|
|
06-20-2018, 01:18 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,925
|
Please don't take this wrong I am just trying to state the facts here. Your problem at the moment is that you lack all the things you need to solve this puzzle, you don't have the diagnostic tools, or the knowledge of how to use them to solve this problem, also so far you have not been able to hire anyone that has the tools and knowledge.
These are problems that can be solved, there are many helpful youtube videos out there that can teach you how. The first thing you need is a working multi-meter, even one of those $10 harbor freight multi meters would help, you may also need a test light, though applied properly a multimeter can be used just about anywhere a test light may be used. You then need to learn how to use it, this is where youtube comes in.
Alternatively you need an experienced mechanic, or at least a shade tree one, though if they show up and don't have gray hair I would have my doubts about their ability to find your problem. The problem here is that many mechanics these days have no clue how to fix a vehicle that does not have an OBDII diagnostic port (which was introduced in 1996), this is not their fault they simply have never been around them. This is why when people on here ask about buying an older motorhome I ALWAYS say buy something built after 1996 if you can't do your own engine maintenance.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
06-20-2018, 01:40 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 436
|
Sounds like lots of issues and it is easy to get overwhelmed in a hurry. Work the issues one at a time.
1. Energy. Batteries at rest with nothing on should show 12 or more volts (hence the multimeter). There is at least a battery for the motor in the engine compartment. There may be other batteries either in the engine compartment, under the steps, or behind an exterior cargo door that go to the 'house'. If plugged in, the batteries showing 13+ volts are being charging. Same thing goes when the motor is running or the generator is running. (hence the need for a multimeter)
2. Motor stalling sounds like an alternator problem. To test first clean the wire connections at the motor battery. Measure the voltage across the battery and record. Start the motor and measure the voltage across the battery. If it is 13 volts or more but less than 16, the alternator is OK and battery should be charging. Run the motor for 20 - 30 minutes. Stop the motor, wait 30 minutes and measure the battery voltage again. If the battery voltage isn't up from the previous measurement, battery or cables are suspect.
2) Generator. Generator usually requires at least 3/8 tank of gas to run. Its a safety feature to prevent running the coach out of gas using the generator. The generator will also quit if the oil level is too low. There is a filler cap with a dipstick built in. Is there enough oil? Check those first and diagnose further from there. Also, prior to starting, hold down on the start button until the light comes on. This will prime fuel into the generator. Once the light comes on, push to start the generator.
|
|
|
06-20-2018, 01:41 PM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 120
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorPro
Does it have a volt gauge in the dash? If so what did it read when running?
|
Should I assume the volt gauge is different from the battery? If so, then no...it only has your basic gauges such as engine temp, oil, battery...
|
|
|
06-20-2018, 02:14 PM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 11,441
|
Great suggestions here. If you can get it started do as suggested with a cheap voltmeter. Measure across the battery before starting and then after. The before voltage should be around 12.7. After it is running that should go up to 13.5 or more.
You can watch a you tube video to give you confidence on the meter. You need the DC scale. You can practice on a AA battery etc if needed.
Another important suggestion was to buy a small charger to keep the engine battery up.
IF the alternator is not working start the generator and measure the voltage on the engine battery. If it does not go up then press the emergency start button somewhere around the driver and while it is pressed by a helper do the measurement.
This assumes you are NOT plugged into shoreline and if needed the shoreline cord may need to be actually plugged into an outlet near the cord in a compartment. Not all rvs do switching an the generator may just feed an outlet you need to plug into.
On one of our rv's of that vintage there was a switch inside that had to be thrown but I think that is rare.
__________________
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008
.
|
|
|
06-20-2018, 07:00 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 492
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrum81
Should I assume the volt gauge is different from the battery? If so, then no...it only has your basic gauges such as engine temp, oil, battery...
|
What did the battery (volt ) gauge read?
|
|
|
06-20-2018, 07:43 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,469
|
Where are you at in FL now? I’m in Tampa are you close to me? I can bring battery charger and voltmeter if close and see if we can start to sort through your issues. We can check battery, alternator, etc...
__________________
US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 01:38 AM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: anywhere U.S.A, Currently back home in Thailand!
Posts: 4,245
|
From what you described it sounds like your alternator in not charging, and your battery is getting run down!
One way to test this is start your MH, and take the positive cable off the start battery under your hood! If it dies when you remove the + battery cable, your alternator is bad! If both your battery's are under the hood, follow the positive wire to the starter to determine which battery is your motor start battery! Alternators are not that expensive for your MH, get the same amp/kind that you are taking off! Any parts store will have them in stock!
If you are in a CG, go to the office and ask if they know a guy that can come and swap the alt. out for you! Most CG's have a guy! Good luck! Rail!
__________________
Retired, and "Always on Holiday!"
1996 Monaco Windsor 38PB, "Mona" 275 HP., 8.3 Cummins, 3060 Allison 6 speed, 2001 PT Cruiser, "Bailey"
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 05:12 AM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rendon, Texas
Posts: 1,460
|
We are retired teachers and I do know your pain. It's okay to be frustrated, just take a deep breath and look at these problems as another challenge to be mastered. Remember, a Class C motorhome is nothing more than an enlarged van, with a lot more parts. Use your problem solving skills to identify which part is not working, and then repair/replace it. RV's are constantly needing repairs. However, the enjoyment of traveling in an RV is what we love. Our grown children still talk about the trips we took during the summers.
Good luck on your new adventure.
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 06:16 AM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 120
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee
Where are you at in FL now? I’m in Tampa are you close to me? I can bring battery charger and voltmeter if close and see if we can start to sort through your issues. We can check battery, alternator, etc...
|
Unfortunately I am in Tallahassee.
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 07:27 AM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 120
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorPro
What did the battery (volt ) gauge read?
|
The battery gauge read fine, right where it should be.
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 08:54 AM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 120
|
New question, can your alternator be bad and still pass the test where you remove the positive wire to see if the car dies? My rig did not die but I am still researching and was curious. I'm looking around for a volt meter and then plan to test the voltage regulator as well. I suspect that is the issue but we'll see.
Thank you guys for all the encouragement.
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 09:31 AM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Posts: 3,941
|
1998. Is it a ford or a chevy. I'm about as stupid as a fire plug, and I can change an alternator, I am certain you can too. Every airplane I ever flew, at first sight I thought I'd certainly wash out. But two years later, I'm putting it on like pants. You will too, have faith, be patient. So, your alternator. Is it really bad? Let's find out! Charge your chassis (engine) battery with a your portable battery charger (don't have one, go buy one, more later). It likely does not charge from shore power. Then, when fully charged, put your volt meter/multi-meter on it and read its volts (no multimeter, go buy one, $15 at HarborFrieght). With the motor off, volts should be like 12.5-13.5 ish. Now start the motor, and the ac and the lights and other chassis electrical. Have a beer. When your beer is done, put your multimeter on the battery again. Do you still have better than 13 volts? Yes = alternator good. No = alternator bad. We can do this; me, you and iRV2.
__________________
Cheers,
TonyMac
2006 Monaco Safari Cheetah 40PMT
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 09:57 AM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 120
|
Thank you TonyMac,
I asked around at the park for a volt meter but to no avail however, I found someone with a charger box. Apparently those aren't cheap. I called Auto Zone and he quoted over a hundred. Does that sound right? SO the plan is to do just as you said. I hooked it up and low and behold the battery is totally dead so I'm making coffee and letting it charge. No beer but it's so hot I'm wishing I had a beer.
My plan is to remove the positive cable once the battery is charged and I turn the engine over. If it dies, then problem solved. As for being able to replace the alternator myself...I can see it, touch it, but I am unsure how to get to it. I guess while I sip my coffee I will watch YouTube. Hang tight! I can do this, right?
|
|
|
06-21-2018, 10:15 AM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 1,143
|
While rare.. it also could possibly be a bad battery.. it does happen.. but I would do as everyone else suggested..
I would follow and clean all battery terminals and connections.. that is the #1 start on all diagnostic tree's when it comes to electrical issues.. you NEED to make sure you have a good ground and proper "energy flow" from the positive side.
Another thing you can do, once you get a multi-meter, is check to see if you have a parasitic drain on your battery.. all you have to do is periodically check your battery over a few hour period of time.. if the voltage drops at a fast rate, you could have something shorted out that is draining your battery..
At the end of the day.. keep in mind, you're on vacation, with your family.. it could be worse.. you could be back at work with 30 screaming/unruly kids...
__________________
Eric & Denise
2012 Itasca Sunstar 35F W/ 5-Star Tuner
2017 Harley-Davidson Ultra Limited
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|