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Old 09-07-2007, 08:34 PM   #15
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One thing I would not run a big rig diesel oil in a older gas engine it has too much detergent or additives not good on older motors. I once thought BS about this but at a place I once worked one of a laborers was using the diesel motor oil in his pinto and not too long after he got a rod knock or other type of knock.

One easy way to tell a wrist pin or rod knock is to pull off one plug wire at a time until the noise stops or changes when ideling. It could also be piston slap or a piston installed back wards.
Most wrist pin knocks will lessen or go away when warmed up.

Most large shops will drop the motor out from the bottom . You unbolt the suspension the lift the coach up leaving the motor sitting on the floor.

Brian
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:43 AM   #16
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Seeing how this is a motor problem and not a M.H. problem I'll jump in. I put 34 years at Buick Motor Div. Had a VERY similar problem with a 403. Did everthing. tappets, push rods, etc. Turned out to be the oil pump,and ONLY at idle ?????? Lots of luck.
(the more you listen to a problem, the louder it gets)
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:28 AM   #17
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Bigbusguy, If you ever looked at a Chevy P-30,you would have a hard time dropping the engine from under.You would have to cut the frame out to do it! On the vans and p chassis you pull thru hhe nose or with a little luck out the doorway, If you had one!
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:18 PM   #18
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Thanks again for all the input to this problem.

I started the engine again today; starts right up. The sound, sort of like marbles banging into each other, disappears on fast idle. You can only hear the "sound" when I slip the tranny into drive or reverse...that slows the engine rpm and the "sound" appears.

I am pretty sure this "sound" has been with the RV for a long time (at least a few years)...as I could not hear it because of the leaking exhause manifolds. With the new manifolds, engine noise is way down.

This weekend I will drive RV onto the driveway pad and then carry out some checks, such as using a pry bar to listen to where the sound is coming from, removing one spark plug wire at a time etc.....to try to isolate location of the sound.

On engine removal, it looks like the engine would have to be pulled through the front...there is no way to drop the engine...all the suspension gets in the way....possibly frame too as Capt Dan mentions.

Again, thanks, HEMI
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Old 09-14-2007, 03:34 PM   #19
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if you have a cam corder and a way to get the vid to the computer you can post it up and you tube. set up the cam and start the RV let it run and capture the sound. if we could hear it too we could give you a better idea of the problem.

On thing I think is odd is if the 454 is Gas,(I am assuming it is) youare running 15/40 oil in it. 15/40 is usually a Diesel Oil. I would try 10/30 or 10/40 in it. it could be some thing that simple. the thicker oil is not going where it needs to and it's making thing noisy at idle. I would try that too.

good luck
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Old 09-14-2007, 06:38 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
Oi!! Wouldn't that kick you in the head!!?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Bigbusguy, The motor is only a year old now and only has about27,000 miles and broke in with streight 30w oil and then 5w30 or 10w30 Valoline. I switched because I don't like 20W50, Even in Arizona. It was using some oil with 10W30 so I went with 15W40. A four Banger can survive with that And I will change back if we are to be anywhere cold[below35 Degrees]. The engine in the Motor Home has about 60 miles on it! It has 10w30 Max Life in it for break in and will get 15w40 after a thousand miles or so along with Slick 50!! I have added slick 50 in the truck since after the first oil change last year I think.. Both Vehicles were rebuilt motors and lots of goodies since I was the one doing the service on them. Not that I don't trust These oil change places, But I don't trust them!! The last time I tried to use one they left the oil plug AND the oil filter BOTH loose!! I do it myself and if the park don't like it...Tough!
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:01 AM   #21
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You said the sound goes away when you increase RPMs.
I had a simmilar problem with a jeep 4.0 recently. It developed a knock that would go away with an increase in rpms. I had it checked and found that it was a carbon deposit some where which was causing the noise.
I treated it with Seafoam and it cleaned up the issue. I have since driven the thing all over and have not had a problem, no noise, or anything. It has good compression, oil pressure and runs great.

Just a thought. The can of Seafoam was about 5.00.
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:59 PM   #22
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Mine is on a 13000 gvw chevy chassy and what I see is the crossmember is bolted on and unbolting it the motor will come out the bottom with the front supension and all?
Nothing to cut I guess its a p30.

brian
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
Bigbusguy, If you ever looked at a Chevy P-30,you would have a hard time dropping the engine from under.You would have to cut the frame out to do it! On the vans and p chassis you pull thru hhe nose or with a little luck out the doorway, If you had one! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 09-22-2007, 09:09 PM   #23
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I have seen then pull them outand I only saw them pulling from a drivers door,[if you have one], or thru the front. Mine was easy, Three hours and the engine and transmission on the ground in front of the home!
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:21 PM   #24
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I have seen them pull them also . Depends on the model on how easy to remove all the grill and other things. Mine would be easy out the bottom or the grill. But they will come out from the bottom but you need a hoist the make it easy and lift the RV leaving the motor sitting on the front crossmember wheels and all. Yes there is more then 1 or 2 ways to get the motor out.
Maybe the realy new ones dont have the bolt on front crossmember then it will not work but mine it will easy.
Brian
QUOTE]Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
I have seen then pull them outand I only saw them pulling from a drivers door,[if you have one], or thru the front. Mine was easy, Three hours and the engine and transmission on the ground in front of the home![/QUOTE]
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:10 AM   #25
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Hold on now.Before you guys have a contest pulling Hemi's engine and trans.LOL He said it sounded like marbles.Hemi,take a look at your power steering pump,A/C compressor pump,water pump and heat raiser on your exhuast.Also,check the alt.I have heard nosies like that from these units when the drive bearings go bad.I have heard nosies like that when the ext heat rasier is not working right.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:58 AM   #26
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bigbusguy@yahoo.com:
Mine is on a 13000 gvw chevy chassy and what I see is the crossmember is bolted on and unbolting it the motor will come out the bottom with the front supension and all?
Nothing to cut I guess its a p30.

brian
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
Bigbusguy, If you ever looked at a Chevy P-30,you would have a hard time dropping the engine from under.You would have to cut the frame out to do it! On the vans and p chassis you pull thru hhe nose or with a little luck out the doorway, If you had one! </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bigbusguy, Do you have a Workhorse or the older Chevy chassis??? The older motorhomes have a crossmember that is NO fun to get out!! I couldn't as there is no way on mine to get to the heads of the bolts, other than cutting a hole on the coach frame. They,[Coachmen], Welded the coach frame to the chassis frame and it is a box type frame the bolts are in that frame, I can't get to the bolts with a wrench to take off the nuts and washers. Also I can't get the bolts to come out for the same reason. When I talked to Chevy about this they told me to get a crane and the bracket to mount on the carburetor mount and pick it up and pull out the front. They were right! It came out easy as pie!!!
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Old 09-28-2007, 06:45 AM   #27
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Hello again, its hemi:

My mechanic I use for our cars loaned me his stethescope.

1. There was no unusual sound coming from the fuel pump. So I am rulling out the fuel pump and pump pushrod.

2. There was no unusual sound coming block when the engine is running.

3. When I put the stethescope wand on the valve cover I can hear the the sound....sort of clatter clatter. Thus, as a first guess I am thinking the sound I hear is related to valve rocker arms or pushrods???

Fleamarketer, you have made some more suggestions which I will check this weekend.

As I told you this sound become very noticeable after I got back the RV from a truck repair garage...they replaced the exhaust manifold. They also tightened the AC fan belt. Thus I will follow your suggestions.

Also what is the ext heat raiser? The mechanic installed new cast iron manifolds. The old manifolds included some sort of strange looking emission control features ... again, the new exhaust manifold is a heavy looking cast iron.

HEMI
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Old 09-28-2007, 06:48 AM   #28
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jw johnson, what is seafoam....how is it applied? thanks, HEMI
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