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Old 05-19-2016, 03:35 PM   #57
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I figured that I would move the motorhome to the back of the shop where I will be able to drive the frame out from underneath the body.

The body is no longer attached to the frame and sitting on wood blocks. You can see the height difference in the stripes by the cab.

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Old 05-19-2016, 03:38 PM   #58
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To inflate the rear air suspension, I made this "special" tool. It's an standard tire inflation handle with the hose replaced by an air coupling. The end of the hose going to the air suspension has an air nipple attached to it. This makes it very easy to both inflate and deflate the air suspension.

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Old 05-19-2016, 03:40 PM   #59
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Ever get stuck in your own driveway? Ever do it when there's no snow? And no rain? With all four drive wheels spinning?


The tag axle is supporting the rear of the motorhome so that the drive wheels now have no traction. I was going to move it and the front brakes wouldn't release resulting in the four drive wheels digging themselves a deep hole.

I guess I'm doing a brake job next.
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:39 PM   #60
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Oh Boy!
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:50 PM   #61
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Erik,
Looks like you have been real busy. Looking forward to the rebuild. That is the trouble you can get into with a tag axle, even getting in and out of driveways, gas stations etc, where there is a change of elevation and you hit it square.
The calipers hanging up happen all the time when vehicles sit for a longer period of time, you will need to replace them or it will happen more often, after sitting for shorter periods of time. This also happens due to moisture in the brake fluid.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:50 AM   #62
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Wow! Look forward to the re-build! Great job so far, Eric!
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:48 AM   #63
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Rusted brakes are a part of daily life here, unfortunately. My winter car is a '96 Jeep ZG (Austrian built ZJ - Grand Cherokee), and it just failed it's annual safety inspection due to rusted out rear parking brakes. The rest of the brakes weren't very pretty either. I'm working on it in parallel with the Elandan, letting the paint dry on sunny days and working in the shop on rainy days.

I expect to replace a lot of part on the chassis. Brakes, bushings, rusted off brackets, and I am guessing a few suspension components after they get hit with the sand blaster.

For now, I'll just make sure the brakes are free so I can move it around until it's time to do the full job.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:28 PM   #64
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Got the brakes sorted out today. The first problem was the stuck front brakes. A couple of years of parking outside in the Swedish weather has really caused the rotors to rust.



With the wheel removed, you can also see the state of the front suspension and the frame.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:31 PM   #65
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Once I got the front brakes unstuck, I hooked up the backhoe to the Elandan and pulled it out of the hole. All it needed as a little pull and up it came.


Since I had the backhoe hooked up, I also gave a little tug to the body to dislodge it from the cab. The body can't be lifted straight up because of the curvature. It's narrower at the top so by pulling the body backwards it is now entirely free. It's still standing on the wooden blocks between the body and the frame.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:41 PM   #66
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So I finally got it moved to the other side of my shop. With all of the brake work, it took all evening.

It turned out that the Elandan started digging a new hole as soon as I put it in gear. The foot brake only works on one of the rear wheels, so as soon as I step on the brake and put it in gear the right rear starts spinning. Took it apart and the piston is stuck.

So I ended up driving, sitting on the floor, operating the parking brake with one hand and steering with the other. With the help of my wife and daughter we got it to its new location, only to run out of gas a few feet from where its supposed to be for the body removal. The biggest problem is that I still need to move it to the final spot before I do anything else because I can't get my trailer out.

So with half a gallon of gas I managed to move it about 100ft in total. Now that's bad gas mileage!

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Old 05-20-2016, 03:45 PM   #67
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Erik,
Nice job, The frame and suspension can be wire brushed then a solution that turns rust into a paint base can be used, the chassis paint and it will be good as new. I would plan on changing the brake lines, hoses and and fuel lines while you have the body off. The rotors will clean up with a wire wheel on your 4" grinder or if you want you could have a skin cut taken off at an auto shop that has a brake drum machine.
Frank
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:54 PM   #68
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Thanks Frank. I appreciate your encouragement.

I plan on dropping the frame off to be sandblasted. It's not that expensive and it will sure save me a lot of time and effort. All of the lines will be replaced, and some of the soft lines will be replaced with hard lines. The hydraulic jacks had soft lines running along the inside of the frame, so they will be replaced with hard lines as well. I like a clean chassis - it's much easier to work on, and more fun to show off when you visit car shows.

The brake rotors are pretty much shot. They are close to minimum thickness, so new rotors all the way around are the best bet, along with rebuilt calipers.

I'm not planning on rushing the renovation - it'll take whatever time it takes to be completed.
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:21 PM   #69
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:21 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by DeOrellana View Post
Got the brakes sorted out today. The first problem was the stuck front brakes. A couple of years of parking outside in the Swedish weather has really caused the rotors to rust.



With the wheel removed, you can also see the state of the front suspension and the frame.
the airbags still holding air?
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