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Old 10-01-2007, 02:11 PM   #43
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Vette Racer </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Vette Racer
Thanks for your careful analysis...it is a mystery...I am testing each cyl (removing plug wire, one at a time, now. Is using transmission fluid a variation on the seafoam treatment discussed above.
Also, I mentioned seafoam to a neighbor down the street...he said that slowly adding water down the carb is the same as seafoam. Actually I am pretty nervous about the proposed seafoam treatment as I don't wish to create another problem.

I will be back with my results....removing plug wires,

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Old 10-01-2007, 06:32 PM   #44
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I have sprayed water down the intake. I was told by a old head mechanic it makes steam the burns off the carbon.
I sprayed it in running at 2500 to 3000 rpm or so . I sprayed enough until the motor speed slowed.
On the dieseling lower the idle or just turn it off in gear. Most dieseling is the motor still running off the red hot carbon. On older motors your only turning off the spark and if something is making the fuel still burn like excessive carbon it will keep running.
If your going to try to adjust the valves its easy. Just back off each one with the motor running until you hear it ticking then tighten it up till it just stops ticking. do all on one side. Turn off the motor and then tighten each one 3/4 a turn. It may run ruff for a few min, but should run smooth. Some say 1/2 a turn but the factory says 1 turn. I been doing 3/4 turn from O lash and I get 200K + out of my rebuilds.

Take a look at spark plugs may have the wrong heat range. Try running a better brand of fuel.
Dont wast your money on poring high doller treatments down the carb.
good luck

1974 Shasta 24 foot class A

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Old 10-01-2007, 06:41 PM   #45
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I'm not familiar with the seafoam and the trans fluid is another one of those old tricks to create heat to burn the carbon, I've never tried water but I don't see why it wouldn't work. At least with the trans fluid there is a little lubrication.
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:31 AM   #46
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I am checking each cyl to detect a change in sound (clack) when I disconnect a spark plug wire, one by one.

I read last night that in doing this I need to ground the spark wire I disconnet. I am assuming that I ground the spark plug wire by running a lead from the wire to the frame or another metal part of the unit, correct? The article said that I could potentially damage electronic ignition if I just let the wire hang loose while I do the test. Correct?

I am old-school person (50s) where we use to check firing by just pulling off the spark plug wire...

Please confirm, thanks, HEMI
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:43 AM   #47
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Yes sir, you ground the plug wire with a jumper. Leaving the wire dangling could allow the high voltage spark to jump inside the distributor cap and hit the electronic module, disaster. I have used water as well as most of the other home remidies, but have found that if the snake oil makes it seam better there is a real problem that needs to be addressed.
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Old 10-02-2007, 11:55 AM   #48
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">nhgeezer </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Many thanks....I will use a jumper for the test, ...I am going to pass on using the "snake oil" remedy for now...I am pretty sure the cleck-cleck (not ckick click or knock knock) is coming from underneath the valve covers...after I finish the spark plug wire test I will pull off the valve covers and have a look, again, thanks, HEMI
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Old 10-16-2007, 04:35 PM   #49
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Anything new to report?? Updates are needed!!!!
Hope you found the problem and you are getting ready to run down the road!!

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