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Old 07-14-2014, 09:34 PM   #71
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If you have a local Radio Shack I'd try there first.

Returns by itself = momentary. You'll need to know that, and the fact the points/contacts are normally open.

Other than that, if it looks right, it is.
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:16 AM   #72
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I must be losing my mind. My alternator had a cooked black wire when I originally started this investigation. When I chased it down it went to an external voltage regulator. In the same bundle, I saw 2 or 3 other wires cut back and tapped up (obvious it was modified and no longer used). The black was the ground and the others went to the external voltage regulator. Taking a closer look, 2 wires are still being used on the VR. I thought it no longer was being used and planned on removing it.

2 of the 3 left wires still intact. You can barely see the black wire on right side of VR.
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I assumed the alternator has an internal VR. Where does this play into the external go in the schematic?
Also, after removing the alternator and reinstalling it without the use of the VR, my low beams aren't working. High beams ARE. Is this related?
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:24 AM   #73
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Headlight issue not related. To troubleshoot those, see if there is power present at the bulb sockets when set to low beam. If not, I'd go to the dimmer switch first, and check there?
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:59 AM   #74
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Appears someone changed your charging system. Do you also have a Lestek alternator or did someone put the original GM one back in?

The Lestek regulator was designed to be used with a Lestek Alternator (no longer in business What is Lestek and how does a Le). The Lestek alternator was externally regulated.

Wiring diagram for a Lestek 6116 regulator based system: http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Le...0Regulator.PDF

If the regulator is bad and you have the Lestek alternator you can replace it with PeenTex version http://www.penntexusa.com/PX-4000-6116.pdf

Dave
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:10 AM   #75
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The first picture in post # 46 shows an alternator that has "Delco" cast into the housing...

You've had the alternator out and tested. Have you talked with them? What are they saying?
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:46 PM   #76
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Electrical schematic on 80's Rambler

Just spoke to the alternator guy. He said its a good chance it does use an external regulator. I will verify my red and brown go to power and ignition. Then rerun a new black/ground wire and the plug is my field wire(blue).

This may fix my alternator issue but won't change the aux button starting the starter motor vs jumper cables in which it's intended.
I have a handful of ignition wires on the switch. The schematic shows them not connect but I can trace the yellow wire directly from aux switch to ignition switch. I assume this isn't correct. What and where do the other wires go? My aux switch is 4 pole with 6 wires. Do I need to trace a certain pole that represents the blue on the schematic?

Yellow wire on aux switch
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Yellow wire on ignition switch
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On another note, I traced a wire from starter to this device by the oil filter.
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3 wires:
1 to starter
1 to 15amp fuse then continues to fuel pump
1 wire goes towards rear of rv

Any clue what it is and what the 3rd wire may go to?
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:48 PM   #77
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I know this is a long thread with a million questions. I do appreciate the help I have been given. It keeps me moving forward! At least I hope that's the direction I am going!
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:30 PM   #78
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The 3 wires above seem to be an oil pressure sensor since it's integrated into the casting by the oil filter. I can't think what else it could be. Still don't know where/what the 3rd wire is about.
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:43 PM   #79
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We talked about this switch earlier. The idea behind it is to kill power to the fuel pump when there is no oil pressure - hopefully because the engine isn't running.

The wire from the starter by passes this switch and powers the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. When the engine starts, you let go of the key and this wire goes dead. Power to the fuel pump is then provided by the wire you say leads to the rear. I think if you follow it further you'll find it comes from a power source of some kind. Could be a buss bar powered by the ign. switch, could be a relay, not sure.

Oh, and you're welcome! I'll hang in here as long as I think you're trying. -Al
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:28 PM   #80
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That is the oil sender/fuel pump cutoff switch. Used as a safety device to shut off the fuel pump if the engine shuts down if you are in an accident.
If I recall correctly, the original switch is no longer available so, like yours, you have to use a different style sending unit (when replaced) by cutting the wires, attach spade lugs and screw them to the posts on the switch.

Fuel circuit is shown on pdf page 141 of the Chassis Service Guide: iRV2 Forums - Files - P-30 Chev Motorhome Chassis Service Guide

Charging system is shown on pdf page 157.

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Old 07-17-2014, 09:44 PM   #81
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What are the odds that the solenoid that I thought was my aux start isn't what I think it appears to be. The manual just posted has a fix for hot starts on page 177.
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This looks more like what I have. In fact my aux start button appears to be running to the magnetic relay from the previous schematic which has me confused as can be!
I haven't confirmed all my wire runs as it gets difficult to trace all 6 wires on aux start switch and 6 wires on ignition without cutting wires in half.
Would this cause for my issue of cranking while engine is running?
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:18 AM   #82
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You're taking this in circles. Go back to posts 23 through 26.

That apparatus is a patch. Not necessary in anything but the most extreme heat conditions, to take care of a situation I've never even heard of, where when you turn the key to "start" and the starter relay (the one right on the starter) won't close due to excessive wire length. Complete crap.....

To amplify that stupidity, your coach has a second patch applied to the first patch, in that this useless relay wasn't installed per the normal directions, that have it operated by the ignition switch. Whoever installed this kit, decided to install a seperate switch whose sole purpose is run this unnecessary relay.

Suggest you try to put that switch and this stupid relay out of your mind. If the switch was marked "aux. start" it was marked correctly. It's function is the exact same as turning the ignition key to "start" position, with exactly the same results expected when you do that. Nothing more, nothing less.

It is not the same, nor does it have anything to do with a circuit most would expect from a normal "aux start" switch in a motorhome.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:19 PM   #83
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The drawing in the manual is how GM built you rig originally. It is not a patch. It matches the wiring diagrams I provided you.
The picture you provided earlier of the magnetic relay GM installed in your chassis.


Someone rewired things which is why you are having problems. Connected the way it is in that picture the magnetic solenoid WILL NOT WORK because there IS NOT A WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SMALL POST.
You are simply going to have to accept the fact that the AUX start switch is not supposed to be wired to that solenoid. Functionally, it is connected per that drawing above. The details are in the 1988 wiring diagram I provided you earlier.

This is the AUX Start relay the AUX Start switch is supposed to be connected to:


I provided this drawing to describe the way things are supposed to be wired irregardless of what of how it was rewired by someone else.


As a side note: If voltage source is constant (e.g 12.6VDC battery output) and the resistance increases (failing fusible link or corroded connection) the current will be reduced. Additionally, in that condition the voltage drop across the resistance increases. Thats simple basic electronics Ohms law theory http://www.school-for-champions.com/...m#.U8nKhUDb5TE

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Old 07-19-2014, 06:41 AM   #84
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Electrical schematic on 80's Rambler

Thanks for all the clarity.
I am a little confused on the ignition switch and how the schematic works (shows dual set of posts.
Can you explain what my other wires are doing and where I should look to find other ends?
From pic 2 post 76:

1. Red (12g) I assume is always hot.
2. Brown (12g) is coming from alt/voltage regulator. Not sure if it's a direct path or if it goes somewhere in between the 2.
3. Pink (12g) goes?
4. Yellow (12g) ignition wire goes to aux switch while joined with a blue wire (inline with wire, no switch needed to carry electricity)
5. Black (12g) is ground.
6. Then I have a smaller gage that is red with white stripe.

I should be able to test this by putting some connections back together and turning switches and keys to see what is activating what but I don't know where to start since I have every hot terminal taken off.
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