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Old 07-19-2014, 07:13 AM   #85
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Oh for Pete's sake. We were talking about passing enough "current" for a volt meter to register, not charge a battery or turn an engine over! He's tracing wires! Unless the fusible link has separated completely it's going to pass enough current for that purpose. That's easily as basic as Ohm's law...

To say otherwise is like saying a foot of speaker wire will have more of a voltage drop from one end to the other, as measured with a typical voltmeter, than a foot of double 0. Horse puckey..... To say otherwise only confuses things. That potential is completely out of context for our purposes here.

Bad connection? Maybe yes, maybe no. I've been led on a few wild goose chases because they did/would indicate a complete circuit, but would fail when you placed a load on them. Clearance lights will do this to you often. In any case, I wouldn't put those in the same category as a failing fusible link.

Fusible links are generally good, or bad. Like a fuse. In my lifetime, which includes 25 years of Chevy and RV dealership experience, I've never experienced a "failing" fusible link.

And the patch was applied by GM. Much like the airbags in the P-30 front coil springs.
Whatever. Makes no difference who installed it. It's unnecessary.

Splitting hairs like this is not helping anything.....

1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:07 AM   #86
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Posts: 1,513
First, here is the 11 x 17 wiring diagram from the 1988 manual I provided in post 23 (Electrical schematic on 80's Rambler)

That is how GM built your chassis. Coach mfg may make some changes but normally it will be 98% accurate. As shown in my previous hand drawing, the coach mfg added a diode isolator and AUX start solenoid. They should be integrated into the GM drawing in the manner I showed in my hand drawing.

Note: I have 1986 and 1987 GM drawings however they are difficult to read for someone not accustomed to that style of drawing.

Now referencing that drawing (Use bottom version ignition switch, not upper P42 Driveaway version):

1. Red (12g) I assume is always hot. Pin 2; goes to Magnetic switch
2. Brown (12g) is coming from alt/voltage regulator. Not sure if it's a direct path or if it goes somewhere in between the 2. Pin 4; 12 gauge brown (CKT 4) goes to fuse box. Smaller gauge brown (CKT 130) I believe goes to alternator.
3. Pink (12g) goes? Pin 3: Goes to fuse box
4. Yellow (12g) ignition wire goes to aux switch while joined with a blue wire (inline with wire, no switch needed to carry electricity) Pin 5 (forget AUX switch, thats the incorrect rewire causing this mess); Goes to Neutral Safety switch
5. Black (12g) is ground. Pin 150
6. Then I have a smaller gage that is red with white stripe. Not sure. May have been added by Coach mfg.

Age, heat, and add on's by an unknowing owner have a way of causing a fusible link to fail. Have had to replace a few on older MH's and cars. While an unloaded connection will reflect full voltage most people are testing the circuit in use which reflects the increased voltage drop because current is flowing.


Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
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