Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-24-2012, 09:37 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
Question Bathroom remodel Questions

Has anyone installed heated floor tiles that would run off land line power?.

What can be done to provide limitless hot water??.

How about hard piping the shower elements??.

Who makes the greatest pressure water pump and what is the pressure??.

The shower bases,who makes different sizes and shapes?.

Want to tile and gout the shower.Doable in M/H with the vibrations going down the road??.
__________________

__________________
The one thing about a do over is you get to do what you knew in the first place.
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Senior Chief's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Somewhere in the woods in Belfair, WA, WA
Posts: 1,250
I would suggest before you install a higher pressure water pump, you install an Oxygenics shower head. Best money you'll ever invest. If you still want a higher gpm pump, check this or higher gmp yet, this

Tile and grout are possible, many newer MH use tile. Use latex (flexible) grout and adhesives.

Endless hot water is only possible if you have endless fresh water and a sewer connection. Check out the smaller gpm tankless hot water systems.

As with any remodels in an older motor home, you must concern yourself with WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT.

Weigh your MH before you start remodeling, and think about replacing old with newer and lighter.

Vintage RVs usually had virtually no cargo capacity, because when merely filled with gas and propane they are close to their maximum gross vehicle weight rating.

If you insist on running overloaded, you risk tire failure and the potentially catastrophic results (trust me- a blow-out in your RV can do major damage to the body, ripping out sidewalls, tanks and floors).

House style stuff like tile and glass and granite may be appealing, but the RV interiors used lots of plastic and fiberglass and flimsy materials for a reason- to reduce WEIGHT.
__________________

__________________
Life rocks when your house rolls
Senior Chief
& the Cheese Queen


Senior Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 02:06 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Olivehurst, CA
Posts: 498
I agree with "Titanic Pilot" about checking your weight before you remodel, but each motor home is different. Before the remodel on ours we had 800lbs. of cargo capacity. That was with me, my wife, both kids, full tank of fuel, full fresh water tank, full propane tank and half full black/ grey water tanks. We did do granite and laminate flooring in ours and weighed everything before installing it to estimate the added weight. With all said and done we added approximately 200lbs. Which cut our cargo capacity to 600lbs.
__________________
Winnebeater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:30 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
Well towards the question of wt.It is a 20' Winnebago Warrior that is on a P30 chassis.It has 16.5's that are almost new.Now I am aware of outfitting tires for the sake of towing capacities.So honestly I don't remember when I bought these tires if I took that into account,but I would think knowing my plans for it I would have.From GM's archives I got the chassis options.Once I get new battery's for my camera I'll take a shot from the rear of the M/H.The 16.5's look like pigeon feet under a elephant.I hate those 16.5's for that and for the sake of no one uses them much anymore,around here they are hard to get and I suspect out on the road they would be hard to replace.One of the options for that chassis is dual tire rear end that is 19.5's which is more inline with my thinking except for the fact the current rear end ratio is 4.11's for a 350 SBC and the dual rear tire rear end used for the option of a BBC 454 is 4.56's.I suppose the tire size would kill off some of that gear ratio difference.I would not swap rear ends solely for the remodel,but more so to enable a more stable towing of my dual tire enclosed 12' trailer.And I would not just change the rear tire size only,but the fronts and spare tire too.Also add a rear stabilizing bar and beef up the rear suspension.Sadly that leaves me with 4 nearly new 16.5's and a spare that no one wants and a major investment........................

But it is something I have considered for awhile.
__________________
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 11:52 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Olivehurst, CA
Posts: 498
Tire capacity is only a small factor, brakes and suspension are a much larger part of the weight configuration. So, unless you are upgrading springs, axles, sway bars, wheel bearings, spindles, hubs, calipers, rotors.....etc.....etc. The benefits do not out weigh the cost in my opinion.
__________________
Winnebeater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 03:08 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
Yep-for me to even think about swapping I would have to buy a donor to strip.
__________________
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 05:06 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Olivehurst, CA
Posts: 498
I have a couple hundreds of hours in our remodel and I would sell mine and get a rig with a higher weight capacity before doing all that work. Mine has 16" wheels/ dual rear wheels and it does well with the changes I've made. I was very conscious about the weight that was going into it and very focused on my desired result.
__________________
Winnebeater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 10:03 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
I have on and off involved in this M/H since 1997 my join date.There is over 20yrs of towing traveling to swap meets we have done.In fact I have seen misused equipment and the results of blow-outs and the crashes that happened.This M/H isn't going anywhere other following threw with the game plan it is intended to be used for.

I do very much want to see this thread return back to my original questions about the bathroom remodel.

I'll handle any weight differences as what is appropriate for the re-model and towing.

Thanks.
__________________
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 06:10 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Senior Chief's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Somewhere in the woods in Belfair, WA, WA
Posts: 1,250
Fleamarketer- no offense was intended by talking about the weight issues with older RVs. Many newbie vintage owners are totally unaware of the issues, and actually quite a few not-so-newbies will also stubbornly refuse to acknowledge the weight limitations of these rigs.

Hard piping the shower stall- I presume you mean plumbing using something like CPVC rather than replacing the original gray butyl pipe with PEX?

Sure, CPVC will work fine. It may not stand up to 20 years of on the road, but then neither did the gray stuff.

If you are not totally replacing all the plumbing in the MH, you can use Sharkbite or similar fittings to connect the new CPVC to the old gray stuff.

Shower pan- you may want to have a local fiberglass shop fabricate a custom pan for your rig. Our experience was that they appear to come in only a few standard sizes.

Underfloor heat- no reason why not. You can pick up all the elements at your local big-box hardware.
__________________
Life rocks when your house rolls
Senior Chief
& the Cheese Queen


Senior Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 09:12 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
Thumbs up

The current floor plan:



The right side I have deleted the top bunk bed,I am going to delete the small closet by the side door,move the frig location to by the side door,move the single buck bed forward against the new frig location,then built the bathroom wall across the back to open up more space for a enlarged shower stall with multi shower heads on the shower walls and one main shower head and a sky light for extra height.The use for the shower would be when city water was hooked up and sewer hooked up so the gray tank doesn't come into play.Other than that would in use for the main shower head for city water and the use of the gray tank.It is a aggressive remodel for the most comfort because the travel of this motor home is for a business where it will be used for fulltime living.

Lorna,Dan,and myself have spent yrs talking about this RV since 1997.Look at my Roof Repair thread.I have also spend the same amount of time researching the model I have as well read tons of info on this and other forums.I admit I haven't considered wt increases with a remodel and thanks for that tip.I do have tons of travel experience with many different size trailers and tow vehicles which I am acutely aware of safety issues that I address while putting together a rig before hitting the road.

As far as the aspect of being a newbie,because of the above I don't consider myself as a newbie.All the yrs invested into this project in research I do removes me from that position.Do I know it all??.Heck no.But then who does on here................
__________________
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #11
Junior Member
 
Friendship37's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 16
For endless hot water I am going to use a marine heat exchanger and a pump to get heat from main engine AND also plumb in generator cooling system to extract heat from any engine I am running to keep hot water hot.
__________________
Friendship37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2012, 05:22 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
fleamarketer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester
Posts: 789
Wouldn't you have to run the engine all the time then??.
__________________
fleamarketer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 07:01 AM   #13
Junior Member
 
Friendship37's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 16
When I am running engine or generator I will get heat, this is not the way to always make hot water, BUT if I have warm water in tank already then hot water is easier to make. Showering should then be available with at least temperate water. I would look at an electric water heater for when ever I am tied to shore power.
__________________
Friendship37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 09:45 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Olivehurst, CA
Posts: 498
I have a older class A and the engines hot water is routed from the engine to the front heater core, then to a heat exchanger pipe on the water heater, then to a small heater core in the bed room and finally returns to the engine.

I believe there are three benefits to this; one the engines coolant dissipates a great deal of heat throughout the system making engine cooling much more efficient, two the interior of the motorhome is heated by the two heater cores quite easily cuts down the need for the furnace and three while the engine is running the heat exchanger pipe transfers enough heat to the water heater that the hot water is scalding hot and also greatly reduces the need for the hot water to be heated via propane.

If you are boon docking you will have to start the engine or generator periodically to charge your batteries. If you had heat exchangers in stalled you could utilize that opportunity to take your showers and wash dishes.

As for the times your hooked up to shore power I'm not sure how efficient an electric water heater would be, but I would bet that between the propane water heater and a tankless electric heater you would probably have plenty of hot water.
__________________

__________________
Winnebeater is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
remodel



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I need your bathroom Ideas Bilito Vintage RV's 13 05-04-2012 08:36 PM
Bathroom Exhaust Fan first5thwheel 5th Wheel Discussion 15 05-01-2012 10:54 AM
reset light in bathroom panel damccart Excel Owner's Forum 3 04-24-2012 09:01 PM
Norcold Fridge Recall Questions??? fansill RV Systems & Appliances 18 03-26-2012 04:57 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.