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04-22-2013, 10:59 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bartow Florida
Posts: 6
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Chassis Battery not charging
I own a 1987 Fleetwood Bounder, 7.4L (454) V8 on a P30 Chevy Chassis. Only 21,500 miles and runs well except the alternator is not charging the battery. After some troubleshooting when starting the engine their is only 12.65 volts at the battery but 14.6 voilts at the alternator. I've traced the problem to a "mystery" device on the fire wall:
The top terminal connects to the house battery, the center terminal to the alternator, the bottom terminal to the chassis battery. Their are two additional smaller wires one on the top terminal, one on the bottom.
Any ideas what it is? No markings, no labels, no nameplate.
__________________
Don & Martha
1987 Bounder 33
Chevy 454 (7.4L) V8
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04-22-2013, 11:10 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tampa Area (sometimes!)
Posts: 620
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I don't recognize that particular device but I bet it is some electronic version of an Isolator Relay Delay. See this link for a version made by Intellitech - Battery Isolators - Battery Switches - Intellitec MV
Your alternator can't just be connected to both your chassis and coach batteries simultaneously. You need some sort of interface to make sure it charges the right battery at the right time. I'm betting this device, whatever it is, is not working properly.
__________________
Randy and Tina & fur baby - Cinnamon
2020 Tiffin Wayfarer RW
Mercedes Benz 2019 Sprinter Chassis
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04-22-2013, 11:15 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Foley AL
Posts: 7,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyates773
I own a 1987 Fleetwood Bounder, 7.4L (454) V8 on a P30 Chevy Chassis. Only 21,500 miles and runs well except the alternator is not charging the battery. After some troubleshooting when starting the engine their is only 12.65 volts at the battery but 14.6 voilts at the alternator. I've traced the problem to a "mystery" device on the fire wall:
The top terminal connects to the house battery, the center terminal to the alternator, the bottom terminal to the chassis battery. Their are two additional smaller wires one on the top terminal, one on the bottom. Attachment 37356
Any ideas what it is? No markings, no labels, no nameplate.
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Doesn't look familiar. With Alternator, Chassis bat, and House bat connections it "sounds" like a BIRD (bi-directional relay device). The separate terminal at the end might be a pick or signal ... does it have voltage applied? However, a BIRD is usually parallel and not serially in the bat/alternator chain. Can the black material be removed for a peek at what's under it?
__________________
2005 Newmar Essex 4502, 2013 Caddy SRX
1997 HR Endeavor 37, CAT, 1996 Geo Tracker
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04-22-2013, 12:55 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,423
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Same in my 1985 I had bad connections there cleaned them it worked ok then they can go out
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04-22-2013, 01:02 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyates773
I own a 1987 Fleetwood Bounder, 7.4L (454) V8 on a P30 Chevy Chassis. Only 21,500 miles and runs well except the alternator is not charging the battery. After some troubleshooting when starting the engine their is only 12.65 volts at the battery but 14.6 voilts at the alternator. I've traced the problem to a "mystery" device on the fire wall:
The top terminal connects to the house battery, the center terminal to the alternator, the bottom terminal to the chassis battery. Their are two additional smaller wires one on the top terminal, one on the bottom. Attachment 37356
Any ideas what it is? No markings, no labels, no nameplate.
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Here is a picture of a Cole Hersee Isolator. This particular one is specific to the type of alternator I'm running...a CS series Delco on my 901/2 Bounder. I just ordered this this morning. There are variations of this particular one.
The one in YOUR photo looks to be a copy or at least similar.
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Ed
2000 Pace Arrow Vision 36B
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04-22-2013, 01:15 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bartow Florida
Posts: 6
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Ed, you got it! I checked the upper small wire on the unit & it is switched to the ignition. Where did you find the isolator? Cost?
__________________
Don & Martha
1987 Bounder 33
Chevy 454 (7.4L) V8
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04-22-2013, 01:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyates773
Ed, you got it! I checked the upper small wire on the unit & it is switched to the ignition. Where did you find the isolator? Cost?
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On ebay...search this...
200 AMP COLE HERSEE MULTI BATTERY ISOLATOR EXCITER NEW
$101...free shipping. American made by the way.
__________________
Ed
2000 Pace Arrow Vision 36B
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04-22-2013, 01:49 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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What you have is a battery isolater. It is a heatsink with three large diodes.
it allows voltage to go into the battery but not out. You need to check the small leads for voltage. Maybe someone who has the paperwork can give you advice on checking it out. If the diode is burned out, it will have to be replaced.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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04-22-2013, 02:03 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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If you want to do a quick check, crank the engine, check the center lead for 13+ voltage. check the small wire for 12 volts. Then check the outer large wires for 13+ volts. If you have 13 volts on the center wire and 12 volts on the small wire and no voltage on the two outer wires, the diodes are bad. If you have no voltage on the small wire, the isolater is not turning on. All you need to do is get 12 volts to the small wire.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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08-03-2013, 04:28 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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Question??? Do you have a power converter with both breaker switches and fuses? If so you might check to make sure a fuse hasn't blown or breaker switch didn't trip. Usually located in your overhead cabinets by the drivers seat.
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08-03-2013, 04:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 893
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You might also have bad isolator.
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