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Old 06-09-2010, 09:52 AM   #1
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Question Circuit Troubleshooting & Running New Wires

Hello Fellow Vintage Fans,
We're into the latter stages of getting Titanic ready for the road and chasing down a few 12v circuits that don't work. I have the wiring diagram from Fleetwood (Dontcha' love it when a manufacturer still supports a 25-year-old product!) and have run into a dead end. I've traced the circuits as far as I could and haven't found the fault. I know the grounds are good because when I connect a 12v jumper wire to the devices they work.

I'm planning on just running some new hot wires to the nonworking devices, but am stuck on where to route them so they are safe and not visible. The way that Fleetwood ran circuits back in the day was to come out of the power center and into raceways in the floor on both sides of the coach. Then they branched off up through the walls and, in some cases, through channels routed in the roof insulating foam. The roof foam is just too dense to push through a wiring snake, so I'd have to follow channels already there if they went in the right directions, which they don't....

I just wondered if any of you have already faced this task and found some good ways to run new circuits?


(We call our motorhome "Titanic" because it was raised from the watery grave of a cracked block.)
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Dave & Marilyn - Southern Wisconsin
1985 33' Pace Arrow "Titanic", 454+.040", Thorley Tri-Y
Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:35 AM   #2
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I have been known to use ac ducts as well as heater ducts to run in circuits that could not otherwise have been run. Mostly now, I find someplace under the rig. Remember to put all wires into split loom to protect from chafing after installation.. Then, drill up through floor into a cabinet or toe kick
-Paul R. haller-
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:56 AM   #3
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Well.. which circuits are not working, where are they, and then we can better suggest routes, paths, or ideas. such as "Shove it up your" Toilet cut out (That is actually a path I'm going to use, The cut out for the toilet and then into the plumbing channel and then to where it has to go)
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Old 06-09-2010, 05:41 PM   #4
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Dave;
A bit OT, but where did you get the wiring diagrams for your coach? From Fleetwood or somewhere else?
Also, whereabouts in S WI are y'all? We're in Platteville (SW corner) right now...
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:47 PM   #5
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you could use a product like wiremold (a square metal painted conduit used on block walls) look at a electrical supply store its small square conduit that is made to be mounted exposed, they have all kinds of angles and stuff to make it real clean . WIREMOLD RACEWAY V718 CABLE RACEWAY OUTSIDE ELBOW FITT. - eBay (item 200415422327 end time Jul-05-10 08:17:49 PDT) this is a 10 pack of outside elbows for a quick example ,(quick as i could find on ebay lol) the cover completely conseals the mounting bracket and holds the tubing, finished its like 7/16x1/2 square and is usually light tan or white but you could easily paint it ,shallow boxes and switches too!! take a look ...
fabricator john ....'73 d-18
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Well.. which circuits are not working, where are they, and then we can better suggest routes, paths, or ideas. such as "Shove it up your" Toilet cut out (That is actually a path I'm going to use, The cut out for the toilet and then into the plumbing channel and then to where it has to go)
Well, I was looking more for general principles, but if you want to try to come up with a specific solution, here is the information. The light fixture and the exhaust fan in the bathroom aren't working. They are on circuit #12 on the schematic. Also, the light in the large aft starboard closet doesn't work. It is on circuit #7.



The dome light and the two map lights up in the front of the coach don't work. The map lights and the horn are on the same circuit and it has a dead short somewhere; it blows the 15a fuse immediately. I haven't checked out the dome light yet, but it is hooked to the headlight switch.
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Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller View Post
I have been known to use ac ducts as well as heater ducts to run in circuits that could not otherwise have been run. Mostly now, I find someplace under the rig. Remember to put all wires into split loom to protect from chafing after installation.. Then, drill up through floor into a cabinet or toe kick
-Paul R. haller-
Thanks for the ideas; I hadn't thought of either one of those! They seem especially good strategies for running heavy gauge wiring, as in adding an inverter or a new 115v AC outlet.I knew you guys (and gals) would have some novel approaches; that's one of the great advantages of a forum like this one. It's like sitting around the campfire with some friends, but the campfire encompasses the whole world!
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1985 33' Pace Arrow "Titanic", 454+.040", Thorley Tri-Y
Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:23 AM   #8
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Dave;
A bit OT, but where did you get the wiring diagrams for your coach? From Fleetwood or somewhere else?
Also, whereabouts in S WI are y'all? We're in Platteville (SW corner) right now...
Hi Senior Chief,
I just went to their contact page
Customer Service/ then selected "Motor Homes" and took the email option http://fleetwoodrv.com/contact/contact_form.aspx?type=MH .Then you get to fill out a form with the VIN and serial numbers of your coach and ask them a question(s) or request prints on your particular vehicle. I have gotten not only 12v and 115v prints, but also plumbing and fuse box prints. It's a great resource and they are to be commended for hanging on to all that material and making it available to us. One thing they either didn't have or weren't releasing were the actual construction prints of the coach body. There is also an option to talk to a real human being....

We are living over by Whitewater right now but will be moving over to Grant county this summer some time. We'll be between Potosi and Cassville, neighbor!
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1985 33' Pace Arrow "Titanic", 454+.040", Thorley Tri-Y
Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FBR-K8R John View Post
you could use a product like wiremold (a square metal painted conduit used on block walls) look at a electrical supply store its small square conduit that is made to be mounted exposed, they have all kinds of angles and stuff to make it real clean . WIREMOLD RACEWAY V718 CABLE RACEWAY OUTSIDE ELBOW FITT. - eBay (item 200415422327 end time Jul-05-10 08:17:49 PDT) this is a 10 pack of outside elbows for a quick example ,(quick as i could find on ebay lol) the cover completely conseals the mounting bracket and holds the tubing, finished its like 7/16x1/2 square and is usually light tan or white but you could easily paint it ,shallow boxes and switches too!! take a look ...
fabricator john ....'73 d-18
Hi Fab John,
Thanks for jumping in with that wiremold option; that was another one I wasn't familiar with. It looks like a very safe, sanitary way to run those pesky circuits that just won't go in any other way; and with the right paint color, they will virtually disappear. Shoot, I might even use that stuff in my house!
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1985 33' Pace Arrow "Titanic", 454+.040", Thorley Tri-Y
Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:57 AM   #10
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I found on my 83 33' there is a plug behind the fridge (way up high) that needs to be pulled together every now & then....
That lousey placed plug controls many lights throughout the RV especially on the R.H. side of the critter...

Jim
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:33 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
I found on my 83 33' there is a plug behind the fridge (way up high) that needs to be pulled together every now & then....
That lousey placed plug controls many lights throughout the RV especially on the R.H. side of the critter...

Jim
Jim,
I'm not exactly clear on where this plug is. How do you get to it?
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Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:39 AM   #12
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Jim,
I'm not exactly clear on where this plug is. How do you get to it?
The wires (12V) are behind the fridge and run down the backside of it.

Problem is the connector is way at the top and with the outside door opened one hasta reach way up to pull them together again...Arms like a gorilla are needed......
It has been decided to slide the fridge out (someday) and replace the plug wirh straight wire which controls many lights on the passenger side of the rig....
I've NEVER tested what else (circuits) is not working but next time it happens I will.

Jim
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Old 06-12-2010, 12:54 PM   #13
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I had a dead tail light and marker light on our Vanguard fiver, no power to them. What to do?
The top of the tail light mount butts up to a seam in the skin. I used a scotch lock to splice into the t/l wire then ran it across the trailer to the dead light. Spliced into the dead circuit then pushed the wire into the seam. A bead of sealer ensures it stays in place out of sight.
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Old 06-13-2010, 04:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
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The wires (12V) are behind the fridge and run down the backside of it.

Problem is the connector is way at the top and with the outside door opened one hasta reach way up to pull them together again...Arms like a gorilla are needed......

Jim
So far I haven't spotted a connector up in there. I've got plenty of cobwebs, some corn chaff from being parked by a grain leg on the farm where I was working on it, some mysterious white boxes, and a few continuous wires with no connectors. At least I will accomplish something in there by cleaning all that crud off the fridge condenser before I run it... should improve its' efficiency considerably.

Dave
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