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Old 08-06-2016, 09:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
jaydar
Sounds like you are either experiencing "vapor lock"...(aka: "fuel percolation")
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock
...or as you said "a fuel pump problem"
Mel
'96 Safari
Vapor lock has not been a problem with the return to tank FI fuel system, except on the 4.9L engines
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:04 PM   #16
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Ok, hear me out on this. Back when I raced dirt figure 8, we built a car and took it out and it would run maybe 4 laps and quit. Crank, no start. We watch races and go to load on trailer and it would start and run fine. this went on for a couple of events with us pulling our hair out trying to figure it out. Then I happen to think when it quit and I reached down and felt the ignition module and it was HOT! Not right. Turns out it was not grounded good enough. Corrosion is a weird animal when it come to electrical. Might look at the Ignition "brain" grounding. I always carried a spare in my old trucks for just such an occasion.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:42 PM   #17
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If it would lose power and the temperature would get hot I would say the converter was stopped up. Take the converter off and see if the honeycombed material is broken up and restricting the exhaust. I know because I had your symptoms exactly and it fixed my proble. I added a pipe in place of the converter. If it's not getting hot then the fuel pumps may be going bad.
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Old 08-24-2016, 06:08 PM   #18
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If it is vapor lock, a quick and cheap fix is to put a wooden clothes pin (spring loaded type) on the fuel line just ahead of carb or ego. Don't ask me how, but it does work
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:48 PM   #19
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If it is vapor lock, a quick and cheap fix is to put a wooden clothes pin (spring loaded type) on the fuel line just ahead of carb or ego. Don't ask me how, but it does work
The clothes pin trick was used back in the day, by racers, to help with vapor lock, and they would soak them in water, then clip them on the fuel lines, before a race, to help them keep cooler by evaporation! Not a long term fix! In a MH, that is just not the right way to fix the problem! Rail!
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:06 AM   #20
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I have not experienced many problems with vaporlock on my fuely engines, however, nothing says it can't happen. Clothespin trick acts as a heat sink to help dissipate heat, I have had vapor lock on many a modified engine with Holleys before. One trick there was to pile ice on top of intake. It works in a pinch.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:04 PM   #21
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Vapor lock came because the float in the Carburetor would stop the flow of fuel in the fuel line and then it became hot with only 7-12psi fuel pressure on it so the fuel would boil.

Ford tried to fix this problem by putting a fuel pump in the fuel tank and adding a fuel return line just in front of the Carburetor so the fuel would always be moving to keep the fuel cooler at the engine. The return device at the Carburetor came in various sized orifices depending on how bad the vapor lock problem was.

With the Fuel Injected engine they upped the fuel pressure to 30-40psi on the V8 engine to raise the boiling point of the fuel and kept the fuel return to keep the fuel cooler. This work for the V8 but the place of the fuel rail (close to the exhaust manifold) on the 4.9L let the fuel still vapor lock sometimes. So they tried putting a fan on the fuel rail to cool the fuel rail but this did not work very well so then they dropped the fan and raised the fuel pressure for the 4.9L to 50-60psi to fix the vapor locking problem.

The OP has fuel injected 460 V8 that as the 30-40psi fuel pressure and a fuel return system so he should not have a vapor lock problem as I pointed out earlier.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:07 PM   #22
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Trash in tank.Has coach been sitting for a long time? Pick up screen can get clogged then ehen you shut it down trash falls away from screen a few miles later it sucks crap up and repeats itself.
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:35 PM   #23
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The OP last post was Aug 3 so he may have running OK by now. He more than likely had a bad PIP sensor in the distributor or bad TFI (ICM).
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Old 09-17-2016, 02:46 PM   #24
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When I supervised the shop for the City of phoenix we had many fuel pumps that would quit in the heat. Turns out the springs for the fuel pump brushes were losing tension and the brushes would not make good contact to the armature until they cooled down. Another trick our wrecker drivers found was to smack the fuel tank on the bottom where the pump sets with a rubber hammer. The shock must have jarred the brushes and springs.
One of the mechanics discovered this problem when he took an amp draw reading on a hot pump and it was almost nil.

Another similar case but with a semi when I worked for Cummins was a cigar butt in the fuel tank that would stop up the pick up tube, then float away when the engine died! LOL Took us awhile to figure that one out!
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