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Old 07-18-2012, 10:35 PM   #1
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Battery isolater help please 85 Pace Arrow

I bought myself a Trik-L-Trip, and it works great clamped directly to the batteries. The isolater is conveniently located right above the batteries, but none of the cables are labeled. I tried tracing them back, but the three cables disappear behind some stuff before they re-appear and connect to the batteries, making it incredibly hard to figure out which is which. Is there a trick to figuring out which cable goes to which battery beyond wiggling things and hoping it wiggles at the other end? Or is the placement standardized? I tried guessing and just hooking up the charger to different posts, but none of the lights came on so that was a failed experiment lol.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:25 AM   #2
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let me look this afternoon i hav a 1985 southwind (simular rv) ill get back
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:49 AM   #3
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check continuity

Continuity tester, most voltage meters have a setting.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:28 AM   #4
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Generally, the center post is from the alternator and has a smaller wire. The right is chassis and left coach battery. However, you can't rely on that do to all the mfgs that make/made them. Can you find a name or model number?

Do you have and can you use a multimeter? If not, there are other ways I can walk you through.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:33 AM   #5
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I would need a lot more info prior to being much help, but something I can share is that if that isolator has 3 similarly sized posts across the front of it, and it's not hooked up to anything, it may have been bypassed. It was found through extended service that they are not all that reliable, and simpler, less expensive circuits (relays) would do the job more efficiently?
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:23 PM   #6
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Thanks for the responses.

1. It is definitely connected and not bypassed
2. The brand name says Sure Power Products, Inc
3. All three posts seem to be the same size. I tried the chassis-left, house-right configuration and got nothing, when I tried reversing that I did get some spark on the left post, and the lights blinked a bit on the trik-l-start, but did not stay on or steady. The reverse polarity light did not come on.
4. Oddly enough, I do have a multimeter, but I don't really know how to use it. Got it out when I first set up the little charger but couldn't make heads or tails out of what to do with it in this situation. I do have a basic knowledge of DC systems from building odd little solar powered gadgets over the years, but I never really had to worry about anything more than watts vs. amp hours.

Also, just going to add that I am leaving in the morning for my first out of town trip with the new rig, I'll get to see how she handles on the mountain highways for a few days. I think I'll be boondocking unless I luck into shore power at the party I am going to, so it will be a good chance to work out more kinks. Haven't even touched the generator yet, but I really only need it for the microwave, and I can do without that for a weekend. I'll check back in when I return on Sunday.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #7
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I just bought a 1985 34' Pace arrow this last weekend and Im about to go work on it. I plan on taking alot of pictures of the inside and motor area... stay tuned!
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:28 AM   #8
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Still not sure what you have but see if this will help. The middle terminal is coming from the alternator. That's your charge line. If the engine isn't running that terminal/wire should have no power. The outside terminals should lead to your battery banks. One side motor, the other, coach. Makes no difference which is which.

To test the isolator and make sure it's working prior to proceeding much further, You can start the engine and make sure the center terminal has voltage (something around 13.5 would be great). The outside 2 terminals are measured with and without the engine running. When comparing the with/without readings, you should be seeing higher with the engine running. Again, 13.5v would be great.

To get your meter working as a continuity tester, turn it to ohms. Touch the leads together to see what it does when you have continuity.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ideagirl View Post
Thanks for the responses.

1. It is definitely connected and not bypassed
2. The brand name says Sure Power Products, Inc
3. All three posts seem to be the same size. I tried the chassis-left, house-right configuration and got nothing, when I tried reversing that I did get some spark on the left post, and the lights blinked a bit on the trik-l-start, but did not stay on or steady. The reverse polarity light did not come on.
4. Oddly enough, I do have a multimeter, but I don't really know how to use it. Got it out when I first set up the little charger but couldn't make heads or tails out of what to do with it in this situation. I do have a basic knowledge of DC systems from building odd little solar powered gadgets over the years, but I never really had to worry about anything more than watts vs. amp hours.

Also, just going to add that I am leaving in the morning for my first out of town trip with the new rig, I'll get to see how she handles on the mountain highways for a few days. I think I'll be boondocking unless I luck into shore power at the party I am going to, so it will be a good chance to work out more kinks. Haven't even touched the generator yet, but I really only need it for the microwave, and I can do without that for a weekend. I'll check back in when I return on Sunday.
Ok try this. First drain the chassis battery a bit, engine off, headlights on for 5-10 min. Now plug into shore power. Ground the Trik-L-Start good near the isolator. Take the yellow wire and attach to left side post. Then connect the blue wire to the right side post. If the posts are correct, the Trik-L-Start will indicate chassis battery charging. If not, reverse the blue and yellow wires.
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:15 PM   #10
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awesome, that did the trip, thanks for your help. I think when I tried it a few days ago I didn't have a good ground, because this time it fired right up. I attached the ground to one of the negative terminals on a house battery, will that be ok there?

The new rig ran great this weekend, took the 6% grade fully loaded at 45 without losing any power. /the only casualty appears to be my blower motor, the dash air had cool air, but no blower. Don't think I can tackle that one by myself, going to have to read up on it.
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:37 PM   #11
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Yep, NEG battery terminal is just fine.

Blower motor *could* be a fuse or a faulty switch..... Check those first.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:46 PM   #12
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cool, thanks for the tip!
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