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Old 05-06-2012, 04:18 PM   #29
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Ahh, I thought it might be something like that.
Anyway, from what I have read on the net, many times you can clean the pitted contacts. If you have voltage available from both gen and shore power cable and it is not getting to the wire connected to the 30 amp CB then all it can be is the ATS. So, you would have to pull it anyway. You can, as a temporary fix, jumper around the ATS.
Once you have that all worked out you can then look at the other DC side connections you were concerned about.

Dave
I think you are telling me that no matter what, I have to remove the auto transfer switch. once I have it removed I should be able to open it up and see the contacts inside, is that correct?
I wonder if you can just bang it a few times like a stuck starter solonoid??

The only number I can find on the outside of the switch is PR6765 and there is no brand name, that makes it hard to look up on ebay or elsewhere, any ideas???
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:31 PM   #30
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I pointed you to the documentation in post 26 Dang what next can happen. You have the old "ATS" unit not the "ATS 30" unit.

Magnetek was bought out by Parrallax. All the ATS (old and new) is accessed via PPS ATS DLR

All I can say is you are going to have to dig into it to see if you can clean the contacts.

Quote:
I wonder if you can just bang it a few times like a stuck starter solonoid?
My guess is that is what you did when you got it to work before which is why I feel it has pitted and burned contacts.
Dave
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:49 PM   #31
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I pointed you to the documentation in post 26 Dang what next can happen. You have the old "ATS" unit not the "ATS 30" unit.

Magnetek was bought out by Parrallax. All the ATS (old and new) is accessed via PPS ATS DLR

All I can say is you are going to have to dig into it to see if you can clean the contacts.


My guess is that is what you did when you got it to work before which is why I feel it has pitted and burned contacts.
Dave
dave,
I have not jumped into pulling that switch yet, but I have a few questions
on top I see 6 wires that all are connected to each other, plus two ground wires, the pic is above, what wires are unseen coming from the bottom that I cannot see,. I assume they will be connected to the back of the converter. do you have any pictures of one? All the photos on eBay show the switch with no wires.
I banged on the box with a hammer for kicks, no change, got a feeling the points inside are fused together in the gen position
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:11 PM   #32
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The only thing I can offer is the wiring diagram: http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS/ATS30.PDF which is all you really need.

Load Hot (Black) and Load Neutral (White) go to the power panel. They come out of the ATS somewhere towards the bottom of the ATS. They are the output from the relays. Black (hot) goes to the 30 amp CB in the panel. White goes to the buss bar with all the white leads.

Line and Gen are inputs to the relays.

Line Hot (Black) and Line Neutral (White) come from the shore power cable.

Gen Hot (Black) and Gen Neutral (White) come from the generator cable.

Most of this is the same as normal house wiring. Nothing really fancy about it.

Dave
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:53 AM   #33
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The only thing I can offer is the wiring diagram: http://www.parallaxpower.com/ATS/ATS30.PDF which is all you really need.

Load Hot (Black) and Load Neutral (White) go to the power panel. They come out of the ATS somewhere towards the bottom of the ATS. They are the output from the relays. Black (hot) goes to the 30 amp CB in the panel. White goes to the buss bar with all the white leads.

Line and Gen are inputs to the relays.

Line Hot (Black) and Line Neutral (White) come from the shore power cable.

Gen Hot (Black) and Gen Neutral (White) come from the generator cable.

Most of this is the same as normal house wiring. Nothing really fancy about it.

Dave
Dave,

I called parallax and spoke with Marty there. he confirmed that the ATS301 is the correct replacement switch for the old ATS30. I was concerned about the wattage limitation of a 3300W gen that some sellers on eBay stated in their ads. He told me not to worry about that if my system is equipped with a 30 amp main breaker, it will only allow 30 amps in no matter what the wattage may be.

He said that all converter box's hum, the old 6300 series was just louder then most, but technoligy has made the hum on newer stuff barely recognizable.

He did confirm that yes I can probably file down the points and get the old unit working again, but to remember it is a 20 year old Box and it will probably happen again and at the worst possible time, he did say there are two wires coming out the bottom, a black and a white. The black is the hot and goes to the 30 amp breaker connection and the white is neutral and goes to the neutral bar with all the other white wires

Dave you are a wealth of knowledge on all this electrical stuff, after I change this switch I will have to tackle the electric steps that do go up and down but bump constantly in either position unless I grab them and tug or push, gotta be a bad limitation switch or ground in there someplace
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:20 AM   #34
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He did confirm that yes I can probably file down the points and get the old unit working again, but to remember it is a 20 year old Box and it will probably happen again and at the worst possible time, he did say there are two wires coming out the bottom, a black and a white. The black is the hot and goes to the 30 amp breaker connection and the white is neutral and goes to the neutral bar with all the other white wires
I agree with his thoughts. I would also add that if you are in a position to do it that you upgrade to a more modern 3 stage converter also while you have it all apart.
The Intelli-Power 4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement RV Converter/Charger with built-in Charge Wizard is the Brand of choice by leading RV manufacturers.

Dave
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:00 PM   #35
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I agree with his thoughts. I would also add that if you are in a position to do it that you upgrade to a more modern 3 stage converter also while you have it all apart.
The Intelli-Power 4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement RV Converter/Charger with built-in Charge Wizard is the Brand of choice by leading RV manufacturers.

Dave
I'll pass on that tho it sounds good,I am so farf ov er my budget for this project becuase of unexpected expenses. it's not just the big expensive things it;s those little things like screws, glue, staples, sandpaper etc etc etc have added up to well over 1K in just three months, I just want to get it done and sleep in it. I stll do not know if the water heater, furnace, stove or fridge work or if I have any water or gas leaks
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:16 PM   #36
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I fully understand the $ issue. You can always upgrade later. At least then you will know what you have. The ATS301 appears to be a little different design and you may have to drill new holes to mount it. If so, remember you may need to remove the converter electronics below it so the metal shavings from drilling do not fall into the electronics. You don't want to be placed in the position of having to replace the converter because of a short. Besides, dust usually builds up in there and cleaning it all out will make it run cooler.

Dave
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:09 PM   #37
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I fully understand the $ issue. You can always upgrade later. At least then you will know what you have. The ATS301 appears to be a little different design and you may have to drill new holes to mount it. If so, remember you may need to remove the converter electronics below it so the metal shavings from drilling do not fall into the electronics. You don't want to be placed in the position of having to replace the converter because of a short. Besides, dust usually builds up in there and cleaning it all out will make it run cooler.

Dave
Thanks for the heads up. The guy I spoke to this morning said it should be a direct fit, we shall see, and the eBay guy just sent an e mail saying it has been shipped, I should get it fri or sat.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #38
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Thanks for the heads up. The guy I spoke to this morning said it should be a direct fit, we shall see, and the eBay guy just sent an e mail saying it has been shipped, I should get it fri or sat.
Got the switch and I am installing it now. you will not believe what I ran into. Gonna start a new thread with pictures, watch for it later, this one is too long
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:36 PM   #39
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In a quick scan of this topic I do not see any reference to using a VOM to find out exactly where you do and do not have power. It is a fairly simple process to follow the flow form where you got power to where you don't. What is the voltage going into the converter and what is the DC voltage coming out. You don't know where a wire goes or comes from get a signal tracer. You can waste a whole lot of time, effort and money fumbling around.
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Old 05-11-2012, 05:11 PM   #40
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In a quick scan of this topic I do not see any reference to using a VOM to find out exactly where you do and do not have power. It is a fairly simple process to follow the flow form where you got power to where you don't. What is the voltage going into the converter and what is the DC voltage coming out. You don't know where a wire goes or comes from get a signal tracer. You can waste a whole lot of time, effort and money fumbling around.
I have power all the way down the right side and on the left side have power up to the microwave, the two electric outlets forward of the microwave have no power. I can only assume there is a problem between the outlets and the microwave. There is two 15 amp C/B's on the ac panel, both are marked outlets, I guess one is for the right and the other is for the left
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:15 PM   #41
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I have power all the way down the right side and on the left side have power up to the microwave, the two electric outlets forward of the microwave have no power. I can only assume there is a problem between the outlets and the microwave. There is two 15 amp C/B's on the ac panel, both are marked outlets, I guess one is for the right and the other is for the left
I am confused. do you have power to some of the outlets? if so you may have a loose wire behind the last outlet that works. the air conditioner should have its own circuit breaker. if you have power in part of the rv I do not see how it could be the transfer switch.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:12 PM   #42
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Bilito,
After you get through rebuilding the AC/DC disribution panel, replacing the ATS switch, and repairing the converter, (Automatic Transfer Switch Install) repost what the conditions are. You are doing way to much right now and the conditions will most likely change.

Dave
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