Engine Sound, 454 big block, in 86 Holiday Rambler

[JimElliott]

Hemi, Since I use "Seafoam" on a weekly basis on engines and generators heres what and how.............

On a ~HOT~ engine I slowly pour it down the carb or TBI until the engine dies....Problem is IF your NOT up to the POURING you might end up with liquid lock on the engine (MAJOR PROBLEM).

If you are skilled e'nuf once the Seafoam is in the engine and the engine stops just walk away from the rig for about 1 hour and let the product do it's thing...Lotsa smoke will billow out the pipes for 5+ minutes and I mean LOTSA SMOKE but the top end will clean up very nice.........

Another way is (easier) just dump in one ounce per gallon of what you have in your tank (32 gallons of fuel = 2 16oz cans of Seafoam and while your at it run the generator also to keep the carb clean.

Another great product is "Berryman B12" which cleans up the fuel system BUT doesn't really attack the carbon problem like Seafoam will.

Jim

[Freebie]

Jim. I have used Seafoam as well but I use it a little differently. I un hook the brake booster vacum line from the booster itself and hook up a funnel. I then slowly pour in about half a bottle at a rate where the engine has a lower rpm but does not die. then while pouring I have some one shut it off and stop pouring. let it sit about 30-60 min and refire. going with the vacum line instead of the carb or tbi reduces the chances of hydrolocking the motor. that may also a little more access able than the carb or tbi on a class A.

[JimElliott]

Arin, Yes the vacuum line is another way and a good one also, The main thing is let it sit/set and allow the Seafoam to work.

Working on a Aston Martin right now with a ornery idle condition and 1 can (16oz) into a 20 gallon tank is slowly working and I might richen up the Seafoam to 1 oz per gallon BUT on the freeway it snorts

Jim

[nhgeezer]

Carefull using the vacuum booster hose as that tends to feed 2 or 3 cylinders more than the others because of it's placement in the intake manifold.
Brad & Lucy
1990 Foretravel Detroit
ASE Master Technician

[Hemi]

Jim Elliot and Freebie...

Seafoam, most interesting...I learn something every day. I went to the seafoam page page
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreepTech.htm

Is DeepCreep the same product? also, it says that it can be sprayed down carburator. My 454 has a carburator (not fuel injected)...
thus can I just spray it down the carburator while the engine is running.

I would get a bit nervous pouring a liquid down the carburator or even through a vacuum line.

One thing to note is that I do often have detonation after I shut off the engine. And also the engine has been running pretty rich (some black smoke coming out the exhaust)...thus there could be considerable carbon built up in the combusion chamber.

From your comments and also info on the seafoam webpage the seafoam formulation breaks down the carbon in the combustion chamber...correct?

Again, most interesting, HEMI

[Hemi]

After my post, I did some searching on the internet...I found this video:

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=220804

(click on the video link).

Seems pretty straightforward...would you recommend Deep Creep Sea Foam...it would seem that it would be best and most effective to spray down the carburator...

Also, some sites recommended changing the oil after the treatment....

It seems that in using straight SeaFoam that after ~half the can is used you shut down the engine...I guess to allow the SeaFoam to "eat away" the carbon deposits....correct?

Again, I will wait for some comments...

In the use of SeaFoam I am working on the assumption that the sound I am hearing is due to a carbon build up somewhere in the combustions chamber. I am not sure...but using SeaFoam is worth a try,
HEMI

[fleamarketer]

Well,I guess I got to be the odd man out on seaform.Comanies talk guys into clean is good.On new engines I agree.But engines that have some miles on them have varnish and carbor build up taking up clearances for worn parts.Remove those build ups and the clearances become bigger.Chances for greater oil use are there,more valve train noise are there,looser valve guides are there,etc.Truely there isn't a magic liquid for a engine the is due for a rebuild.It becomes a pay me now or pay me later case at hand anyways.Moral of this is you don't put a band aid on a issue,you fix it right the first time.

Over 40 yrs in engines and mechanics.

[fleamarketer]

Oh-BTW,the dieseling you get on shut down is a carb problem I think.True enough carbon can add to this issue,but I would be looking to rebuild or replace the carb.The yrs of non treated gas(stable) and storeage of the MH has finnally got to you.

[nhgeezer]

Deiseling on shut down is almost always a signal that the carburetor idles speed is set a bit too high or there is a vacuum leak in the system. Back in the 70's the manufacturers were installing a solenoid on the idle stop that would close the throttle plates when the ignition was shut off. I have used these devices on some 80's vehicles to solve deisel on shut down.

Brad Sears
ASE Master Technician

[fleamarketer]

Thanks Brad.Ya I forgot about those.Senior moment I guess.LOL

[JimElliott]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Seems pretty straightforward...would you recommend Deep Creep Sea Foam...it would seem that it would be best and most effective to spray down the carburator... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hemi, Deep creep is used on air tools and could "fog" down a engine and somewhat cleanup the carb blades..........

Since you are carbed like mine I have a small funnel that fits tight over the vent (near center of the Rochester carb) which fills the bowls very nicely while running the engine....I run 1500 rpms while pouring the stuff in and return to idle just before the can runs dry and that kills the engine.........

Agreed on the high idle which will contribute to "RUN ON" with ignition OFF but mine idles at 800 RPM (no loads) and 725 RPM in gear BUT back to the "marbles" you hear...It could be the A.I.R. pump rattle at low speeds..Drive it till something breaks then you will know for sure.

If anyone has "run on" after switching off the ignition just leave it in gear and switch off, If it doesn't continue to run on your idle is set tooooo high so get out the tach and set it right.

Jim

[fleamarketer]

Kind of gets back to what I said.Don't treat the result of the source,fix the problem.The truth is that patch work engine repairs result in the engine finding the leakest link.The example of this could be you rebuild the top haft of this engine and because the the heads and valve train are now tight the pressure to the rings and might not be a completely round bore,you have a increase in oil use or blow-by.Check the compression on each cyclinder.From one to the other there should not be a difference of no more than 10%.If there is,you should look closely at that cyclinder.A leakdown test will show you if it is a intake/exhuast valve,valve seals,rings etc.It give you a window on the condition of the engine.Based on that,you can make a informed decision on what to fix.Keep posting to let us know what you have found.Noises will travel some distances and could miss lead you.Marble sounds like I said,bearing noise from a Alt,power steering pump,A/C pump,A.I.R pump,water pump.In terms of the water pump,you should look at the fan to see if it is running straight or not.If you see the fan moving around,well then it could be the bearing in the water pump making the noises.

[Vette Racer]

I haven't read the entire thread so forgive me if I repeat something.

To get rid of everything on the outside of the engine, remove the belts and start it up. If you still have noise it has to be something in or on the engine, not an accessory. Check the balancer on the front of the engine, these do come apart and will cause a rattle. After that its time to pull the valve covers and see if anything is broken or loose in the valve train. If it has a miss then you could have a broken valve spring, a broken rocker, broken pushrod if its the early kind with the ball, or a worn out lobe on the cam. If it doesn't miss it could be a loose rocker, carbon, or rod, or ? After that if you really think its something in the cylinder area, try removing a plug wire one at a time but placing another plug in the wire so not to mess up the HEI and running it for a moment without that cylinder firing, if the noise goes away or changes, thats the one causing the noise and if that happens it could be carbon or rod. If its carbon, try running some transmission fluid slowly through the carb while holding the rpms up and engine warm, that will burn it out if thats the problem, also the noise will change and kind of go crazy. Make sure you are outside while doing this as it will smoke like no tomorrow. I've trouble shot a lot of big block problems in my day and the above steps (if you know what you're doing) will usually lead you to the problem or the area of the problem. The only one that took a complete teardown to find was a thrust surface on the crank that was eating its self up. That one defied everything until I decided it had to come down to find the noise and it was in a new motor that I had just built and run a few times. Turned out the new crank from GM was bent .006, just enough to cause the crank to "walk" in the block. A well placed hammer swing by a great machinist fixed the bend, welding and turning fixed the rest, but I got to tear the motor down and put it back together again. Ah, the joys of building racing big blocks, or any engine for that matter.

Good luck with your search, I'd hate to have to do it in a MH. Be sure and let us know what you find.

[fleamarketer]

Hey Tom,
That suggestion about the h/balancer is a good one.Great post over all.We ran BBC's in the early years in Super Gas.The bottom line is he needs to locate "it".