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Old 04-10-2014, 06:03 PM   #85
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Here is a quick update. I have finally gotten the fresh water issues fixed. No more leaks, and the pump is working. I have found that I need a new kitchen faucet, and toilet flapper. The hot water heater works, but I smell propane when I open the valve at the tank. I think it is coming from the range, so I will investigate that soon. While I am waiting for the carb to be rebuilt I decided to put my shop to use. I am removing the two swivel chairs, and desk. I will be replacing those with a bench that I made. I found the idea online, and put my twist on it. It will be a couch in the stowed position, and pull out into a bed. It also opens, for storage. The next step is the cushions. I am using 5" thick mattress grade foam for the cushions. Here are some pics of where I am with it now.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:25 AM   #86
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Since I have not read anyone else mention it I will. Be sure to do a close inspection of the wiring, wires on this old a rig have a bad tendency to have cracked insulation, or in my case, add mice modifications. I saw it when we bought it, but it turned out to be a bigger project to fix the wiring than I had anticipated They had chewed through several of the covered runs--harnesses?--and made my life miserable as I ended up chasing everything from the back end all the way to the front. Just food for thought.

Berniece & Russell with LilBit the Netherland Dwarf rabbit who knows she is queen
1987 Southwind
2003 Kia Sedona
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:56 PM   #87
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any thoughts

I have read your complete post and I'm impressed. I had a 1984 winne about 10 years ago and the hum in you coach could be a cooling fan in your charger / converter. I had the same thing in my old Winnie. I don't know if your coach has a rear heater my did there were metal lines to the back of the coach and rubber heater hose to the heater also to the water heater for per heating while on the road check those if you have them. Best of luck keep the shining
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:07 PM   #88
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Thanks for the thoughts. I haven't been doing a lot with it, due to 100 degree weather, and in the process of starting a company. As soon as it cools of, I will get back to work. I think I have a handle on everything, just need to tune the engine, and get new spring or bags for the front end. The rest should be maintenance items to get her on the road. The engine runs, but not real smooth and will die after a few minutes. Now that I have found how to time on of these things I can set the timing, and tune the rebuilt carb. I hope that those two things will smooth out the idle. If not it means I have to pull the intake and check the valve adjustment.
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:04 PM   #89
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Well here in Tucson it is finally cooling off. I spent all day yesterday working on the old motorhome. I found it was a stuck lifter that was keeping the engine from idling. Problem solved, now runs great. Will still need a bit of tuning but am confident that she will be on the road in a week or two. Will still need some maintenance items to be trip ready but that should be easy once I can get it to my shop. Its been slow due to weather, and another baby on the way. I feel the hard part is done, now a few loose ends and we will be ready for a shack down trip.
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:52 PM   #90
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Well dont know if anyone is following, or care at this point but she runs great. Was able to finally get through the MVD B.S and got a 30 day temp plate for the old MH. So did some test drives around the block today. The rig runs great, but already found some issues. The brakes seem to surge. I will have to get it to he shop, and tear the brakes apart to see the issue. The other issue i found I was able to fix. The passenger inner dual had gone flat, and came off the bead. I was able to get it off find the leak, and air it bake up. I still have to get my auxiliary tank cleaned and connected and figure out why neither of my gauges work. I will take it to work with me tomorrow, and look into the breaks. THe rest will have to sit on the To-Do list. I may be odd but am more worried about being able to stop than my gas level. Thats it for today.
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:29 PM   #91
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Gotta love these older RV's

I just finished ready from the beginning keep up with the updates.

Back in Sept I purchased a 1984 26ft Suncrest for $2000 and it's in great condition. Main reason for purchasing it was to be used for a Seahawk Tailgating Rig so didn't want to spend lots of $$. Previous owners used it for the same purpose as we are using it for. Don't want to hijack your thread but here are details of mine.

56k Miles
Same chassis and motor as you
Generator has 227 hours and runs EXCELLENT
Interior is all original 30 yrs old
So far what only problems with the motor was having to replace the starter
Furnace and Hot Water heater do not work
Everything else in the unit works as they should all plumbing, stove, oven, and fridge.
Resealed the Aluminum roof with a product called Volkum 801 the best stuff IMO and damn easy to apply
Gas gauge doesn't work so need to figure that out

After football season we will be remodeling it most likely so that is where the fun will begin.

I will attach some photos. Also the photos that I attached is how I bought it was turn key for tailgating!!

Keep up with the updated!

Thanks
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Old 10-26-2014, 10:16 PM   #92
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That looks like its in far better shape than mine. I did get a better price though. Have fun with it keep me up to date.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:20 AM   #93
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I've been following. Quite a long road. Keep up the work. I did a brake fluid change on my Dolphin that made SUCH a huge difference in the way the thing stopped. I couldn't believe it would make that much of a change.
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:35 PM   #94
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Thank for the reassurance Castrol. I had to much to do at work today, so it goes with me tomorrow for the brake fluid change.
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:01 PM   #95
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Oh what a pain. SO today brought the RV to work, to flush the brake system. The front was done with little issue. The rear on the other hand. It has lift blocks in the rear and the bleeder valve is on top if the drum plate. So it looks like if the springs were in the original location that you would be able to reach the valve. You cannot however get to the valve with the lift blocks and springs in place. So the rear has not been done. I then decided to take it through emissions where i ran out of gas on the test cycle. Refilled with gas, went back and low and behold I failed. So any wonderful ideas or tricks to the rear brakes would be great. As far as the emissions, I know I had the timing advanced, so I am hoping that backing it off will cure that. My buddy does emission repairs, and he agrees. To top the day off, I found that the breather tube on the gas tank has a leak. As we were pour a gas can into the tank we noticed a leak. Will add that to the list. I am over this for today.
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Old 10-31-2014, 06:03 AM   #96
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tinse4,
To get to the rear bleeders, you will probably have to pull the wheels off and go in over the top of the drums. The timing shouldn't hurt the emissions, but it won't hurt to return it to specs. Make sure the choke is fully open and that the water is at operating temperature.
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Old 10-31-2014, 06:22 AM   #97
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a real pain to get to the bleeders i welded a piece of small pipe to the wrench to lengthen
still a pain
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:11 AM   #98
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Thanks for the hints. I noticed the engine isn't heating all the way. It only goes about 1/4 way instead of the half way point on the gauge. Now that it is at least drivable, I will try to bring it back to the shop on Sunday when nobody is here. It makes it much easier to get things done. I will then attempt to get to the rear brakes, re-time, and fix my gas gauge.
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