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Old 08-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #1
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 66
Diesel pusher Dash Air Problem????Help Pls.

I have a 1990, 36 ft diesel pusher and the dash air conditioning is not working, I have done the following, 1. found the compressor clutch not engaging, 2. I found a bad blade fuse holder and burndt fuse on the condensor Replaced that fuse holder and fuse, now the compressor clutch engages,3. I purchased conversion fittings for adding R134 to the existing system, I know not reccomended for an r-12 system, but it worked and is still working on my 1990 ford ranger.
So now the condensor fans (2) both run, compressor turns and clutch engages, I added 4 Ea 12oz cans of r-134 and no cooling yet, I did notice the evaporator start getting cold, but not very cold or frosty like i would expect it to.
How much freon R-134 could the system possibly take remember the hoses are about 36 feet long going from the compressor to the condensor and returning 36 ft. back from the evaporator. Is 4 Cans enough and has anyone else filled their system if so how much did it take. It is possible that I have a leak someplace after all the Coach is 23 yrs old.
If there is a leak someplace what is the best way to find it, considering how big the system is. HELP I have a trip planned and hate running the propane genset for 10 hrs. a day while traveling.

Muledeer2 1990 hawkins/36 ft./Cat 3208/37,000 miles

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Old 08-16-2013, 06:41 PM   #2
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Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 12,654
You've created a mess that no shop will want to deal with. When a system is evacuated, R 12 goes in one tank, R 134a in another. No one will want a mix of the two. In addition, the lubricating oils in the two coolants is very different. R 12 uses mineral oil, which R134a won't circulate. The oil used in R 134a systems (added in each of those cans you added to the system) can react with the mineral oil and create a goop that can clog things up. A proper conversion would include having R 12 safely evacuated, drain mineral oil, replace with R 134a oil, change dryer, evacuate system and add R 134a through the new compatible fittings.
You'll have to check with the chassis manufacturer, but most DP only take 2.5 - 4 lbs of refrigerant, not as much as you'd think. Often there's a sticker near evaporator in front or in engine compartment with fill capacities.


Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:43 PM   #3
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I actually have a recovery system, and keep a mixed bottle for the systems with both r-12 and r-134, I did draw the system down and recover the r-12 before adding r-134 and oil to the sys., Found the problem was not with the air conditioning at all it was in the heater box, hot water was not shutting off to the heater/air conditioning box.................added a manual shut off ball valve, air coming from vents is now 34.2 degrees idling and it was 69-74 deg. Just os you know my 1990 ford ranger has had mix for 20 years with no problems what so ever. GO FIGURE
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:45 PM   #4
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MFG has been out of business for 15 years..................
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