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Old 04-22-2007, 05:12 AM   #29
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The 1970 doesn't have any water holding tanks, no grey water or black water. It seems to have been designed to hook up directly to a dump station or tank with the short hose in the bumper. If it had them, I would remove them anyway and put something in that works for me.

Yesterday I found rot, mold and mildew behind and underneath the small dorm-style refrigerator that had been set in place. Luckily the framing isn't rotten, but the wall is ruined behind the cabinet. When I get a different setup there, I'm going to put a drip pan under that fridge, I can't imagine why there wasn't one there.

I'm considering a heat pump type of appliance, the roof air conditioner is bent and disfigured (even though I was told it still works). There is an outside access cabinet that would work if I can find a heat pump to fit in there, and it's lined with sheet metal. The furnace is also beat up and questionable, and had been installed in an interior cabinet. It's not original, and possibly older than my camper.

I've priced all kinds of materials for this project, doesn't seem too spendy yet. The big dilemma is whether to use a fiberglass repair kit at $140+, or use some other material to fix the roof. Anybody have any thoughts on that?
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Old 04-22-2007, 06:32 AM   #30
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Cubey:
...and you could use your grey water to help water nature... </div></BLOCKQUOTE> You can't dump grey water on the ground in the Southern Appalachians or in any public campground (including boondock sites) in the SE that we've been to.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">...it was in horrid condition and I was told "all it needs is sweeping out". Yeah... right.... if anyone weighing much more than me (145lbs) got into it, they'd probably have fallen through the floor... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Are these people crazy or what? Can't they SEE!

I still say get the 4 wheeler (30 gal). We dump our 18 gal holding tanks every 3 days. I'm the only one using the toilet (David uses the bathouse). I wash dishes for the two of us every day. We use the bathhouse for showers. When empty they are lightweight. Perhaps you can carry it in front of the LP tanks (I keep forgetting you have a trailer).
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Old 04-22-2007, 07:02 AM   #31
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by pinecone70:
The 1970 doesn't have any water holding tanks, no grey water or black water. It seems to have been designed to hook up directly to a dump station or tank with the short hose in the bumper. If it had them, I would remove them anyway and put something in that works for me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> you can buy generic holding tanks from several sources. Ours are held in place by metal plumbing straps screwed to the bottom of the floor.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">...I'm going to put a drip pan under that fridge, I can't imagine why there wasn't one there... </div></BLOCKQUOTE> We had an older dorm fridge, it had a drain tube that we extended out thru the floor in our popup. Both the new fridge and freezer that we put in the Class C last summer, does not have a "pan" or drip tube.
They have changed the way these things are made.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'm considering a heat pump type of appliance... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Heat pumps will not heat below 40F. Also you will need electric hook-ups. While an RV furnace is an inefficent gas hog, they still beat anything when it comes to heating the place up. We use an electic space heater until it gets too cold then we set the thermostat of the furnace to come on.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">...The big dilemma is whether to use a fiberglass repair kit at $140+, or use some other material to fix the roof. Anybody have any thoughts on that? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

This is what we did. But we only had small holes in the roof, mostly from removing the roof rack. We patched those with a caulking tube of white elastometric roofing compound (ditto for the clearence lights). I then scraped alot of the older loose stuff off and patched the seams with a patching tape and rubber roofing coating from www.snowroof.com I'm following these directions but the top coat can says to also prime the entire area with the Elastoseal (patching took an entire 1 gallon can). I still need to prime the whole roof and topcoat it. Had to stop because the Live Oaks were dumping all the pollen and then started losing the "tassels". Couldn't keep the roof clean enough and get enough dry days in a row to roll the primer on. Hopefully I can get it done when we get back up to Cordele this week. But I think it's suposed to rain Friday. Maybe next week? But no leaks anywhere!! I'm hoping the rubber roof coating will lessen the sound the rain makes on the roof. It gets awfully noisy in here when it rains.
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:33 AM   #32
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lorna:
You can't dump grey water on the ground in the Southern Appalachians or in any public campground (including boondock sites) in the SE that we've been to.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
In the 60's you could it seems since they purposely made this trailers that way and bragged about it being a feature no other trailer had. *lol*

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lorna:
Are these people crazy or what? Can't they SEE!
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes but they're just so desperate to sell it, I guess they figure someone will finally come along and just fall in love with it and fork over $500 for it. I don't recall if it had wings still or not or the original door lock. In fact though, I don't think it was the original door unless they added the window to it. I do know that the sheetmetal under the trailer was gone so you could look under the trailer and see the sagging floor.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lorna:
I still say get the 4 wheeler (30 gal). We dump our 18 gal holding tanks every 3 days. I'm the only one using the toilet (David uses the bathouse). I wash dishes for the two of us every day. We use the bathhouse for showers. When empty they are lightweight. Perhaps you can carry it in front of the LP tanks (I keep forgetting you have a trailer). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The 30 gal tank is a bit too expensive for me. Keep in mind it's only one person, me, who will be using the trailer and all there is right now is a cold water sink. Should I ever add the toilet back it'll have a black water tank built in for that. There isn't a shower. I think a 15 gal or so would be perfectly fine. Also... unless I'm somehow mistaken, they make the 2 wheel ones with a tow bar thing. I would simpley have to wheel it over to my van, hook it onto the hitch and drive the container over to the dump station within the park. So the only moving of it I'd have to do manually is hooking it to the van and unhooking it at the dump station.

Also I don't have a hot water heater so where washing dishes is concerned, for hot water I will have to heat it up on the stove top in a large pot, so hot water is going to be a very sacred thing and so most of the dish water waste will actually be the rinse water. I plan to use paper plates as much as possible do reduce time spent washing dishes and to prevent filling the portable grey water tank when I'm not at a full hookups site.

One thing I keep pondering on doing perhaps some day is redo a toilet so that it will only operate on full hookups. This might seem strange and sort of pointless but if I ever decide to primarily use RV parks with full hookups, then a holding tank will be kind of costly (chemicals) and pointless. I might have to use a normal, full sized household toilet however so there will be enough powerful waterflow to flush all the way down the sewer hose. If I could get this to occur with an RV toilet then it would be better I guess as far as how much water it uses but I'm thinking it wouldn't have enough flushing power since RV toilets are supposed to just simply dump straight down into the tank.
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:10 AM   #33
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The problem with trying to make a RV toilet work without a holding tank is that there isn't enough water used in your standard RV toilet to properly flush solids out the hose and you'd wind up with unpleasant blockages.

From the sounds of it, I got really lucky with having a big combined holding tank on my 1974 Truck Camper. Mine has a diversion valve setup so I can either use the tank for both grey and toilet, or just toilet and run the grey off onto the ground, bucket, etc... Atm, I'm hunting down parts from scrapped pickup campers, in particular the old fresh water tank to convert it into a grey tank, which I will strap with a plywood support deck under hte frame of my chuckwagon trailer I tow with me on longer dry camping trips. This way I can use a garden hose and a drain valve cap with the fitting on it to directly run my grey into the trailer's tank. Then, if I intend to stay for a while, I can dump the camper at camp and use the truck to tow the trailer out to somewhere where I can dump the grey water.
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:32 PM   #34
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Too bad that rv doesn't have what my old Winne had. Mine had a valve that you could open while you drove down the road. The valve went into the exhaust. It would burn the poddy and grey water and all that came out was steam!! Mine had a single tank, a Big single tank!
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:14 PM   #35
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
Too bad that rv doesn't have what my old Winne had. Mine had a valve that you could open while you drove down the road. The valve went into the exhaust. It would burn the poddy and grey water and all that came out was steam!! Mine had a single tank, a Big single tank! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What a lovely smell that must make driving down the road.
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Old 04-24-2007, 08:42 PM   #36
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Nope! You couldn't smell it at all! I had a friend follow me down to where I was going to park it and I 'dumped' The tank going down the road at 65 mph!! He was on the cb and asked if I saw a increase in water temp, as he was seeing steam come out the exhaust pipe!! I told him what was going on and he about lost it right on the curve!
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:47 PM   #37
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We used a "self-contained" porti-potti in our pop-up (dumped it into the toilet at the bathhouse... just make sure you lift the lid & seat before dumping). No plumbing of any kind was needed. We did raise it up about 5 or 6 inches on a shelf but that was all. I've seen several at yard sales. We still have the one from the camper. We kept it for "emergency use". If there is no power, the toilet in the cabin can't be flushed more than twice. The water depends on an electric powered well pump.
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