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Old 02-22-2012, 09:13 AM   #15
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Before this gets off on a tangent,

Most chargers are voltage sensing devices. The charging voltage from one can result in the other one not sensing the actual battery voltage fooling a charger into thinking the battery bank is already fully charged. Even solar can affect a converter/charger.

Does not matter if your using a PD9245 (45 amp) or a PD9285 (85 amp) converter/charger. The voltage settings for each charging stage is the same for all models. Therefore, it is not the set points in this case that determine how long it takes to charge, but rather how much amperage the converter/charger can supply and how big the battery bank is. You can recharge a battery with most trickle chargers if you can wait many, many days to do it (very small amperage rate). The higher amperage capability will decrease the charge time (not voltage settings for like simular units). The only rule of thumb to follow is don't let the amperage charging rate exceed 25% of the total AH capacity of the battery bank. If, you are using something like a Trick-L-Start or a BIRD system, then remember the chassis battery becomes part of the total battery bank capacity. The effect of amp rate and the effects of voltage surface charge is why devices such as the Trimetric battery monitor and the Inverter/charger controllers use amperage flow to determine state of charge rather than voltage.

Now, with that said, if you are using a converter charger like the Boondocker brand or a Inverter/Charger that has adjustable stage set points, then the charging time can be decreased somewhat because the bulk stage voltage set point is 14.6VDC or higher rather than the 14.4VDC of the PD units. Please note that Trojan Battery Company does say that the proper bulk stage charging rate for their T-105 batteries is 14.8VDC (http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TRJ...UsersGuide.pdf). The trade off for the higher voltage though is higher water loss due to boiling. Please note that even though 14.8VDC is listed by Trojan there are only a few marine converters that provide that. Some higher end Inverter/Chargers do allow you to set these higher Boost mode levels. Converter Mfgs design to the much broader range requirements of the mixed 12VDC and 6VDC battery community rather than just one battery mfg type.

Boost stage brings the battery up to around 90%-95% capacity. Absorbtion and Float modes operate the same for all units. Absorbtion mode is used to complete the charge by setting the voltage to 13.6VDC and then decreasing amp rate as the battery completes the last portion of the charge cycle. Absorbtion mode is also typically used for normal RV load use. Converter basically transitions to float mode (13.2VDC) once it senses there is no loads on the system.

A few more things to remember:
1 - Once a battery appoaches 90% capacity during a charge cycle, battery water boiling increase at the higher charging voltages (14.4VDC - 14.8VDC). Thats why the charger transistions to Absorbtion mode.
2 - Extended operation at 13.6VDC (Absorbtion mode) with no loads drawing excess current off can also result battery water boil off. That was the main issue with older linear style converters. 3 stage units transition to 13.2VDC FLoat mode to avoid this problem.

Dave
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:17 AM   #16
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Hmmm... Interesting thought. I would think those 4 chargers may not put out 14.4 volts, but you probably already know if they do or not. If they did, combined they are still putting out 14.4v together. If they are 10amp chargers, theorically, you have 40amps capable. If you have a 50 amp converter, you have 90amps available. So, does having more amps available, convert into faster charging times? I would think so if you had 4 or 6 T-105s, but I'm not sure 2 would accept that. Certainly something to look into and I've never gotten that deep into battery charging, me thinks though that more amps will do nothing or boil the bank if too much. Certainly worth the time to experiment.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #17
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I know at least one goes to 14.6 volts before going into the float mode. That's the one I'm going test to see if the charge current drops off sooner than my converter does.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:27 PM   #18
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The 12 volts going to convertor comes from solenoid thats activated when motors going. I used a test wire from battery to the wire going to the convertor and everything works. Do I need the solenoid.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:34 PM   #19
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Duckmangt,
Your comment does not make sense so:

I hope you do understand that a converter is used to generate 12VDC "from" 120VAC in order to supply 12VDC to the coach and recharge the house battery(s)?

The relay you referenced is an AUX Boost relay intended to:
1 - Provide 12VDC to the chassis battery IF you accidently run the chassis battery down and
2 - On some rigs, is used to allow charging of the coach battery bank by the engine alternator when driving.

Inverter - Used to generate 120VAC from 12VDC battery power.

So, you are not supplying 12VDC to the converter. It is the other way around. The converter supplies 12VDC to the coach system/battery WHEN using either Shore Power or Generator. If you are not getting 12VDC from the converter then either the converter is not getting 120VAC or the converter has a problem.

If you have the same style Progressive Dynamics AC/DC Converter Distribution panel shown on page 21 of Kartvines website (http://1983fleetwoodpacearrowownersm....blogspot.com/) then, there is a battery/converter transfer relay inside there that could be hanging up. Addditionally, the converter is part of the unit on the backside. One of AC breakers maybe marked converter power. Please note that in that era PD used a linear converter with only a 6 amp battery charger. Because they only put out 13.6VDC they are known to boil batteries dry AND, with only a 6 amp charging circuit, they take a long time to recharge a battery.

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Old 02-22-2012, 11:11 PM   #20
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The positive side of house battery goes to a solenoid then to the convertor so the current is only flowing when motor is running. I used a test wire bypassing the solenoid and worked fine. Do I need the solenoid.
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:27 PM   #21
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Somebody hooked the positive on the house battery to solenoid. the other solenoid side goes to convertor. So I should have both battery positives going to solenoid so I would be able to use aux.start if needed. My old motorhome I wired up that way but this had me confused. thanks for all the help sure has saved me a lot.
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:29 AM   #22
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The description you are giving:
Quote:
Somebody hooked the positive on the house battery to solenoid. the other solenoid side goes to convertor.
implies the solinoid is a House Battery Disconnect Solinoid which is seperate from a Aux Battery Start Solinoid. Those are connected like that and are used to disconnect house battery from the system to help prevent discharge in storage.

The confusion comes in when you talk about the engine alternator voltage not being available to the converter side of the solinoid. That connection is normally on the converter side of a Battery Disconnet relay.

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