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Old 04-24-2012, 07:38 PM   #1
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fuel tank

So my first order of business on my 86 beaver is to get it running off its own fuel tank. Dropped the gas tank today, removed sending unit, pickup assembly, (after siphoning out about 25 gallons of gas), pickup tubes were really rusted and will definately need to be replaced. The gas tank also has rust in it. So the question: should it be replaced, and if so any recommendations on where to get one? Or can it be cleaned and reused, if so what's the procedure for doing so? Thank you in advance for any suggestions
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:54 PM   #2
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It can be cleaned and lined, check cost vs replacement.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:59 PM   #3
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is there a product out there to use to line the tank? i've read alot of articles that say to use muratic acid to clean the inside of the tank. any thoughts?
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:11 PM   #4
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is there a product out there to use to line the tank? i've read alot of articles that say to use muratic acid to clean the inside of the tank. any thoughts?
I have seen a product called creme for motorcycyle tanks
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:21 PM   #5
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I can't remember what it is called but the a=ford dealer down in town sales a qt can of a grey compound that you pour into the tank. you need to make sure that it gets everywhere in the tank and every couple of minutes you need to rotate the tank so it doesn't pool in the bottom. After it cures it will not crack or leak again unless something hits it Hard!! I used it in the tank in my old Mazda Pickup. It worked great. It had a ford part # so it may be had at Ford Dealers.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:05 AM   #6
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I used a product many years ago from J.C. Whitney that was a thick liquid. I cleaned the tank first with muratic acid. This is a nasty job so if you have never dealt with such a hazardous chemical you may want to find a radiator shop that will clean it.

If you still want to clean it yourself this is how I would proceed if it was mine:

With the tank empty dump in a couple gallons of one of the purple cleaners available from several sources. Castrol Super Clean from several auto stores, Purple Power from Pep Boys and others, or probably the strongest is the purple cleaner from Sam's Club which is strong enough to nuetralize battery corrosion. Let is soak awhile and move the tank around if any corrosion is not covered by the liquid.

Dump the purple soap and rinse with water. Let air dry or use a fan if gas fumes are not present.

If the corrosion is not severe you might be able to dilute the acid. I would mix a dilution in a 5 gal bucket with full personal protection gear on. The Tyvek suits from the home improvement centers work well, along with a respirator, rubber gloves, eye protection. Pour the acid slowly into the tank. The tank will have to be moved around to get the acid to clean the entire interior. The varnish coating from the gas has to be removed if the new coating liquid is going to stick. Follow the instructions on the coating liquid.

New gas tanks are available from the aftermarket and might be cheaper than messing with yours in the long run.
Make sure you check the sending unit rehostat while it is out. I have seen several that the copper wire was disolved by the old gas. This can be done with a DVOM.
Good luck and stay safe.
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #7
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I have built a few motorcycles and always used kream. My Moho tank was rusted and wouldn't even think of trying to coat it myself. There are baffles and the tray for the pump and if you miss one spot and the fuel gets under it it will peel and you will have a real mess. I shipped my tank here. Moyer Fuel Tank Renu - antique gas tank repair restoration, classic car gas tanks GASTANK
It was not cheap but I searched everywhere for a new tank and even Chevy could not get one in there national data base. There are numbers sprayed on the side of the tank if you want to try for a stock tank. It cost me about $1500.00 to ship the tank to and from Moyers and get the tank coated. They cut the top off the tank clean changed baffles and tray to stainless steel reweld tank coat and bake and paint outside of tank.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:20 AM   #8
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What year and make/model is your chassis?

I checked O'reilly auto parts website and they have 3 different tanks for my '87 P30 chassis and also sell the liquid tank liner. A gallon was about $55.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:45 AM   #9
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1986 Beaver. P30 chasis
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:58 AM   #10
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What year and make/model is your chassis?

I checked O'reilly auto parts website and they have 3 different tanks for my '87 P30 chassis and also sell the liquid tank liner. A gallon was about $55.
If you buy new, get the biggest tank you can find, you can go further on a fill and as someone said here, get a fill up before you get on any turnpike or freeway the gas on those toll roads is always way more expensive then off road filling stations.

MY buddy has the same size RV as Me, he has a 60 gal tank, I have a 90 gal tank, theoretically at 10 mpg I can go 300 miles further on a fill up. The Florida Turnpike is 300 miles long and the gas is about 15-20 cents more per gal on it then off it and when the price goes down they are the last to lower the price.

Just me rambling on again with my two cents
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:07 PM   #11
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Muratic acid with sharp gravel in tank-agitate as long as you can (all sides). Do out doors. Wear mask/eye protection/rubber gloves. After its clean you need to neutralize the tanks insides with baking soda/water. Rinse with hot water. Let dry (use a hair drier). And then pour in your choice of tank liner-the people that make Por-15 make a tank liner. Tumble tank to coat the insides. Or take it to a good radiator shop and they can "boil out" the tank and then they or you can line the tank.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:52 PM   #12
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Ok so update on where im at with my tank. After doing some research about, and reading what others have posted, I have decided to use OSPHOwhich can be purchased a Sherwin Williams, it is an acid that is used to prepare rusted surfaces for paint. I've rinsed the tank several times already in preparations to remove loose particles, its been drying for two days now. Tomorrow im hoping to get the OSPHO into the tank and let it do its thing. Thanks for all the input you guys have given, and I will keep you all posted on my progress.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:35 AM   #13
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I'm not sure that the OSPHO is what you need. I used a similar product from Home Depot on rusted metal and it forms a coating on the surface of the metal. Paint stayed on it just fine but is the liner going to?
Did SW say that the tank liner would adhere to this coating?

It would be terrible if the OSPHO coating was damaged by the tank liner and came off.

I know the tank liner I used many years ago said the metal had to be clean and dry.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:50 AM   #14
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I checked Oreilly's Auto Parts website and they list a tank for your year and chassis. It is not available on-line, says to call the store. They listed 2 brands, one is $260, the other about $100 more.
Their tank liner said the metal has to be clean as the coating adheres to the metal.

Also when I used the HD rust coating all the loose rust had to be sanded off the metal.
Not trying to change your mind but after being a mechanic and shop foreman since 1969 I try to think of what can possibly go wrong before I actually do a repair, especially if I have some time.
If I was in your position I would check out the new tank first, second option would be the radiator shop and coating, third, acid and coating, fourth, OSPHO and coating. I think this order of choices would result in the outcome of the most dependable do it and forget it repair to is the liner going to hold on to the tank?
I reliaze that a budget can come into play on MH repairs also. Whatever you decide I wish you well with no future problems.
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