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Old 07-05-2016, 03:27 PM   #183
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I agree the existing patina is OK. If there were a vote I would vote for a repaint.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:42 PM   #184
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Erik, that machine is looking great. What are the electrics on that? What horse power? Over here it would probably be 3 to 5 horse 220v 3 phase.

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Old 07-06-2016, 08:20 AM   #185
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Erik, that machine is looking great. What are the electrics on that? What horse power? Over here it would probably be 3 to 5 horse 220v 3 phase.
Thanks! It's powered by a 3.7kW (about 5hp) 380V three phase asynchronous motor.

That's a x inch socket sitting on top of it.

Note the lubrication for the end bearing. Nowadays motors used sealed for life bearings and my guess is that they won't last 70 years in an industrial environment.

Just as interesting info, power going to houses here is 3 phases plus a neutral and a ground (5 wire) which gives 220V between phase and neutral and 380V between the phases. The AC runs at 50Hz. In older installations the neutral and ground are connected in a 4 wire connection. The cost for electricity is about $0.13 U.S. per kWh.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:33 AM   #186
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I agree the existing patina is OK. If there were a vote I would vote for a repaint.
I leaning towards doing an "industrial" renovation. Painting it over the existing paint just like they would do on an industrial shop floor, along with fixing the broken bits, but not resurfacing anything beyond basic operational needs. There is 70 years of manufacturing history in all the nicks and dents, and they add a special kind of charm to an old machine. I've seen full renovations of similar machines and while beautiful, they don't have the same feeling of how things really were on the shop floor.

Just moving the levers is an experience. Modern machines are smooth and fluid. The gears in this machine are straight cut and make a clunk just like driving an old truck. I sometimes change gears on it as I walk by just for the feeling.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:50 AM   #187
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I agree with leaving the scars it accumulated during its life time. I like the thought of giving it a new covering that is in line with the new life you have given it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:03 AM   #188
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My vote: Clean it up, get it as functional as you'll ever need, and leave it. It's not like it's a big gob of rust. Pictures show it looking not that bad!
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:51 AM   #189
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Painting it, with the possible exception of where needed for preservation, will cover up the history of this great tool. I'd leave it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #190
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The paint is in pretty bad condition and cracking or flaking over most of the machine. It doesn't show in the pictures though. Since I need to be able to use and clean the machine, I emailed the Munktells museum to find out what is the best course for keeping the historical integrity and the usability of the machine. I'll let you know what they say.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:19 AM   #191
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The Munktell museum recommended that I repaint it in the original color and enjoy it. They can't tell me what the original color was, but they suggested I peel away paint layers to find it. The back of some of the covers still have some of the original paint, so I will take them to a paint store to see if they can match it.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:24 PM   #192
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NICE Erik,
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:58 PM   #193
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Truth be told, I have never used a lathe before. I admit it, I'm a metal turning noob.

The starter on my wife's BMW died. So after pulling the starter out I took it apart and it's not salvageable. The brushes had worn all the way down and come loose. So I took the armature and put it in the lathe. The communicator was badly burned and I thought I would try to clean it up.


First a file to get the melted globs of copper off, then sand paper starting at 120 going up to 800. Turned out rather nice.

Too bad the rest of the starter wasn't usable.
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:36 AM   #194
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And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

No rain today! Yay! With the weather being nice, I removed the side wall of the house. I started by hooking the back hoe up with straps to the wall.


And like always, there was the one screw that you missed taking out and you don't notice until you start to lift!

The spider was nice enough to point out that there is a screw going from the top of the wall into the back wall. The back wall is made of mostly insulation with a few blocks of wood, so of course it had the one screw that I missed.

With the last screw gone the wall came off without much of a problem. I slightly miscalculated the center of gravity of the wall, but it came off nicely anyways.


The wall was easily placed on the ground next to the house


The biggest problem I ran into was that the corner protector I made slipped and the strap cracked the wall.

The tape is covering a hole that was left when the previous owner removed the awning. He filled it with body filler and painted it which turned out to not last very long. The tape at least kept the water out.
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:06 PM   #195
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Erik,
That crack is minor compared to all the other things that you are going to repair on the old girl. By taking the side walls off, that kind of eliminates the problem of getting the roof out of the inside.
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:53 PM   #196
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Erik,
That crack is minor compared to all the other things that you are going to repair on the old girl. By taking the side walls off, that kind of eliminates the problem of getting the roof out of the inside.
Frank
Frank, that is kind of what I was thinking too.
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