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Old 06-10-2012, 03:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by LSC9901
A couple of personal thoughts ...... pre '93 generally means 3 speed transmission, carbs and about 8-10% less MPG's. Tires alone can be expensive. Six of them can be anywhere between $1500 and $2500 or more.
Three speed versus a four speed...... I get about 8.5-9 mpg on the highway and about 5-6 city. From all that I have read, most gas powered class A's seem to be in that range. Do you have a newer motor home with an overdrive trans? What is you mileage? I only ask because I have debated swapping my TH400 for an overdrive unit, but I want to make sure that the saving will cover the cost.

Tire prices vary greatly as well depending on load rating, size, quality etc, etc. My motor home has 16" wheels and a set of six out the door, mounted, balanced and installed with road hazard is $1,050. If you get newer motor home with 19.5" or 22" wheels then the cost is more.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Winnebeater

Three speed versus a four speed...... I get about 8.5-9 mpg on the highway and about 5-6 city. From all that I have read, most gas powered class A's seem to be in that range. Do you have a newer motor home with an overdrive trans? What is you mileage? I only ask because I have debated swapping my TH400 for an overdrive unit, but I want to make sure that the saving will cover the cost.

Tire prices vary greatly as well depending on load rating, size, quality etc, etc. My motor home has 16" wheels and a set of six out the door, mounted, balanced and installed with road hazard is $1,050. If you get newer motor home with 19.5" or 22" wheels then the cost is more.
So you get this kind of mileage with the banks system as well or is this before u put the banks exhaust etc on?
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:33 PM   #31
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So you get this kind of mileage with the banks system as well or is this before u put the banks exhaust etc on?
Don't know. We bought the motor home with the Banks kit already installed. My in-laws have a 1986 Itasca Windcruiser same chassis as ours and they are claiming that they get similar mileage without the banks kit. However they don't stand a chance on steep grades. We had to keep slowing down for them on the last trip over the Grapevine in California.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:44 PM   #32
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Don't know. We bought the motor home with the Banks kit already installed. My in-laws have a 1986 Itasca Windcruiser same chassis as ours and they are claiming that they get similar mileage without the banks kit. However they don't stand a chance on steep grades. We had to keep slowing down for them on the last trip over the Grapevine in California.
Ya i've heard that alot of people never see better mileage but the power increase is quite good. I am buying the thorely tri y headers ceramic coated inside and out,try that first and see how they work.
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:55 PM   #33
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My only caution is about pre-1990 rigs. Most of them will have carburators (a French irregular verb meaning "leave well enough alone"). We had an 85 Class C with the Ford 460 and it was VERY expensive to maintain.

I've had nothing but trouble with Fords but I do own a Ford pickup. I have an 86 Winnebago Elandan that's got a 454 with carb that I paid $2800 tax/liscense for. It runs great, plenty of power on the hills in Pa.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:35 PM   #34
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I've had nothing but trouble with Fords but I do own a Ford pickup. I have an 86 Winnebago Elandan that's got a 454 with carb that I paid $2800 tax/liscense for. It runs great, plenty of power on the hills in Pa.
I second that. Ours is on a GM chassis too. So far it has been great, it hesitated quite a bit on our first couple of trips, but I just added a heavy concentration of fuel system cleaner and it cleared up after we ran about a tank and half through it. Periodically we tow a 2600lb car behind us and I can't even tell it's there. Not bad for mid 80's technology.
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:45 AM   #35
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I have a 1981 Warrior that has a 4 barrel 350 with a 400 and 4.11's in the rear end and 16.5's.Sure has me wondering what they where thinking when they put in only a 190 hp 350,but it has saved my butt a number of times as a back-up when my daily driver has had issues.I am not sure if the gas gauge works correctly 1/4 and down because I have pressed my luck afew times and it never ran out of gas going to my shop which is 15 miles away.Best guess is it does get out standing gas mileage.Maybe in the order of 12 miles per gallon.I have never yet filled the tank and I am guessing it does have a really big tank.I am at some point going to have to do something about the 190 hp 350 because I am going to want to tow my 12' dual axle enclosed trailer with it.

In terms of which RV is the best,my two cents is none.Fact is all of them are thinly walled cheap as you can get built M/H's.I remember the ad yrs ago of a Winnie cabled upside down being dropped on it's roof.Now I have scraped off the ceiling in prep for a roof leak and the is no way in God's imagination given the roof bows that I found I would ever do that to my M/H.The walls are the outside sheeting to blue board to very thin 1/4 plywood to whatever is covering it.The manufactures would tell you it is to keep the wt down.Fact is it is way to keep the costs down.And all of them are the same.Ever see one after a wreck??. Almost all are totaled.

One M/H that are hard to find at a decent price is the Tiger 16' Astro based XL's or any Astro based M/H.Nice rig for a small unit that with a in tune 4.3 will give you 16 mpg.It's that feature that keeps them in high demand.The 4.3's do have more power than the VW's of the same size,but because of the wt of the rig loaded are limited to towing only say a empty row boat and trailer.The Tiger M/H's have a heavier concentration of availability out west like Seattle where their factory once was.Nothing left of parts from Tiger anymore.They have moved on in their builds and don't even have the molds any longer.But that isn't any big deal because that is true of most older M/H's.

This is a Tiger:



And this is a Allegro which I think is a 18 or 20':

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Old 06-15-2012, 09:46 AM   #36
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I have an 89 Southwind with a 454 & Quadrajet, 6.5-8 mpg depending on grade & wind. I sometimes flirt with the idea of a more modern rig, then i read about
ECM codes & OD tranny problems,coach electrical load managment & transfer relay problems. I know all RVs have problems but the newer ones seem to start at about a $1000 & go up from there. I can get a rebuilt TH400 for about a Grand,SMI will super tune the carb for about $350,roof airs are about$700-800.
No slides to leak or jam, think I'll keep the old bus rolling a little longer.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:40 PM   #37
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I have an 89 Southwind with a 454 & Quadrajet, 6.5-8 mpg depending on grade & wind. I sometimes flirt with the idea of a more modern rig, then i read about
ECM codes & OD tranny problems,coach electrical load managment & transfer relay problems. I know all RVs have problems but the newer ones seem to start at about a $1000 & go up from there. I can get a rebuilt TH400 for about a Grand,SMI will super tune the carb for about $350,roof airs are about$700-800.
No slides to leak or jam, think I'll keep the old bus rolling a little longer.
Ya if you're mechanically inclined,you at least have a chance of fixing a pre fuel injected MH...
On the new ones, when a sensor goes it will leave u stranded some time and no way to fix it anyhow without the proper scaning tools.. but on these older ones u can figure out the issue ptetty quick usually.
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:12 PM   #38
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I've used craigslist several times, my wife buying "antique" (as in old furniture) and myself, in the past 2 years I've sold 2 vehicles, and purchased 2.

Just Friday I finalized the sale of my silverado SS. Guy drove up from Kansas City, paid cash near my asking price.

I've gotten a LOT of calls where the first thing they say is "what's the least you'll take for it?" I either bitch em out or hang up on em, or if I'm in a good mood, remind them what my asking price is.

I've zero experience with "scammers." I think most buyers are "flippers." They are looking for a bargain with the intention of immediately selling for a profit.

To sell something, it has to be priced right, as in cheap. Price too high, you get no calls.
Never put your actual email address in the ad. Put your cel phone in, but write out many of the numbers. Better yet, get a prepaid "throw away" cel phone. And cash rules.
If they ask you on the phone what is your cheapest price you can respond with "Can you get a haircut over the phone?" that normally blows the lookie lou's off.
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:16 PM   #39
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Ya if you're mechanically inclined,you at least have a chance of fixing a pre fuel injected MH...
I've had both. OBD I and OBD II are easy to fix when you have a code reader because it tells you where to look for the problem. I would never go back to carbureted.
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:16 PM   #40
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I've had both. OBD I and OBD II are easy to fix when you have a code reader because it tells you where to look for the problem. I would never go back to carbureted.
Most all sensors are pretty basic as well. Most OBD2 stuff is three wires, 5VDC, Ground, and output. Basic OBD2 scanners can be bought for around $50-$100, pull the code, test the sensor and/ or circuit in question. Pre computer stuff is easy though too. I think it is just about understanding the basic operating principles on what your working on.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:10 PM   #41
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1988 Safari 460 ford GV under over got for $4200.00 of Craigs list been great only bad is paint is bad interior is perfect.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:43 PM   #42
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mbmalone - wow, you really have a low budget. One of the best RVs of that era that I have experience with and would maybe be in your budget was a 25' class C on a Chevy chassis. We rented it from Cruise America. Why do I pick that one out. The ease of driving it and the handling were really exceptional. You might be able to find an early Bounder. These are great motor homes. We have several old ones in our RV club and they run mostly forever.
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