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Old 04-26-2015, 05:03 PM   #15
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Forgot about the fan clutch.

With engine cold grab a blade and push it towards bumpers...front and back to see if you feel any slop.

Then try to spin it and it should have some drag. If it spins freely or has slop it needs to be changed.

It can harm the water pump if it is sloppy.
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:04 PM   #16
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When I lived in Vegas back in 70's the first thing to yank out of our big block cars/trucks was the radiators.

The reason being was even though the radiator was large, it didn't have the cooling cores(2) to help with the heat. The vehicle you bought in Minnesota was same radiator that was in a vehicle from southern Arizona. It just won't work unless it's been set up for the correct surroundings.

We changed them to 3 or 4 core radiators to gain more cooling capacity to help the engines not overheat.

I'm unsure as to how many cooling cores you have in your radiator, but if you only see 2, then you need to change to help with cooling.

Rodding-out won't help get rid of heat if you don't have enough cooling capacity to start with.

Of course while radiator's out, you'll want to replace that 30+yr old water pump now that it's easy to get to and replace to a 185* thermostat and replace upper/lower hoses and heater hoses to make sure everything is in tip top shape for your travels.

You might just want to also do as another member mentioned, to clean block and old radiator out of as much crud(rust/scale) as possible, BEFORE you install a new radiator.
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:23 PM   #17
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After changing out the thermostat to a 160, and pressure checking the system, it still runs way too hot. It hit 220 in the matter of 5 miles or so. I have tuned it up, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air and fuel filter as soon as I got it about a month ago. I do not hear the fan clutch roar. I removed the dog box and spun the fan clutch by hand and have resistance and no slop. I am going to replace the fan clutch, flush the system, pull the ac condenser and clean out the radiator behind it. Since the ac does not work anyway, I am going to leave the condenser out and relocate the electric fans closer to the radiator.
The fan shroud is tight against the radiator and is solid so that is a plus there. The radiator looks to be at least a 3 core, probably a four. It was sold originally in Louisiana so I hope that when it was built they took that into consideration.
If all this does not solve the issue, I am going in deeper and pull the radiator and send it to the shop to be boiled and rodded out. While that is going on, I will go ahead and replace the water pump.
I will keep everyone apprised of what happens when I work on it this coming weekend.
I would have gotten more done this weekend but I had to repair my daily driver, a 2000 Volvo all wheel drive wagon. I normally work on Volvo's so I have learned patience a long time ago, they are a different breed all together!
Thanks for all the info and directions to solving this.
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:38 PM   #18
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Thermostats do not cool an engine...they only reduce water flow to get engine temp up and keep it above a set point.

The 160 is too low for the engine but does not matter now.

It is getting hot fast, does running the heater make a difference?

If you pull the cap can you see the water flowing?

Check lower rad hose as they can collapse with water pump suction.

Check timing.

Water pump could be bad...pulled rad on bobcat due to leaks and pressure tested block and water pump leaked so pulled it as easy now.

The impeller was loose inside and not turning.

Good thing diesels like heat and it is just for yard work.

Remove some water so you can see the cores and water flow and see what it looks like if your configuration allows.

Also a stupid note...there may be air in the system so be sure it is good.

Also scanning with ir thermometer may tell you where the hot spots are.

Does it run hot while parked?

It may have clogged exaust so check temp on both sides.
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Old 04-26-2015, 11:28 PM   #19
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I purged the system of air, and the coolant is circulating, it is hard to see how the flow is though because of the configuration of the radiator. It does warm up to about 210 while parked. The exhaust is clear and I am going to replace both hoses, the fan clutch and flush the system this upcoming weekend. I have an IR and am going to check that as well.
It gets to well over a hundred here in Texas during the summer months, which summer is pretty much 9 to 10 months out of the year here, lol.
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Old 04-27-2015, 01:38 AM   #20
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I did forget to mention, are you sure the gauge is correct?
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Old 04-27-2015, 01:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sknight View Post
I did forget to mention, are you sure the gauge is correct?
X2

next I would replace the rad with an all aluminum (aluminum tanks) racing rad cheap race rad

next I would add oil capacity and cooling.

My 1983 6.2L diesel you see the connection to oil temperature...(it could not climb a hill at 65mph even towing it)

Also, I wounder if a higher volume water pump is available? I would look at tricks people racing 454 do to keep them cool..
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:33 AM   #22
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DO NOT start changing things out for racing equipment. This stuff is made to be light and is changed out often due to racing of going fast for short burst of time then let to cool down between runs. Some racing equipment is built quite good and I've used it, but cooling equipment that is needed to be used everyday is not one of them in this case.

You need heavy duty equipment for long distance, hard usage and long periods of time that can handle the job.

One thing to also look at is the antifreeze. Too much does raise the boiling point, but doesn't help with cooling. That's the job of the water. For these older vehicles the mixture was 50/50, but going to a maximum 60/40 shouldn't hurt since you still have cast iron block/heads.

Also use distilled water, cause it won't have the minerals in it to buildup scale/rust deposits that iron engines cause from electrolysis.

Don't go lower than a 180* thermostat. The stat works to slow down the flowing antifreeze to let the radiator have time to help cool the next round of flow. This is done by that spring you see on a stat by relaxing/ contracting the valve to regulate cool/hot antifreeze mixture. If you use a colder temp stat, the radiator won't be given time to cool anything down as the stat will be constantly open and just as bad as not having a thermostat installed.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:47 AM   #23
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A voice of reason .

This MH made it to today, with the standard equipment.

I can't see changing all sorts of parts, to try to improve it. He just needs to identify the problem and fix it.
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Old 04-27-2015, 01:32 PM   #24
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It would not surprise me if the mechanical gauge were wrong. A PO installed a mechanical temp gauge in mine also, and it is really off. First time I drove it I nearly had a coronary seeing 280* when the fan clutch kicked in. After it cooled down, the gauge was only dropping to 190* cold. Then I was like .
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:02 PM   #25
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Silly thought...

Pickup location?

Not sure on this but just tossing it out.

Are we sure the location of the pickup is correct?

There may be a spot that a sending unit may fit but is at a hotter spot in the block.

Sounds silly but something to think about.

The ir thermometer will tell you more.

Also be sure to test the cap.

If you do not have a pressure testor and it looks anything not like new replace it.

Make sure to get proper pressure.
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:53 PM   #26
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I installed a mechanical temp as soon as I got this rig since the original one in the dash is inoperable. I could not get the original sending unit out so I had to switch sides and put in on the passenger side of the engine. My plan of attack this weekend is to change out the fan clutch, both hoses, flush the system and put a 180 thermostat in. Then I am going to remove the ac condenser since the cabin ac is shot anyway. I am also replacing the transmission cooler while I am in there, the one there is in pretty bad shape, no leaks yet, but very old and battered.
I work in the auto parts business and had a fan clutch in stock for the motor home application. I have been in the business for over 25 years and have been turning wrenches probably as long as that as well. I compared the resistance between the two fan clutches and the difference is night and day. The oe one is shot. I am going to service the whole system plus clean the years of grime and dirt that I am sure is behind the condenser.
It's going to be a long weekend on the rig, but in the end I am sure I will solve this problem.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:12 PM   #27
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I had a 94 Vectra and the radiator needed to be serviced and rebuilt as it was running hot on extended hillis I was climbing Replace it and you will be ok. The coach is old.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:05 PM   #28
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Engine Temps on an 86 Pace Arrow 454

The plan of attack this weekend is to replace the fan clutch, both hoses, flush the system, remove the ac condenser since the cabin ac is shot anyway. Clean out the fins on the radiator, replace the trans cooler, its not leaking but it is old and looks to be on its last leg anyway. I am also going to check the timing and replace all the vacuum hose while I am in there. I already replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Also installed a mechanical temp gauge when I first got the rig which is why I am concerned about the temps. I could not get the original sending unit out so I had to install the sensor on the passenger side of the engine. The factory gauge is inoperable.
I compared the old fan clutch to a new one and the difference in resistance is night and day. I work in the aftermarket auto parts field and have been in that line of work for over 25 years. I have also been turning wrenches for at least that long, lol.
I will give an update this weekend after I take these steps.
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