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Old 01-24-2008, 06:51 PM   #1
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I HAVE A 1993 WARRIOR 22' WINNEBAGO
AND WANT TO KNOW HOW TO ASK FOR PART LIKE BRAKES
IT IS A CHEVY CHASSIS
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Old 01-24-2008, 06:51 PM   #2
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I HAVE A 1993 WARRIOR 22' WINNEBAGO
AND WANT TO KNOW HOW TO ASK FOR PART LIKE BRAKES
IT IS A CHEVY CHASSIS
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:26 AM   #3
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OK---from a former RV parts manager

First if it is a Class C- (with the overhead bunk) you have a Chevrolet G-30 or basically a one ton van chassis.

If it is the style where you enter through a side entry door --- it is a P30 -- most of these parts can be sourced out at any Napa or Workhorse dealer.
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:43 AM   #4
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Mine is a 1981.You can contact GM and they with a vin number serach it and send you the spec's for the MH.I don't remember if it costs anything or what I paid,but that is where I got my new brakes for it.
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Old 01-26-2008, 05:38 PM   #5
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Checker Auto has them for the P-30 Chassis. Thats where I got mine at. Go with the Ceramics, they cost more but last longer and run quieter. Along with the pads Get a wire brush and clean the track that the Capiler slides in and coat with something like brake lube or anti-seize. And one other thing, The Chevy P-30 manual says to bled and flush the brake fluid every two years!! I would take that as some issue that will arise and bite us unless we do that. I have done the above and I have great braking with full pedal. Good luck and welcome to the forum,
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:48 PM   #6
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thank you brian for the info
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:15 AM   #7
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Every 2 years might be too long. The DOT 3 fluid has agents to absorb moisture and indicate they have done so by turning darker. I wouldn't let mine get past a dark honey color before bleeding out the entire system. The alternative is moisture can build up and cause rust in the system, eventually causing mechanical failure. This also is the cause of many spongy brakes even when you've got the air out of the line. water has a different compression rate than brake fluid. If you've never done this and it looks as dark as your morning brew, it's way past time. Dot 3 actually draws moisture in(and it disperses evenly throughout the system).

You can switch to dot 5(silicone) but it does not draw moisture in. It will actually allow moisture to collect in the lowest spot. If there is no moisture in the system to begin with, this is never an issue. If there is moisture and your brake cylinder vaporises the water boiling at 212(adjusted for pressure) you can theoretically have a cylinder lock-up. Personally I prefer to clean out the entire system(off the vehicle bore cylinders, etc) and go back in with DOT 5. But I'm well aware of proper care.

There's also a new DOT 5.1 (Not silicone but similar to the DOT 3 that's supposed to be better) but I've not had the time to research it yet.

Hopefully that doesn't confuse you. Learn a bit more about them and you'll feel safer making any changes, or keeping what you've got.
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:23 PM   #8
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Is PartsMGR Brian still at Arlington R.V. ?
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:20 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by WhyNot:
Is PartsMGR Brian still at Arlington R.V. ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No longer--- RV business is very tough- downsizing . The new guy there is good- He has alot of automotive experience.
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