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Old 01-24-2014, 06:52 AM   #29
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Any news on the 82? Just wondering Thanks for the pictures looks great. Ours is also on the P30, and has a 454- 4 -barrel. What did you mean when you said its "A chevy BB motor"?
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:45 AM   #30
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Spitz I mean its the same as yours. Its a Chevy Big Block motor. Its the 454 on a P-30 chassis. As it stands now it appears the timing chain did jump. I will be repairing that tomorrow, along with replacing the water pump, alternator, all new radiator hoses, new belts with the new timing chain and gears. I figure if I have to pull it all apart I will replace everything I take off so hopefully wont have to again. So as it sits now it still wont run. I am hoping for the best as far as no bent push rods or valves. I did get to plug it into shore power( if that the right term, it is on boats). The inverter must be working being all the house light, a/c and such came on and work. Will need to get it home and check all the holding tanks, and gen set. I will update tomorrow evening.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:33 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by tinse4 View Post
Spitz I mean its the same as yours. Its a Chevy Big Block motor. Its the 454 on a P-30 chassis. As it stands now it appears the timing chain did jump. I will be repairing that tomorrow, along with replacing the water pump, alternator, all new radiator hoses, new belts with the new timing chain and gears. I figure if I have to pull it all apart I will replace everything I take off so hopefully wont have to again. So as it sits now it still wont run. I am hoping for the best as far as no bent push rods or valves. I did get to plug it into shore power( if that the right term, it is on boats). The inverter must be working being all the house light, a/c and such came on and work. Will need to get it home and check all the holding tanks, and gen set. I will update tomorrow evening.
Yes, RVers use Shore power as the term for plugging in to pedestal.

I looked on a variety of Chevy GM forums, most, but not all, say 454 engine is an interference engine, so a jumped timing chain could mean bent valves or push rods. Better check compression before starting or apply about 80 lbs air through spark plug hole and turn slowly until pressure builds, showing valves closed, and undamaged. I hope damage will be minor or none.

You probably have a Converter/charger rather than an Inverter/charger. Big difference in price and most RVs of that vintage would only have C/C.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:51 AM   #32
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The fan shroud is a 2 piece one split it apart if like my 1985 there will be a crossmember that cam be removed 4 bolts that will give you more room
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:53 AM   #33
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This may be silly but what is an ERS? Insurance is ready and will print a temporary 30 day plate when I feel its ready to drive home. You can only print two I believe so I want to save the days I can.
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ERS = Emergincy Road Service, like this:
Coach-Net - Plans
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:11 AM   #34
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Thanks guys. I am hoping to find a way to get the radiator out easy. From the looks of it I will have to drop it down, which means jacking the front of the RV up. Not happy about that. My shop doesnt have high enough doors, or I would use tyhe lift for the front. I will have to do some more looking this evening to hatch a plan for tomorrow.
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:57 PM   #35
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I looked for a easier way mine was the water pump about 20 hours min. add 4 more for the chain and gears PM me I'll give you my number then you can look at the job
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:41 PM   #36
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I seriously doubt you are going to find an American v8 made after 1971 that is an interference motor. These are the emissions years and the compression on these motors is no higher than 9:1, a lot lower than that on mast. Remember that the 454 in a motor home is a truck engine and not the same as a 454 in a Chevelle or a Vette which is a HP engine. Even those engines in the mid 70's to late 80's are all low enough compression as to not have an interference problem. You will only see that with closed chamber heads and/or high lift long duration cams, neither of which are going to be in a R/V. Pus, if it hit the valves he would know it, the engine is right next to you. The valve covers will need to come off anyway to verify timing so you will know.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:32 PM   #37
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I have heard both that its an interference, and not. I am of course hoping for not. Yes the valve covers will have to come off to reset the timing of the cam. So at that point I will hand spin it to see what if any issues i can see with valves sticking. I went to the Rv on my lunch break to get a better idea. It looks like it will fit in my shop with a few inches to spare, and come out easier than what I thought. Wont be fun either way, but I think I have a better plan.(famous last words) On the upside I had plugged the RV in at my buddies house and the fridge and freezer work. I also figured out the micro after the owners manual from Tiffin. So the only thing left to test is the tanks, and gen set. Besides those things all seems to be working for now. As long as I don't have to rebuild this motor I will be a happy camper.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:46 AM   #38
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Good morning. Well after a long long day it is or was yesterday again alive. At this point half the motor is new. Long story short the only damage done to the motor was 7 bent and busted push rods. All of the intake push rod we mangled but one. Fortunately I have access to a wholesale account at Mereles. All of the intake valves had stuck closed causing the damage. we got them all freed up and is running and finally back to my house.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:27 AM   #39
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Good to hear you got it running, stuck intake valves are not good, hopefully it did not gall the guides. No matter what else you do be sure to check for timing chain looseness. There was one hell of a strain put on the chain to do that damage. Just bar the engine over forward till the distributor starts to turn, then go the other way and see how many degrees before the distributor starts to turn the other way. More than a couple degrees and you might want to replace that chain and gears while you are in there. Better now than on the road in the middle of nowhere. I don't know if you mentioned the mileage but if it is nearing 100,000 it is due anyway. I know a bunch of people are going to say "mine went 250,000 miles before the chain went" Yea, well I had one of them too, I was young and dumb and really did not care if I had to change it on the side of the road. Plus a pick up is a lot easier than a MH. If you are going to do the water pump then it is only about ten more little bolts right there with nothing else in the way at that point. Plus you have the advantage of replacing the front seal, a know leak point.
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:19 AM   #40
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I did replace the timing chain and gears along with the water pump and alternator. I also replaced the belt, and every piece of rubber I could get my hands on.
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:52 PM   #41
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You should be good to go, the rubber is a big thing that a lot of people overlook. Rubber degrades over time no matter whether it is exposed to light, fuel, gas, oil. Keep that in mind for the gas lines back at the tank also. I have that nightmare to tackle myself if it ever warms up.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:06 PM   #42
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Well it started back up today. I am hoping the engine trouble is all cleared up. I let it set and idle for about a half hour to keep parts moving. Next big step is all new tires, and getting it reregistered. In the mean time we will be doing a throu cleaning, replace all the fuel lines, and clean the rear gas tank. I will fill the fresh water rank and let it set for the week to insure it's not leaking. Then pressure check the propane system. Once all is inspected and some new rubber we will be off on a short shack down run. Hoping by the end of March to have everything ready for the shack down.

A question for the electrical guys. When I am plugged into shore power and turn the lights on I get a feed back noise through the speakers. There are four speaker to under the dash, and to in the kitchen area. My guess is that my converter is going bad and causing feedback through. Any buddy have another idea?
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