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Old 05-04-2012, 10:19 AM   #15
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Have you checked your transfer switch? If it's an Iota, they had a recall. You may want to check your model# or google the one you have for possible issues.
The electric panel is at the foot of the bed, where would the transfer switch be located, under the bed perhaps, I assume it must be inside the RV someplace
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:54 PM   #16
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Although it doesn't have to be, it's likely under the bed. If not, at least you should be able to follow the incoming cable from the AC compartment back to where it might be. In my rig it's in a metal box 4" X 4" attached to the back of my AC breaker panel. They put them close to the panel to keep the wires short. Heavy copper costs $$$.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
The electric panel is at the foot of the bed, where would the transfer switch be located, under the bed perhaps, I assume it must be inside the RV someplace
In my last coach and this one, the transfer switch is at the end of the power cord. This is where it switches between generator and shore power.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:45 PM   #18
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In my last coach and this one, the transfer switch is at the end of the power cord. This is where it switches between generator and shore power.
Mine must be under the bed, that electric box in the picture is under the bed and right now I have the bed piled high with all the cushions and stuff I moved to have room for the interior repairs.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:06 PM   #19
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You said your manual indicated you have a AC transfer switch. It is used to determine whether shore power or generator power is used to power the rear AC.

If you have a ATS switch (no manual selection needed to select generator), then your system looks something simular to this:



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Old 05-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #20
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You said your manual indicated you have a AC transfer switch. It is used to determine whether shore power or generator power is used to power the rear AC.

If you have a ATS switch (no manual selection needed to select generator), then your system looks something simular to this:



Dave
I raised the bed and was confronted with two wood box's with removable covers, I removed the covers and the first one had an electric box with a big label that said automatic transfer switch, the rest of the box and the second box were full of wires, connectors, electric box's and what not. In the rear there was two holes cut in the panel just in front of the fresh water tank, I was peeking in there and saw what looked like a screw on filter with a water pump on top of it, I saw a red wire going into a Crimp on connector and then to the pump, I went to move it to get a better look and the wire pulled out of the connector, there was another wire nut nearby with four wires and some silicone sealant in it and that was all sticky gooey stuff. ON the rear floor by the water tank there a copper ground connecter like the one I installed with that one heavy copper wire and three white wires (which I am assuming are all grounds).
Almost all the wires going into the rear of the electric panel have the screw together clamps to hold them tight and they were all very loose. I found I had a 115V receptacle on each side of the bed that I did not even know was there.
Perhaps the pictures will help you to help me
BTW to the best of my determination, that wire diagram is exactly like my setup.
I have 12v power all over the RV, just do not have 115 volts
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:53 PM   #21
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Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) is used to automatically select between shore power and generator. Most rigs have shore power as the default. When the generator is powered ON, the control circuit in the box transfers input to the generator. The selected input is then feed to the left hand 30 amp circuit breaker of the Power Distribution panel (bottom photo)


Output of that breaker is feed to the other breakers in that panel. Those breakers feed your converter, fridge, AC, recepitcles, etc.

Right side fuses are for 12VDC coach distribution. Input to them is converter and battery. Converter is most likely either under or behind that panel.

You need to get 115VAC working first so, first thing to do is check to see if 115VAC is getting to the left hand 30 amp input CB. If not then problem is in ATS switch. Many times the screws in there vibrate loose.

For AC, black is hot, white is Nuetral and green (or bare) is ground. For DC typically Red is hot and black is ground. Some mfgs mix AC and DC use black for hot and white for ground for DC components. Gets a person confused. Just pay attention what is going where.

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Old 05-06-2012, 08:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
I raised the bed and was confronted with two wood box's with removable covers, I removed the covers and the first one had an electric box with a big label
Looking at the photos you posted, it appears to be a bunch more holes cut in the bed frame wall. Unless you did these, this would lend me to believe someone else has been in and modified things in your electrical system and may well be the source of your problem rather than a failure of some electrical device in itself.

My suggestion would be to have an an automotive electrical place have a look at it if there isn't something obvious. They could review any of the electrical mods done to ensure safe as well.

Given the placement of all your electrical under your bed, an electrical fire under your butt wouldn't be something I would want to encounter. In fact it could be fatal.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:54 AM   #23
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For reference, while I cannot see what amperage size it is, you have a older Magnetek 6300 series Linear Power Distribution/Converter setup.
PPS LINEAR CONVERTERS

The Linear style converters have been known boil batteries dry. Additionally, with the 6300, the battery is not connected in parallel with the converter. There is a relay inside the converter that selects between converter or battery supply. So, there is a seperate 12 amp max battery charging circuit in the converter used charge/maintain the battery. It is a linear style battery charger. Modern converters are 3 stage.

Major thing to realize at this point is if you not getting 115AC distributed into the rig, the converter is not ON. So, the battery is supplying all 12VDC loads at this point.

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Old 05-06-2012, 09:54 AM   #24
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Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) is used to automatically select between shore power and generator. Most rigs have shore power as the default. When the generator is powered ON, the control circuit in the box transfers input to the generator. The selected input is then feed to the left hand 30 amp circuit breaker of the Power Distribution panel (bottom photo)


Output of that breaker is feed to the other breakers in that panel. Those breakers feed your converter, fridge, AC, recepitcles, etc.

Right side fuses are for 12VDC coach distribution. Input to them is converter and battery. Converter is most likely either under or behind that panel.

You need to get 115VAC working first so, first thing to do is check to see if 115VAC is getting to the left hand 30 amp input CB. If not then problem is in ATS switch. Many times the screws in there vibrate loose.

For AC, black is hot, white is Nuetral and green (or bare) is ground. For DC typically Red is hot and black is ground. Some mfgs mix AC and DC use black for hot and white for ground for DC components. Gets a person confused. Just pay attention what is going where.

Dave
I opened up the top of the transfer switch and then unscrewed and rescrewed all the wire nuts to be sure they were connected good and tight, I went around and adjusted and tightened down all the clamps that hold the wires secure to the box., Plugged in the ground power and with my tester I found I have power to the transfer switch and I marked that wire, shore, I started the gen, reset it's breakers and tested it's line to the transfer switch, it was hot so I marked it gen. to my surprise the switch was humming again so I stuck the tester in an electrical outlet and I had power there, then I turned on the ac and sure enough it was running, Shut it all down and turned the gen off and plugged the ground power back in and nothing, but I did have power in the wire at the transfer switch>??????

I know I am gettiing close to solving this problem
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #25
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For additional reference, you have the "ATS" version of the Magnetek switch
PPS ATS DLR

One thing I am not clear about is your comment:
Quote:
Shut it all down and turned the gen off and plugged the ground power back in and nothing, but I did have power in the wire at the transfer switch>?
What do you mean by "plugged the ground power back in"?

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Old 05-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #26
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If by "ground power" you mean "shore power" cable, then the ATS relay is not switching from generator back to shore power mode. http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS/ATS30.PDF At least one set of relay contacts (hot lead or Neutral lead) is stuck in the energized position (pitted and burned). Relay is in bottom section of the ATS switch. To remove the ATS you need to see this: http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS/ATS_mounting.pdf

Dave
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:42 PM   #27
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For additional reference, you have the "ATS" version of the Magnetek switch
PPS ATS DLR

One thing I am not clear about is your comment:


What do you mean by "plugged the ground power back in"?

Dave
Ex Pilot, Ground Power equals SHORE POWER
I had unplugged the shore power wire, then started the gen, when I saw all was working with the gen running , I stopped the gen and plugged the shore power wire back in, that is what I meant.

From the diagram and set of instructions are you telling me that I can remove the transfer switch from the panel and repair it by cleaning a set of burned or pitted points much like I would do on an old car that was using ignition points
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:25 PM   #28
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Ahh, I thought it might be something like that.
Anyway, from what I have read on the net, many times you can clean the pitted contacts. If you have voltage available from both gen and shore power cable and it is not getting to the wire connected to the 30 amp CB then all it can be is the ATS. So, you would have to pull it anyway. You can, as a temporary fix, jumper around the ATS.
Once you have that all worked out you can then look at the other DC side connections you were concerned about.

Dave
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