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Old 07-26-2012, 11:31 PM   #15
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Done. No runs, drips or errors.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:32 PM   #16
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Yeah. Electrical tape is gonna fix THAT.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:34 PM   #17
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Current water pressure. Not so good.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:50 PM   #18
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You may not ever get much water pressure with that air pressure system.

I remember the old converted school bus that my granddad bought in the mid 60s had an air pressure system, and it took forever to fill the tea kettle for the hot water to wash the dishes. No shower or flush toilet in that old rig...
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:59 PM   #19
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You may not ever get much water pressure with that air pressure system.

I remember the old converted school bus that my granddad bought in the mid 60s had an air pressure system, and it took forever to fill the tea kettle for the hot water to wash the dishes. No shower or flush toilet in that old rig...
True, most modern RV systems are set at 50-60 psi. The compressed air systems would use up the air pressure quickly.

The KenCraft my parents ordered had the compressed air pressure system, an instant water heater like they're just starting to use today, a marine head and a fully metal lined shower stall around the head. No grey or black tanks though. Propane furnace in the floor, a 3 way refer that you had to manually remove the gas flame splitter and install the electric element, and a gas mantle light. And, due to it's weight, LOTS of tire problems and blowouts!
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:17 AM   #20
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I'm gonna have to try this once... but start saving for a new tank and pump.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:12 AM   #21
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I found the valve. This is crazy technology. Now one thing I did notice is that it is pretty much a cap with a hole. There is no schraeder valve inside. Is this right? Or do I need to get a replacement valve and screw it in there?

I think I better be thinking about a tank and pump in the near future. LOL
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:20 AM   #22
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Did you find the valve inside or at the 5 o'clock position on the side of the fill neck outside? If the threads are OK, you should be able to just screw in a new schrader valve. Many bike shops have a combo tool that can clean the thread up if they are questionable. I do agree, saving up for a new tank and pump is a good idea.

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Old 07-27-2012, 11:24 AM   #23
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Did you find the valve inside or at the 5 o'clock position on the side of the fill neck outside? If the threads are OK, you should be able to just screw in a new schrader valve.
Between 5 and 6, yes. Dunno about the threads, I suppose there is only one way to find out. So long as a new valve and the tool are cheap, it's worth my time as an experiment alone.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:24 AM   #24
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Is the water tank a plastic tank or an old galvanised tank? If it is the old metal tank, I would go easy on pressurizing it. Have you located a small on board 12 VDC air compressor?

I would get the metal tank gone and put in a nice plastic tank a a 12 VDC demand water pump and switch.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:31 AM   #25
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Looking at the old metal P trap, I'd say water was left in it over winter and a freeze ruptured the pipe. The PO probably used more tape than a new trap would have cost!
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:09 PM   #26
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It's a metal tank but in amazingly good shape, like a lot of this trailer is. Will price tanks and pumps at lunch.

Here's the nipple.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:52 PM   #27
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I have been looking over the system and I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed... but I have reason to believe it may have already been retrofitted to a more standard water pump, using the existing tank. If anyone could put their eyes on this and share their opinions, I would appreciate it.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:55 PM   #28
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To me if this is an air pump, there would be a single line into the tank with some form of backflow prevention. I also cannot believe that any pump regulating a tank to 100 PSI would be
made of a non-reinforced hose. Without tracing this too judiciously, I believe this is simply the line up to the faucet. It's an easy test, just gotta disconnect it.
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