent valve because the compression is not as high and there is not an interference between the piston and an open valve. Assuming this is a normal stock engine. I would pull the distributor cap and number one spark plug and then tap it over until number one is at TDC, see if the rotor is pointing at number one plug wire. I am betting it isn't. The chain will not break, it will skip several teeth though and put the valves way out of time.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:32 PM   #25
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Location: Tucson Az
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Thanks for the info. I will certainly check that. I won't be able to get back to work on it till Wednesday but will let you know the result. The buddy that has been helping me through that out but didn't think it likely. I am willing to try that before tearing into a motor.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:14 PM   #26
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Thanks for the pictures looks nice, ours is a 82 also but a PA, Good luck with getting her started. The only problems I have had was a choke pull off and the fuel filters. Hope you get her going. thanks for the posts.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:44 AM   #27
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You didn't say what chassis is under the coach, if it is a chrysler motor, change the ballast resistor, it is a known problem in the 70's chrysler products. Not sure about the 80's. If it is a GM chassis, then, a new module in the distributor and also check the wires that go from the outside of the distributor to the module, another known trouble spot. a new coil, along with cap and rotor and plug wires while you are at it.
If it is a Ford chassis, I'm sorry, but I have no experience with these. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:58 AM   #28
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Location: Tucson Az
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Thanks Frank. Its a Chevy P-30 from what I am gathering. I know its a Chevy B.B motor. Will be able to look at it more tonight. Have had the baby while the wife is at work the last few nights. On a better note however, Tiffin emailed me the owners manuale this morning. That will make the house check-up and start up much easier. The manual covers 1982-84 if anyone needs. I have a digital copy I can send. will update tonight when I get done working on her. Thanks again for things to look at folks.

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