Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-25-2014, 04:45 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Funrover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 290
Frame and skin?

While I can't do it at the moment I am doing research. Has anyone here ever replaced the old woof framing with aluminium studs? ( I have a friend to help me do the welding) I want to keep my 1966 around for a bit and this way it won't rot. Also How does the outer skin attach at roof seems and such?

Thanks
__________________

__________________
Funrover is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-26-2014, 05:21 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Shadowcatche's Avatar
 
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,219
Our teardrop has an all aluminum frame and is covered using a Filon skin. One of my concerns was rot but unless you build with aluminum to begin with attaching it to steel frames is difficult because any aluminum to steel connection means galvanic action with out isolating them from each other. The best way to prevent rot is to make sure it does not get wet, ever.
__________________

__________________
Shadowcatche is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2014, 07:39 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
The best way to keep it around a bit is to keep it waterproof!

I think once you figure out what kind of project you're talking about you'll see it might be easier to scratch build a new one?
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2014, 07:53 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
bruceisla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: St. Lucie West, FL
Posts: 5,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
The best way to keep it around a bit is to keep it waterproof!

I think once you figure out what kind of project you're talking about you'll see it might be easier to scratch build a new one?
X2 !!
__________________
2005 Newmar Essex 4502, 2013 Caddy SRX
1997 HR Endeavor 37, CAT, 1996 Geo Tracker
bruceisla is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2014, 01:46 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Funrover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
The best way to keep it around a bit is to keep it waterproof!

I think once you figure out what kind of project you're talking about you'll see it might be easier to scratch build a new one?
The camper portion is most likely gonna be a new rebuild, However the truck I am keeping. I want it to retain the classic look, but upgrade to newer amenities and keep weight down
__________________
Funrover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2014, 09:08 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
I think once you figure out what kind of project you're talking about you'll see it might be easier to scratch build a new one?
X3. You can use the original skin over a new frame and make it total modern.
__________________
Argosy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2014, 11:53 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Funrover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy View Post
X3. You can use the original skin over a new frame and make it total modern.
Parts of the original skin are filled with little pin holes. I had originally thought of using automotive undercoating on the inside and a white bedliner on the outside to solve this issue.
__________________
Funrover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2014, 04:48 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Most all of that old skin is still available (exact match). You'll need to find a good dealer that knows what they're doing to get it though.
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2014, 06:41 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 677
Making skin waterproof

Here is what we did to make our fiberglass waterproof when we repaired extensive water wall damage. Purchase 3M two part epoxy at Autozone or a specialized auto paint store. Put this on the interior fiberglass with a old paint brush. Use an industrial respirator and open every vent and window. It dries to a hard waterproof finish. It takes several days for the smell to disappear. Price out new fiberglass panels vs the cost for doing this. We have had no leaks since doing this several years ago. This is what the factory would have done to restore and waterproof. Best of luck with your repairs.
__________________
sam-3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2014, 01:08 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Funrover's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Most all of that old skin is still available (exact match). You'll need to find a good dealer that knows what they're doing to get it though.
I want to keep the sides original, but I am going to go with a thicker gauge on all of the front facing portions and roof to prevent those pesky rocks(gravel) and other small misc. objects from causing pin holes. It won't bother me that it's not an exact match if it works better and last longer. almost all of my camping is boondocking and dirt roads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam-3 View Post
Here is what we did to make our fiberglass waterproof when we repaired extensive water wall damage. Purchase 3M two part epoxy at Autozone or a specialized auto paint store. Put this on the interior fiberglass with a old paint brush. Use an industrial respirator and open every vent and window. It dries to a hard waterproof finish. It takes several days for the smell to disappear. Price out new fiberglass panels vs the cost for doing this. We have had no leaks since doing this several years ago. This is what the factory would have done to restore and waterproof. Best of luck with your repairs.
I like that idea, there are spots that I will fiberglass for strength (joints and such. Like boat building). I appreciate the thought, I may look into that option a bit more!
__________________

__________________
Funrover is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Problem with tires..... bighamstoy Travel Trailer Discussion 13 09-26-2013 08:39 AM
Windows leaking AaronJ Vintage RV's 5 09-19-2013 06:23 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.