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Old 05-12-2012, 06:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
If you think about it I almost always reference the documentation for a device to explain something. Given that there are dozens of different fridges out there, what make model of fridge? However, gfs1943 is correct that a RV fridge basically makes no noise. It is reffered to as an absorbtion process that does not use a compressor. There is a boiler section where the refridgerent (basically amonia) is heated (propane or electric heating element) to the boiling point which circulates the refridgerent through the system. One of the RV Techs who post on this site posted a great blog here on IRV2 about how the absorbtion process works if you want to learn about it. Oh, a 12VDC control board is used so you can run it on propane when 110VAC is not available. It also controls the 110VAC heating element.

Oh, please replace that GFCI recepticle at some point rather than jump around it. It is worth the safety it provides. At least you know know what it affects.

Dave
Now that the electrical issues are out of the way I can go back to finishing the bathroom and the dinette areas.
Gotta install the new vanity which will have the GFCI outlet in it and the corner ceiling vent fan and the new ceiling and finally the new toilet, all that was put on hold when the electric issues and lack of airconditioning put a stop to it all

Thanks again for all your help
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:33 PM   #16
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Check the GFCI

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Got my new ATS301 auto transfer switch installed, all new Circuit breakers and C/B bridge and a new cooling fan installed and am looking to find my last electrical problem.
Here is the situation, which has me slightly confused
When I finished all the above stuff, I plugged the RV into my house and one by one turned on the circuit breakers and ran all around with my Handy dandy Fluke brand Voltage tester
Main on, nothing anywhere except to the transfer switch
First 20 amp on, only the rear ac unit would work
Second 20 amp on, the front ac would work and to my surprise the microwave and the range hood both worked
First 15 amp on, power down to the 110V outlets on right side of the RV and the outlets on either side of the bed
second 15 amp on nothing changed
In my other thread Jim_Hitek suggested I check the patio outlet which I did and found it is dead also, as are the two 110 volt outlets on the left side forward of the kitchen, over the couch on the bottom of the overhead cabinets
The refrigerator works on either electric or LP gas, is the electric 12V or 110V?
Please de-unconfuse me
Jim suggested I pull that patio outlet and check, it may be part of the other dead outlets chain
Check GFCI, it may need reset. It will cause loss of 110 voltage on one side.

For example I loaned my rv to friend. they used to many electrical denies , hair dryer coffee maker act. Overloaded circuit and GFCI blew. I reset and all was fine.
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
I thought there would be a light or something come on to let you know it's working.
I'm thinking that one or both of those 12v fuses on the back might be bad, or have corroded and lost their connection
Once you put the fridge on AC power, after a few minutes, you should be able to put your hand on the flue (accessible from the outside fridge compartment door), and feel it getting warm. If it isn't warm, you have a bad fuse, or a bad heat element, or a bad control board (all provided you have 110 power to the outlet).

I just replaced the heating element in mine (today in fact), and installed 2 fans at the top of the "chimney" to help draw cool air over the coils. The fridge dropped 20 degrees in just under 3 hours !!! It has never worked that well !!! Can't wait to see how cold it is in the morning.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:59 AM   #18
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
If you think about it I almost always reference the documentation for a device to explain something. Given that there are dozens of different fridges out there, what make model of fridge? However, gfs1943 is correct that a RV fridge basically makes no noise. It is reffered to as an absorbtion process that does not use a compressor. There is a boiler section where the refridgerent (basically amonia) is heated (propane or electric heating element) to the boiling point which circulates the refridgerent through the system. One of the RV Techs who post on this site posted a great blog here on IRV2 about how the absorbtion process works if you want to learn about it. Oh, a 12VDC control board is used so you can run it on propane when 110VAC is not available. It also controls the 110VAC heating element.

Oh, please replace that GFCI recepticle at some point rather than jump around it. It is worth the safety it provides. At least you know know what it affects.

Dave
My wife wants me to determine if the fridge works or not before I start back on the bathroom

Our fridge is a Norcold model 462 two way type (Both AC and Gas).
We checked those two fuses, According to my wire diagram One is a 3 amp for DC controls when running on gas, the other is a 5 amp for running on electric. The fuses both looked OK, Not sure how to check if power is in there or passing thru the fuse, they are those black 1/4 turn click in holders with long glass fuses in them. Almost impossible to get your hands on since they are right behind all the gas lines.

Here is what I have determined at this time,
I have 110V power going into the fridge
I have removed and inspected both fuses
The interior light does not work, I cannot get the plastic cover off to check the bulb
I have the Elec/Off/Gas switch set to electric
The thermostat is set to full cold
If I turn the ignitor switch on, it lights up green and the little light next to it flash's
The seperator bar between the freezer and fridge does not get warm
The fridge does not get cold

The pictures below are all I can see where is the burner that gets warm when the fridge is on Elec.?
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:17 AM   #20
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Ref Document: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/n400.pdf

This is an older model fridge that does not use a "control board" like todays modern units. Nothing wrong with that it just means functions are broken apart a bit. It also means 12VDC "is not" used to control AC operation. 12VDC "is only" used in Gas Mode (for relighter).

This is a 2-way fridge that only has LP gas and 120VAC modes.
The gas ignitor switch is only used when the Mode selector switch is set to GAS. Leave Gas Ignitor in OFF position when set to ELEC. The ignitor switch controls the lp gas relighter module which is only used to initially light the pilot light or relight it if it blows out. Think in terms of the lighter assembly used in a Bar-B-Que gas gril lighter. Wiring diagram on pdf page 22.

The Combination Switch (Thermostat & Mode switches) also contains the gas valve and is the "brains" of the unit.
Electric mode - 110VAC goes through 5 amp fuse to Combination valve (thermostat) then to heater element and back to wall plug. Fairly simple design. So simple it's no more difficult than your fan in the converter.

Gas mode - As I said the gas valve is built into the combination valve. There is a thermocouple for the pilot light and a capillary tube for fridge temperature sense. The gas side is more akin to a standard pilot light operated gas system. The 12VDC relighter section and the electrode are seperate from the combo valve (operates completly independently of combo valve) and are only use to to light the pilot light or sense it has blown out and relight the pilot light.

All of this electrical stuff is combined onto a single "control board" on newer style fridges.

Dave
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
The pictures below are all I can see where is the burner that gets warm when the fridge is on Elec.?
If you look in the first pic you posted, the round, vertical, metal "tube" on the far right is the heater. The gas burner is on the bottom, and on the left side, inside the outer metal casing, there should be a long metal electrode (electric heater) attached to the burner. You'll have to remove the outer protective cover (and maybe a little insulation) to see it, BUT before you do that, you should be able to see a couple of wires (and maybe the top of the electrode) coming out of the side of the burner chamber. This will give you an idea of where to start looking.

When working off 110, the burner chamber should be warm to the touch. Actually, it'll be warm whether working off 110 or gas, you just can't have both working at the same time.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
Ref Document: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/n400.pdf

This is an older model fridge that does not use a "control board" like todays modern units. Nothing wrong with that it just means functions are broken apart a bit. It also means 12VDC "is not" used to control AC operation. 12VDC "is only" used in Gas Mode (for relighter).

This is a 2-way fridge that only has LP gas and 120VAC modes.
The gas ignitor switch is only used when the Mode selector switch is set to GAS. Leave Gas Ignitor in OFF position when set to ELEC. The ignitor switch controls the lp gas relighter module which is only used to initially light the pilot light or relight it if it blows out. Think in terms of the lighter assembly used in a Bar-B-Que gas gril lighter. Wiring diagram on pdf page 22.

The Combination Switch (Thermostat & Mode switches) also contains the gas valve and is the "brains" of the unit.
Electric mode - 110VAC goes through 5 amp fuse to Combination valve (thermostat) then to heater element and back to wall plug. Fairly simple design. So simple it's no more difficult than your fan in the converter.

Gas mode - As I said the gas valve is built into the combination valve. There is a thermocouple for the pilot light and a capillary tube for fridge temperature sense. The gas side is more akin to a standard pilot light operated gas system. The 12VDC relighter section and the electrode are seperate from the combo valve (operates completly independently of combo valve) and are only use to to light the pilot light or sense it has blown out and relight the pilot light.

All of this electrical stuff is combined onto a single "control board" on newer style fridges.

Dave
Morning Dave,
I have power coming from the 110V outlet down thru the power cord, it goes into the back of the fridge and another wire coming out of the back of the fridge goes into the fridge again just to the left of the two fuses. You can see my tester lite up on those wires. The right fuse is the 5 amp AC fuse. If I touch the tester to the fuse holder cap it lights up indicating power is there, but the two wires just above that fuse are dead. It appears to me there is power to the fuse but not passing thru. We pulled that fuse yesterday and visually it looks perfect, we, (unfortunatly) did not do a continuity check of that fuse itself.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:14 AM   #23
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I have that same refrigerator. I would guess you need to check the coil that is located in the same metal box that the gas heater flame is located. It should be a low resistance 10 ohms or less. Is the ELEC side of the rotating switch facing up? and if it is, is the thermostat turned all the way clockwise? I'll try and work you through this. Does the gas part of it work?
Edit: There is switch on the back of the GAS/ELEC knob. You will be able to see this by taking off the front brown plastic panel behind the knobs. about 3 years ago I smelled gas coming from the refrigerator Long story short the local RV dealer replaced the gas valve for free under a manufactures warranty. Now that I think about it pull that panel and see if there is anything burnt looking underneath. Also those 2 black wires above the fuse on the right, go to the 120volt heating coil.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:53 AM   #24
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I have that same refrigerator. I would guess you need to check the coil that is located in the same metal box that the gas heater flame is located. It should be a low resistance 10 ohms or less. Is the ELEC side of the rotating switch facing up? and if it is, is the thermostat turned all the way clockwise? I'll try and work you through this. Does the gas part of it work?
Edit: There is switch on the back of the GAS/ELEC knob. You will be able to see this by taking off the front brown plastic panel behind the knobs. about 3 years ago I smelled gas coming from the refrigerator Long story short the local RV dealer replaced the gas valve for free under a manufactures warranty. Now that I think about it pull that panel and see if there is anything burnt looking underneath. Also those 2 black wires above the fuse on the right, go to the 120volt heating coil.
To Start, I pulled the 5 amp fuse and checked it for continuity, it is fine, I cleaned both ends and the holder as best I could and reinstalled it.

Those two black lines above the fuse should have power in them, correct? and if they do not?????

I still have power to the fuse and nothing in the wires going up to the heater

In looking at my wire diagram the power goes thru the 5 amp fuse to the (Gas/Off/Elec) switch then thru the thermostat and then out to the heater. If I am understanding you and the diagram correctly, the issue might be behind the panel as you have suggested.

I did remove the cover from the lightbulb inside the fridge, it was burnt out and one of the wires going to bulb panel was rusted and had broken off. My diagram does not say but I assume that is a 12V bulb.
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:08 AM   #25
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Rather than try to describe the how to here, please refer to the step by step troubleshooting procedure starting on pdf page 15 (3-15) of the manual. I simply cannot provide you with better details than what they provide. You have already done the first few steps. The information on pdf page 2 says you have 300 AC watt unit so the 41 ohm reading is for yours (steps 14-18). You only have a 2-way unit so the 3-way AC/DC selection switch info does not apply.

Also, please understand it takes at least 3 hours for an absorbtion style fridge to cool down.

Dave
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:19 AM   #26
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GFCI designed to protect humans from shock, installed six feet from water (ie sinks) and to all outside recepticles. Electrical code. GFCI usually can handle five downsteam recepticles. You can replace all downsteam recepticles with GFCI and then the one that trips is the one that trips. Install in parallel, not in series.
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:53 AM   #27
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Rather than try to describe the how to here, please refer to the step by step troubleshooting procedure starting on pdf page 15 (3-15) of the manual. I simply cannot provide you with better details than what they provide. You have already done the first few steps. The information on pdf page 2 says you have 300 AC watt unit so the 41 ohm reading is for yours (steps 14-18). You only have a 2-way unit so the 3-way AC/DC selection switch info does not apply.

Also, please understand it takes at least 3 hours for an absorbtion style fridge to cool down.

Dave
Unfortunatly my manual does not have a troubleshooting guide. But I did have some successes
I removed that lower front panel and saw that big valve with gas lines in the front, tiny coolant lines in the rear of it and two electrical lines. One of them was hot, the other not, So I made a jumper, unplugged the wires and jumped them together, I now have power going across and back to one of those two black wires going up to the heater and the heater is actually starting to warm up, it has been running for about 15 minutes now and it is quite warm to the touch
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:57 PM   #28
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Unfortunatly my manual does not have a troubleshooting guide. But I did have some successes
I removed that lower front panel and saw that big valve with gas lines in the front, tiny coolant lines in the rear of it and two electrical lines. One of them was hot, the other not, So I made a jumper, unplugged the wires and jumped them together, I now have power going across and back to one of those two black wires going up to the heater and the heater is actually starting to warm up, it has been running for about 15 minutes now and it is quite warm to the touch
It's been running for over an hour, all the big pipes and tanks on the backside is very warm to hot, and when we opened the freezer to see if it was cooling we could faintly smell ammonia, so I shut it off.
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