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Old 01-26-2014, 06:21 PM   #43
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Feedback or static? You might check and clean all connections on batteries. When you say lights, are you talking headlights or interior fluorescent lights? Fluorescents can create interference with radios.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:50 PM   #44
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The battery is brand new, and cables are clean for the motor. I don't have the house batteries yet due to budget and having all the motors trouble. That does make me wonder however if that might be the issue. If it's made to be charging the house battery it might be getting cranky without the load from the batteries. As for the other question it's a humming noise so it sounds like feedback to me.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #45
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Before replacing the converter/charger, I'd put a battery in to see if it will quiet down the hum. I questioned about feedback because that term is used when a microphone picks up sound, amplifies it and then the sound is picked up by the speaker and amplified again. You mentioned sound in the speakers and I didn't see how a microphone could have been involved. If the battery doesn't quiet it down, look for a radio 'choke filter.'
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:11 PM   #46
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The best technical explanation I can give you as to why it hums is because it doesn't know the words.

OK, actually if the unit has not been used in some time, it very well could be that its filter capacitors have gone bad. While a battery will filter out most of the noise, it does not filter all of it. Technically the filter capacitors could possibly be reformed, but if your not at least a little bit of an electronics geek, that is probably not for you. It may still be worth while to pull apart the converter anyway just to have a look around and make sure all the electrical connections are tight, and no cracked solder joints, especially to the capacitors.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:55 AM   #47
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If it is a one piece convertor then it is best to replace it with a modern one. Modern technology is set up for AGM batteries where the old convertor in there is not and will not charge them to their best capacity. Also the modern electronics are much better at managing the whole concept of charging and running the house side of the 12 volt appliances. New convertors are not all that expensive. Some, like my Winnie, use multiple sections though and are not a candidate without major rewiring.

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Old 01-28-2014, 09:19 AM   #48
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Thanks Rick. I will look into one. As always I am flipping switches, pulling things and trying to see what works and doesn't. So far I have not found a single thing that does not work. There was still some propane in the tank, so l decided to try the range last night. Yep the range works. I have to read the instructions for lighting the oven, or furnace yet so have not tried those. Tonight I will fill the fresh water tank, and check for leaks and see if the pump works. My wife and I took out some cushion and washed them yesterday, and gave it a first over vacuum cleaning. Some dusting, and oiling of the interior will be done this weekend. The only thing I am really worried about is pulling the awning out. Arizona is brutal to anything left outside. I may get the courage to try it this weekend.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:31 PM   #49
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I just wanted to say that my radiator needs to be replaced I think. The shop I go to has the type bay that you walk down steps to go under the MH so they say no problem taking it out from the bottom, I am wondering about the front seal, water pump, fan clutch. None are bad but they are 32 years old, with 49,000 miles (runs perrrfect). The age has me concerned a little bit. If I need to have the radiator replaced should I get the other stuff done while they are at it, and have the radiator out?
I say maybe on the radiator because it has only leaked after the other 1/2 added antifreeze to it about a month ago. It hasn't leaked again since then. I have been working in her and starting her all winter long letting her warm up 45min to 1 hour and no leaks, as far as that goes I have no engine leaks at all. I read another post about radiators that burp after adding anti-freeze and that is why it leaked. (overflo)??
Like what has be mentioned before I would rather have it done @ home base so I am not found on the side of the road and be at the mercy of a shop I know nothing about. I am glad your getting her going again like a breath of fresh air...Did your tanks leak? (I hope not) Have ya taken any Pictures of her.?

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Old 01-31-2014, 08:32 PM   #50
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That leak after a fill might just have been overflow from the tank if it were filled too much. As far as replacing things, ALL hoses, including heater hoses, whether they look/feel bad or not. Cheap insurance. I would also replace all of the belts since they are also a nightmare to get to.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:04 AM   #51
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Yes Rick I would have them replace all them front end parts you can manage. After having just done it I'm glad we did. The parts for these motors are cheap as can be. That's the nice thing about one of the most manucaftured motors on the planet. As far as belts, yes I replaced those also.

The water fill issue. I had a little time to look things over last night. I pulled the fill cap assembely off to find what I had figured. The hose connecting the fresh water tank and the filler was bad. Won't be fun to replace but not to bad. So I fabricate a complex assembly consisting of a funnel and a piece of scrap garden hose with a hose clamp. It's very scientific mind you. The hose goes into the tank, the funnel allows the water to enter the hose, then into the tank. so I filled about a quarter full to see if there are any leaks on the lower side.

So what else works? I fired the furnace up, and it works. It looks like I have an issue with power to the water pump. I'm thinking the panel, and switch that monitors the propane, water and batteries might have a problem. I haven't had time to pull it apart and start chasing power down. My experience with pump tells me the pump is probably bad after sitting so long anyway.

So that's where we sit now.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:28 AM   #52
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Thanks ,
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:32 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinse4 View Post
Yes Rick I would have them replace all them front end parts you can manage. After having just done it I'm glad we did. The parts for these motors are cheap as can be. That's the nice thing about one of the most manucaftured motors on the planet. As far as belts, yes I replaced those also.

The water fill issue. I had a little time to look things over last night. I pulled the fill cap assembely off to find what I had figured. The hose connecting the fresh water tank and the filler was bad. Won't be fun to replace but not to bad. So I fabricate a complex assembly consisting of a funnel and a piece of scrap garden hose with a hose clamp. It's very scientific mind you. The hose goes into the tank, the funnel allows the water to enter the hose, then into the tank. so I filled about a quarter full to see if there are any leaks on the lower side.

So what else works? I fired the furnace up, and it works. It looks like I have an issue with power to the water pump. I'm thinking the panel, and switch that monitors the propane, water and batteries might have a problem. I haven't had time to pull it apart and start chasing power down. My experience with pump tells me the pump is probably bad after sitting so long anyway.

So that's where we sit now.
Ours is the same the lp, battery reouts, have always said the same since we got her. Maybe you will can figure it out. I haven't been able too.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:54 PM   #54
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Well it appears I have bigger problems than the water leak. When we did all the work last weekend we thought we had all the valves freed up. I have started the motor a few times over the week and it started just fine. I went to start it again to and nothing. So I pulled the passenger side valve cover. Once again intake push rods are trashed. it looks like I am pulling heads and getting a valve job. At least I will have the peace of mind I suppose. In my mind the water issue will have to take a back seat to a running engine. So in the next week or so I will once again pull this freaking motor apart. Then off to get a full valve job and then, maybe then it will run right.

Please oh rv gods , please.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:31 AM   #55
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That was kind of what I was worried about when I mentioned the galled valve guides. I would also have the gas tank cleaned out because it is varnish in the gas that is causing the problem and it is not going to magically go away without cleaning out the fuel system. Today's gas with the alcohol in it is a fantastic solvent and it will loosen up 20 years worth of crud. Not all of that stuff is solids that will get caught by a filter, a lot of it is non-flammable varnish that will pass the filter and gum up carburetors, injectors and valves.
What I would do, it is up to you what you do, is this. Get the valve job but before even thinking of starting the engine drop the tanks and clean it out. Donate the gas in it to the local resource recovery facility, it is too suspect to use. Put fresh gas in the tank but do not hook up the line to the carburetor yet. You will have had the carb off to do the heads, make sure it is emptied out. Crank the engine with the carb line in a coffee can or similar and pump out at least a half gallon before hooking the line back up to the carb. This will flush out all of the old gas out of the system and you will have nothing but fresh gas going to the engine. Be aware that the alcohol in the gas will continue to clean out the system for a while so I would recommend frequent filter changes for a while. I know this sounds drastic but I can be pretty sure you do not want to do this again.

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Old 02-02-2014, 09:41 AM   #56
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Thanks Rick. You are right on point. We did drain the tank I am running on now, and refilled with new gas. The plan was to drain and clean the tank properly when I got it home. So with the work that will need to be done, it will be done. I will start pulling the heads off this week. Hopefully by the end of the week will have them off and in the shop. While waiting for them to come back, I will do the tank work, and rebuild the carb. The carb is working with no leaks, but i am an extremist. You are correct on the fact I don't want to do this again, and have the resources to get thing done most don't. See I happen to work at a charter high school. One of the few that still offers old school electives. We have a full auto shop with lifts, and two full time mechanics on staff. I am the wood shop teacher, also with a full very impressive shop.( if I do say so myself) So while heads are off I will use our wholesale account to order new fuel lines, carb rebuild kit and other fuel system parts and make it all brand new. By the time the heads get back I should have a brand new fuel delivery system to power them.

In the mean time I will be redoing the factory cup holder. Have seen a few threads on what people have done. I think I will be through ing the CNC machine to work, and doing a carving with 1982 Allegro on it. Will hopefully get it done this week, and get some pics up. Like I said I have access to lots of realy cool tools, and products. I can't wait to get to the bathroom remodel.
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