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Old 05-13-2012, 01:09 PM   #29
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Before you started this did it run ok on propane? Also what was it you jumped? If you jumped the thermostat, not a good idea, you'll have a runaway problem with the heater and could cause other problems.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:35 PM   #30
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Before you started this did it run ok on propane? Also what was it you jumped? If you jumped the thermostat, not a good idea, you'll have a runaway problem with the heater and could cause other problems.
I have never had it running before, I bought it as a project, it was sitting for four years, it is turning out to be a much bigger project then we ever anticipated.

Yes I jumped the thermostat combination controller, that was the first time I ever saw anything on it working. I guess the heating up and causing the ammonia to expand caused it to leak, we can only smell it in the freezer

In looking at the Norcold troubleshhooting guide for this model which I found online I was supposed to have 120V on both of the wires on the combination control if I did not the instructions simply says to replace the controller. I only had voltage on one line.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:53 PM   #31
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You do realize I provided a link to the repair manual right?

First the real bad news. Ammonia smell means the closed fluid cooling system is leaking. That is not repairable. You can only replace the system at a cost of about $500 (462 Norcold Cooling Unit - RV Cooling Unit Warehouse). Used fridge are a bit cheaper than new. Lots of online searching for used fridge. New fridge is around $1000 or more. No, your model is no longer made.

For 120VAC operation, the combination valve assembly simply acts as 2 ON/OFF switches. The Mode (GAS/OFF/ELEC) is essentially a simple ON/OFF switch. The thermostat is just a ON/OFF switch based on temeperature. By jumpering the 2 wires on the combination valve you just turned both switches ON providing power to the heater element.

You missed what I said before about this is not a compressor based system. Here is links to how a RV Fridge works:RV Mobile, RV and Gas Refrigerators. Lots of info there about how it works, troubleshoot, replace cooling unit, etc.

Those are not cooling lines. One is the temperature sensing bulb for the thermostat. The other is the thermocouple for a pilot light. Think in 1950's old timer terms with a pilot model household water heater. You know, use a match to lightthe pilot light.

Dave
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:58 PM   #32
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You do realize I provided a link to the repair manual right?

First the real bad news. Ammonia smell means the closed fluid cooling system is leaking. That is not repairable. You can only replace the system at a cost of about $500 (462 Norcold Cooling Unit - RV Cooling Unit Warehouse). Used fridge are a bit cheaper than new. Lots of online searching for used fridge. New fridge is around $1000 or more. No, your model is no longer made.

For 120VAC operation, the combination valve assembly simply acts as 2 ON/OFF switches. The Mode (GAS/OFF/ELEC) is essentially a simple ON/OFF switch. The thermostat is just a ON/OFF switch based on temeperature. By jumpering the 2 wires on the combination valve you just turned both switches ON providing power to the heater element.

You missed what I said before about this is not a compressor based system. Here is links to how a RV Fridge works:RV Mobile, RV and Gas Refrigerators. Lots of info there about how it works, troubleshoot, replace cooling unit, etc.

Those are not cooling lines. One is the temperature sensing bulb for the thermostat. The other is the thermocouple for a pilot light. Think in 1950's old timer terms with a pilot model household water heater. You know, use a match to lightthe pilot light.

Dave
I followed the link you sent for the repair manual and I have a sort of understanding how the darn thing works,. I know it does not have a compressor. The elec/off/gas switch or the thermostat is part is bad, I just went around them and turned it on, and after it heated up we smelled ammonia. I figured right then it was toast.
I can buy an actual refrigerator almost the same dimensions at Brands Mart for less then 300 bucks. I don't need the gas part. Everyone I know with an RV never uses the gas part. My pal across the street has a bad one and he uses it like an ice box and just throws a couple bags of dry ice in it to keep the beer, soda, hot dogs and burgers cold.
it's a shame there is a leak, I thoughtI had it going and I was so happy to trace down the bad part. As we used to say, Bummer Dude.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:42 AM   #33
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If you think about it I almost always reference the documentation for a device to explain something. Given that there are dozens of different fridges out there, what make model of fridge? However, gfs1943 is correct that a RV fridge basically makes no noise. It is reffered to as an absorbtion process that does not use a compressor. There is a boiler section where the refridgerent (basically amonia) is heated (propane or electric heating element) to the boiling point which circulates the refridgerent through the system. One of the RV Techs who post on this site posted a great blog here on IRV2 about how the absorbtion process works if you want to learn about it. Oh, a 12VDC control board is used so you can run it on propane when 110VAC is not available. It also controls the 110VAC heating element.

Oh, please replace that GFCI recepticle at some point rather than jump around it. It is worth the safety it provides. At least you know know what it affects.

Dave
Hey Dave,
The fridge is on the back burner now that I know it is Kaput.
Here is a pic of the new GFCI. It is temp installed in the front of the new vanity cabinet. I can do nothing with that until my wife picks out the sink and tub/shower faucettes she wants, That is the type of GFCI that has a little green led light in it so you know it is on.

I'll be putzing around doing this and that in the meantime until I hit another brick wall with this project RV, but I will be lurking and adding my two cents if I know something that someone may ask.
Later Dude
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:11 PM   #34
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I know at this point it seems shall we say daunting and frustrating however, you have learned one heck of a lot about RV's. Most of it applies from RV to RV so as long as you are a die hard RV'r you'll be ahead of the game.

Dave
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #35
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This won't help the OP but my fridge was acting up after we bought the MH a couple years ago. The green reset light on the control panel would come on intermittently meaning the fridge did not work since the propane did not light.

Finally traced it down to carbon and crud that had come down the pipe where the thermocouple is for the burner. It was piled up on the line and thermocouple so I cleaned it off and it works fine now. Knock on wood!
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #36
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I know at this point it seems shall we say daunting and frustrating however, you have learned one heck of a lot about RV's. Most of it applies from RV to RV so as long as you are a die hard RV'r you'll be ahead of the game.

Dave
Now that I have done all this electrical work, the elctrical box does not hum as loud nor does not get as warm as it used to get, so the fan never kicks on.
It works great tho, I can make it come on by heating the side of the box the thermo switch is on with a hair dryer. I guess I can button it all up now and lower the bed and get on with the rest of my repairs and updates.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:11 PM   #37
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Was there some wires at the rear of the bed (hinge end) you had an issue with or am I getting confused?

Dave
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #38
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Was there some wires at the rear of the bed (hinge end) you had an issue with or am I getting confused?

Dave
OMG I forgot about that wire. It is one of the wires going to the water pump

Thanks for reminding me
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