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Old 07-19-2014, 06:13 AM   #85
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Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
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Oh for Pete's sake. We were talking about passing enough "current" for a volt meter to register, not charge a battery or turn an engine over! He's tracing wires! Unless the fusible link has separated completely it's going to pass enough current for that purpose. That's easily as basic as Ohm's law...

To say otherwise is like saying a foot of speaker wire will have more of a voltage drop from one end to the other, as measured with a typical voltmeter, than a foot of double 0. Horse puckey..... To say otherwise only confuses things. That potential is completely out of context for our purposes here.

Bad connection? Maybe yes, maybe no. I've been led on a few wild goose chases because they did/would indicate a complete circuit, but would fail when you placed a load on them. Clearance lights will do this to you often. In any case, I wouldn't put those in the same category as a failing fusible link.

Fusible links are generally good, or bad. Like a fuse. In my lifetime, which includes 25 years of Chevy and RV dealership experience, I've never experienced a "failing" fusible link.

And the patch was applied by GM. Much like the airbags in the P-30 front coil springs.
Whatever. Makes no difference who installed it. It's unnecessary.

Splitting hairs like this is not helping anything.....

1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:07 AM   #86
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First, here is the 11 x 17 wiring diagram from the 1988 manual I provided in post 23 (Electrical schematic on 80's Rambler)

That is how GM built your chassis. Coach mfg may make some changes but normally it will be 98% accurate. As shown in my previous hand drawing, the coach mfg added a diode isolator and AUX start solenoid. They should be integrated into the GM drawing in the manner I showed in my hand drawing.

Note: I have 1986 and 1987 GM drawings however they are difficult to read for someone not accustomed to that style of drawing.

Now referencing that drawing (Use bottom version ignition switch, not upper P42 Driveaway version):

1. Red (12g) I assume is always hot. Pin 2; goes to Magnetic switch
2. Brown (12g) is coming from alt/voltage regulator. Not sure if it's a direct path or if it goes somewhere in between the 2. Pin 4; 12 gauge brown (CKT 4) goes to fuse box. Smaller gauge brown (CKT 130) I believe goes to alternator.
3. Pink (12g) goes? Pin 3: Goes to fuse box
4. Yellow (12g) ignition wire goes to aux switch while joined with a blue wire (inline with wire, no switch needed to carry electricity) Pin 5 (forget AUX switch, thats the incorrect rewire causing this mess); Goes to Neutral Safety switch
5. Black (12g) is ground. Pin 150
6. Then I have a smaller gage that is red with white stripe. Not sure. May have been added by Coach mfg.

Age, heat, and add on's by an unknowing owner have a way of causing a fusible link to fail. Have had to replace a few on older MH's and cars. While an unloaded connection will reflect full voltage most people are testing the circuit in use which reflects the increased voltage drop because current is flowing.


Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:12 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
The solenoid on the top by the air cleaner is the Magnetic Start Relay (GM P/N 1115616 [old GM P/N 1114535]). Ensures you get solid B+ voltage to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid (mounted on starter) when you place ignition key to start. There should be wires on both small terminals. One of yours does not look like it has a wire connected to it. With the modifications the PO made, you are going to have to get the chassis wiring diagrams to make sense of this. The 86 & 87 wiring diagrams are difficult to follow with the way GM did them. Here is a 88 version http://johnnynightstick.s3.amazonaws...lete_11x17.pdf

Go to pdf page 351 (book page E-17) for the P30 Starter circuit

The one down by the battery is the AUX Start relay used to cross connect the chassis and house battery systems. That is the one I show in this drawing:

The GM books cover both pickups and P30 chassis. A pickup does not use a magnetic starter relay which is why it is not reflected in that drawing I modified. The magnetic starter relay is inserted in the top line that goes back to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid from the ignition switch.

Dave, this thread was way back in 2014, almost 4 years ago. I wonder if you are still active in the forum. If you are, hopefully so, I have a question about a referral you made to the other Dave to go to: Here is a 88 version http://johnnynightstick.s3.amazonaws...lete_11x17.pdf . I have tried to access this manual but it is no longer available. I have followed this thread carefully as I have had a similar problem on my 1991 Allegro Basement Model. Are you still around???
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Old 04-07-2018, 06:23 AM   #88
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Hey PJFSAIL, still around but barely. I ended up working on the RV for a year before I took a job in Australia. RV wasnít fully fixed and ended up giving it to a good friend that was helping me work on it. We had removed every wiring harness (3 times) while chasing an odd smoking wire while cranking at startup.
Iím happy to help answer anything but be prepared for a cynical response after my bus killed any desire to restore something!

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