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Old 05-09-2015, 10:13 PM   #57
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After replacing the electric feed pump, the PO had the wrong one on it, the beast runs great and sits at 190 while driving, hits about 198-200 on hills in 90 plus outside temps, then cools right back down again. I am happy with the results for now! Thank you everyone for your help!
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #58
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Good thread....my '96 454 P32 dash temp gauge has always settled right around 210, then on a really steep long climb(plenty of them around here) I have see it climb as high as 245-250-ish then settle right back down at the top of the mtn. It could be the gauge, but it sure makes me nervous. I bought the MH in December and have put about 5K miles on it. Now that summer is rolling around I think I need to do some of the same things you have done.

Mine is Throttle Body Injection, and I don't think the '96 had the same kind of smog stuff as your '86. I guess I will start with a flush and a thermostat change and I need to learn how to test the fan clutch.
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:46 PM   #59
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I need to learn how to test the fan clutch.
If its working, you'll hear it roar into life at around 210 degrees- its pretty unmistakable in an RV where the engine is practically under your feet.

If you haven't been startled into thinking an airplane is taking off under the doghouse at some point, or that you've somehow dropped the tranny into 2nd gear at 60 mph, your fan clutch is not working.

Easy to pull off and replace, and only $50 or so.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:59 PM   #60
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Good thread....my '96 454 P32 dash temp gauge has always settled right around 210, then on a really steep long climb(plenty of them around here) I have see it climb as high as 245-250-ish then settle right back down at the top of the mtn. It could be the gauge, but it sure makes me nervous. I bought the MH in December and have put about 5K miles on it. Now that summer is rolling around I think I need to do some of the same things you have done.

Mine is Throttle Body Injection, and I don't think the '96 had the same kind of smog stuff as your '86. I guess I will start with a flush and a thermostat change and I need to learn how to test the fan clutch.
In my opinion, TBI is the most friendly to work on system we've ever had. Simple emissions controls, rugged, just easy to manage.

Clutches are fairly easy to assess. Cold, below 75* or so, turning the fan by hand should feel fairly thick, because the viscous oil is thick and gooey. Above that temp it will feel pretty free because the fluid inside thins out as it gets warm from both engine temp and internal friction. That's part of why when you start it cold sometimes you hear the fan roar, also if the engine was really warm and the clutch engaged when the engine was shut off the fluid is still in the chamber partially locking the clutch.

If the engine is running at near operating temp but not full temp, it should be very free and will continue spinning for several seconds if you shut the engine off.

Let it idle for awhile at temp and when you turn the engine off it should pretty much just stop with the engine and feel pretty stiff when you turn it, up to almost locked up. It should never lock solid unless it's failed, it's fluid driven much like a torque converter so nothing mechanical actually engages.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:49 PM   #61
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Motor7, a coolant flush, thermostat and fan clutch definitely took care of my cooling issues and eased my mind as well. After working in the parts business and working on engines for so many years, I have seen the damage that heat can do. While you are in the engine compartment, you may as well check any vacuum lines and replace them. sknight is correct in that the TBI set up is much more user friendly and reliable as well. I know one thing, your P32 will have a lot less vacuum lines than my 86 P30!
Another thing that was causing my heating issues was the fuel flow, or lack of it due to the wrong pump being installed by the PO. It was running too lean.
Thanks again to everyone for their help and knowledge of things arcane on these old beasts.
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:38 AM   #62
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Thanks for letting me glom onto your thread I'll take a look at it asap....I have one month before we head down to Clarks Hill Lake near Augusta Ga & will be pulling the 22/ pontoon. Lot's of mountains between here and there........
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:11 PM   #63
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Ok, I started working on mine today and will start a new thread..................
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:21 PM   #64
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Good deal, Motor7, I will follow along if you don't mind.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:10 PM   #65
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I'm glad you guys pretty much got this sorted out on your big blocks.

I am wondering why, with some of the troubles that can come from fan clutches, that nobody just doesn't go with an aluminum spacer and a good stainless fan. These engines are a natural to finding the cheap, performance Chevy parts that really do work. It would eliminate around 3-4 pounds of stock weight off the water pump and make it last longer while drawing in more air for cooling purposes. It's a win/win.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:41 PM   #66
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JaycoEagle10, I had considered that, but I really did not want to have to pull the shroud in half or pull the radiator out to change over to a direct drive fan. I managed to swap out the fan clutch from the top, between the the shroud and the alternator, which I removed for access.
Time is sort of the essence here since my father in law's health is very poor and he really wishes to be able to spend time with my three boys who are 14,12, and his pride and joy, our youngest one who is 2.
Its cooling very well now all systems are go for now. We are off to a local CG for Memorial Day weekend and I have never seen such excitement out of my father in law in many years.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:50 PM   #67
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I'm glad you guys pretty much got this sorted out on your big blocks.

I am wondering why, with some of the troubles that can come from fan clutches, that nobody just doesn't go with an aluminum spacer and a good stainless fan. These engines are a natural to finding the cheap, performance Chevy parts that really do work. It would eliminate around 3-4 pounds of stock weight off the water pump and make it last longer while drawing in more air for cooling purposes. It's a win/win.
Gearheads don't care, but their wives tend to get mouthy about the endless noise of the direct drive flex fans. Plus they tend to suck up a bit of fuel economy. Been there actually.

Clutch fans are actually pretty reliable, and their weight actually isn't loading the water pump like you'd think, because of the rate of slippage, the fan spends the vast majority of it's life freewheeling.
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