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Old 04-30-2015, 10:05 PM   #43
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Ok, I just went out and visually inspected the entire exhaust system from the heads all the way to the back of the beast. Dual exhaust, no cats, all factory.
While the A.I.R. seems to be functioning for now, would I cause problems with just removing the belt from the pump and forgetting about it?
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:10 PM   #44
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As long as everything else is active it is good
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:14 PM   #45
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So just leave it hooked up til it croaks?
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:31 PM   #46
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They do draw a bit of power from the engine and some believe the air injected near the ex valves not so good for the valve.

Most share belt with waterpump and alternator but some are singles.

So if singke simple pull belt and if shared then figure out correct sixe and be sure air pump was not the adjuster.

Cap the vacuum hoses that control it.

Also examing timing and distributor as they run retarded and have a vacuum advance when it gets too hot.

Review the emmissions controls and some can be left alone while others csn be bypassed or disabled.

Get a multiyear aftermarket manual like haynes for a vehicle or chassis thst is close with same engine.

Large pickup maybe...

Look at federal vs california vs new vs old to see differences in adjustments and equipment.

Aftermarket holly carb if not efi.

If efi then look gor assorted valves dist. And other assorted items.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:40 PM   #47
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It's a single belt, quadrajet carb. I very familiar with the quadrajets having grown up with them in the parts world. I am 46 and started in auto parts when I was 19. I have been turning wrenches even longer than that. I think I will remove the belt, cap off the lines and see how it does. I will take pictures and make a diagram of it before I do all this in case I run into issues.
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:43 AM   #48
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If you look down under the alternator you will find a second pump that runs off the serpentine belt.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:48 AM   #49
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One thing that has not been addressed.On a chevy powered motorhome the engine is timed from the bottom. It is from the #5 cylinder. That is because you can't see #1. If they used a mirror and timed from number 1, your timing would be off.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:36 AM   #50
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sknight, there is always coolant flowing thru the radiator from the heater line that runs from the block to the radiator. Also thru the small bleed hole in the thermostat if there is one.
I agree that some fan clutches do lock up slowly, usually on light duty pick-ups and cars, but the heavy duty style on the medium duty truck engines do lock up pretty solid at a predetermined temperature. Having worked for Cummins, GM and International and on other brands that came into the shop and having to test the fan clutches here in Arizona I know this for a fact. I have run hundreds of vehicles on the dyno so very easy to tell when the fan is on or not.
The fan clutch on my old Itasca has about a 5 degree range from on to off. It is the Autozone heavy duty that I had to order.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:53 PM   #51
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Well, tomorrow I shall dive in and replace the fan clutch, hoses and flush the system. Then a road test to see how things do. If all turns out well, I will leave well enough alone for now. I have a 2000 Volvo V70XC that needs a little TLC as well, lol. Life never stops my friends!
Thank you all for your insight and help.
I will post an update tomorrow evening.
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Old 05-02-2015, 02:39 AM   #52
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sknight, there is always coolant flowing thru the radiator from the heater line that runs from the block to the radiator. Also thru the small bleed hole in the thermostat if there is one.
I agree that some fan clutches do lock up slowly, usually on light duty pick-ups and cars, but the heavy duty style on the medium duty truck engines do lock up pretty solid at a predetermined temperature. Having worked for Cummins, GM and International and on other brands that came into the shop and having to test the fan clutches here in Arizona I know this for a fact. I have run hundreds of vehicles on the dyno so very easy to tell when the fan is on or not.
The fan clutch on my old Itasca has about a 5 degree range from on to off. It is the Autozone heavy duty that I had to order.
Yes, depending on design some coolant flows to the radiator bypassing the thermostat, but isn't enough to cool the engine or significantly heat the air flowing through the radiator, the bleed hole is insignificant to this conversation as it doesn't flow enough to effect the results. They're all different, but the function is the same, they will always spin some to move air as a reference, then progressively tighten up as dictated by design. The idea is to move as much air as necessary but no more, improving efficiency and MPG, not to mention noise.

I did say it varies by application, some apply slowly, some are more sudden, some apply slowly to a certain degree, then reach a tipping point where it pretty much just locks up. It's all a function of design. The modern electronic ones are impressive, responding through ecm output to respond to engine temp or the AC being turned on before the temps change.

I spent 10 years with GM, four years with a municipality dealing with them all from basic non thermally controlled clutches to the big hydraulically controlled monsters on HD trucks, and for the last seven years I've been with Hayden. I've wrestled with a few myself.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:11 PM   #53
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Ok, fan clutch installed, new drive belt installed and replaced all the vacuum lines which were original. Every one of them was dry rotted and cracked.
I left the A.I.R. pumps alone and hooked up. There are two of them as I was told, one on a v belt and the other one on the serpentine drive.
Temps are holding at 190 at idle, around 200 to 205 driving. I am happy with that. I also changed the filter in the carb. The beast starts right up and idles fine, and runs ok under light throttle. There is a dead spot with the throttle under load however. I am thinking either the vacuum advance is stuck or the egr valve is stuck. Since they are relatively cheap, I am going to change both and see what happens.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:47 AM   #54
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what thermostat are you running. After replacing my 195 stat with a 180. I still ran with those numbers. It was after I recored the radiator the temps dropped down to 180 and stays there.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #55
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Might pull the distributor cap and check the advance weights for sticking or wear also along with the vac. advance.
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:24 PM   #56
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BA, I am running a 180 right now, but I think I may be running lean at the moment. I just went to replace the filter at the electric feed pump and there was none in the canister when I removed it. I think the PO removed it trying to cure a fuel feed issue. I do know for sure the fan clutch was bad, when I took the old one out and could actually see it, there was fluid leaking past the seal on it. I may go ahead and change the feed pump for peace of mind there.
Leadman, I am going to check the counterweights and vacuum advance this weekend and will give an update as to what I find. I have a gauge and will check the operation of the distributor and egr valve. I work for an auto parts company as a commercial parts guy, been doing this kind of work for over 25 years now, and have a distributor and egr valve on standby in case I find any issues with either one. There are no stock vacuum advances available for this distributor any more, but luckily the distributor is and its not price prohibitive.
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