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Old 05-05-2015, 06:26 PM   #15
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The alternator wire, measured at the isolator is 0 with the engine off and 0.14 with the engine running.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:12 PM   #16
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There HAS to be 12 volt power to the big batt terminal of the alternator.

The big + wire should go to the isolator and then to the battery or starter, on the chassis side.

The other side of the isolator should go to the house battery.

Find the other end of the starting battery, wire. It may be broken or hanging loose.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:56 PM   #17
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The isolator will block the voltage from battery.

For testing locate the isolator and tie all 3 together with a small wire or solder as it will fuse.

If that works then you are 1/2 way there.

If new one is not adjustable voltage then isolator may need to be upgraded to a selenoid type which would fix the connection to 12 part.
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Old 05-09-2015, 06:49 PM   #18
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That alternator needs 12v on the big wire to allow it to charge. This is a running change in the internal Leece Neville voltage regulators. Just went through that part of this issue on mine not too long ago.

This being the case, if that diode type isolator is wired correctly, there's a diode preventing that wire (isolator to alternator)from working as expected. The diode (in the isolator) acts as a one way valve, allow power to be fed from alternator to the battery, but not from the battery to the alternator. Clear as mud, right?

That alternator is not going to work with a diode type isolator wired the way it's supposed to/was originally wired. As a work around, you could take the wire from the main battery, and the wire from the alternator and put both of them on the center terminal of the isolator. The wire from the aux battery could then be installed on either of the outside terminals, and everything would work as designed. (Actually better, because the main battery would no longer be suffering the voltage loss caused by running the charge through a diode.)
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:11 PM   #19
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But house battery can drain startinf battery.

One may be able to use a relay controlled by ign to suppy supply 12 volts by connecting the 2 posts.

For now test by connecting to confirm working then swap isolator for selenoid type.
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:38 AM   #20
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With the wires coming from the main batt. and alt. on the center terminal, and the wire from the house battery on an outside terminal, the house battery will remain isolated exactly as it was originally.

Not saying a relay wouldn't be a good plan though. Just make sure it's wired correctly, and it's a constant duty type. A plain starter relay will overheat and stop working if left on more than a few minutes.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:11 AM   #21
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TQ60 - OK, my bad. I see how that's not going to work after thinking about it again. Those following please disregard my work around for the isolator above.

I'll admit the relay would be the better plan.

Still another work around to use the original isolator to consider - might be to take a wire that's turned on when the key is turned on, and run that to the center terminal where the wire to the alternator resides. It would only need to be big enough to let the internal voltage regulator read main battery voltage. Pretty sure this would work, but I've never tried it. Worst case, this wire could be used to energize a relay type isolator.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:12 AM   #22
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ahicks,

I agree with you and have done it that way, in the past, with travel trailers. I never wanted to cut into the original alternator wiring of the tow vehicle , so I would just use 1 side of the isolator, between batteries.

Of course, with it wired like that, it is no longer bi-directional. The converter will not charge the start battery.

My Gulfstream MH, uses a constant duty solenoid, activated by the key to charge the house batteries. It had no provisions to maintane the start battery.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:44 AM   #23
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The reason using one side of the isolator won't work is for the potential of the aux. bat to pull the main down. That diode would prevent the charge to the aux. bat from reaching the main, but power from the main could flow through the diode to reach the aux bat..... Not a good plan.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:31 AM   #24
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If only starting battery connected to same place as alternator then it is not isolated as source to cabin battery as the current is designed to go that way.

Loads on starting battery are still isolated from csbin but starting battery is no the charging source for cabin battery since it is connected to alternator post.

If cabin battery is moved over then cabin loads will not drain starting battery and alternator works directly on cabin battery.

Selenoids used can be starter type or ford ONLY FOR TESTING but perm units need to be rated for continous duty.

To the OP...

Please perform suggested processes only as testing operations to determine what is needed to get your alternator to function.

Bear in mind your existing setup may simply not be compatable with your new alternator and if the new alternator is not output voltage adjustable a diode tyle isolator may add enough voltage drop (0.6 volts) to effect the charging.

Follow up with the vendor to check on these things before making permanent modifications as the new alternator should be either returnable if not compatable or repairable under warranty if defective.

The vendor may have a compatable alternator or an isolator or other option.

There are many many of these on the road so the solution id stupid simple but one just needs the correct simple one for your case.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:33 AM   #25
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You guys type faster than I...
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:06 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vogue View Post
Hey Guys,
I found this post from 2013 1984 Vogue II - Can you identify what is in the picture? I need help. I have an alternator that's not putting out power. Unable to find anyone to bench test so I bought a new one. Old one, 2600jb, had 4 posts with wires connected. New one, wilson 90-04-7039, has 2 posts + ground. Leftover wires are yellow, small gauge, previously attached to a thin long post above (+) and a green small gauge previously attached to a thin short post right of the ground wire coming out of alternator. I wrapped these wires in electrical tape and did not hook them to a random post in fear of frying the $300 alternator. The battery is still dropping volts when running after installing new alternator rather than putting out 13.5+. Also back of alternator posts are reading .14 and .28 at idle and on throttle. Battery Volts drop from 12.55 to 12.28 when running. I'm wondering if the problem was not the alternator to begin with. Also wondering how to properly place the two leftover wires. Suspecting a diode isolator issue as in previous post. Mainly concerned with using my RV instead of bathing in pumice. Would love some help.
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This is a solid state battery isolator:


It is important to note that "one wire alternators", (and often other "replacement alternators"), are NOT computable with solid state isolators.

That's why it's always best to have an alternator rebuilt rather than replaced.

BTW IMO the "2 leftover wires" mean someone sold you the WRONG alternator.

Mel
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:50 PM   #27
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It's my understanding (gained from a trusted rebuilder) that Leece Neville can no longer supply the original voltage regulator (that uses the extra 2 wires). If you're Leese Neville rebuild includes a new voltage regulator, you'll have this mod. It's not an option.

Most consider these diode type isolators (or solid state, whatever).... less than desirable, anyway. There are good reasons they're no longer commonly seen in use. I'm not against trying to get one to work, but I wouldn't spend too much time or money to do that. The solenoid type are easily installed, and not expensive. This fact, and the fact it's a more robust system when completed, make it difficult to justify too much messing around here.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:02 AM   #28
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Thanks so much guys for the replies. I was forced to leave "Old Bessie" behind on this trip. I'll be back next week and fully immerse myself in the electrical issues again. I'll post updates soon. Thanks.
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