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Old 11-09-2015, 05:55 PM   #1
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Furnace help on a 1971 holiday rambler

Hello all, new to the forum and looking for some help with my 71' 22 foot holiday rambler. I purchased the camper about a month ago for a steal, good an solid no leaks had just been sitting for some time. I've replaced the ceiling and insulation, re floored it and built a new table set. Getting it ready for a week trip at the end of the month. The previous owner removed the furnace in a failed attempt to keep mice from nesting in it. I've got it all cleaned up and ready to re install but can't seem to figure out what wires go were and don't want to burn anything up. The furnace has 2 blue wires, a red wire and a yellow wire. And the space for the furnace under the cook stove has a a black wire, a white wire both large guage. And a red and a yellow wire both small guage. I would assume the red and yellow go together and I know black and white are 110v power and ground but what blue site coincides with what? And help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:53 PM   #2
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If I remember right the 2 blue wires on the furnace are for the thermostat ,the red should be positive for 12 volt and the white is ground. My guess would be that the yellow was once white. you would need to check the thermostat on the wall and see what colors the wires are and try to trace them back to where the furnace goes to see which ones connect to the 2 blue wires.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:59 PM   #3
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are you sure your heater is 110v? most heaters in RVs are 12vs, at least the ones that run on propane
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:03 PM   #4
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I should have specified that this is a travel trailer, I hope this is the correct area for my post. Everything else seems to be 110 unless the power is converted to 12 somewhere onlong the line. I have it plugged into my garage currently for the lights and what not. I guess I'll break out the multi meter and make sure its 110.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:18 PM   #5
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Your propane furnace should be 12V.
It needs to be able to work when you are not hooked up to 110 power.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:50 PM   #6
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A trailer this age may have a small simple power converter in the furnace to drop the 110v down to 12v for it's own use.

The 12v wires leading to the furnace (trailer side) could be quickly confirmed with a test light or multimeter.

You could pull the Tstat on the wall to see which wires under the cabinet lead to that. Those will go to the blue on the furnace. Doesn't make any difference which goes where (blue vs. blue).
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:10 PM   #7
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The small guage wires red and yellow/white go to the thermostat. Which leaves the larger black and white to be power and ground. Just broke out the multi meter and there is no power there at all. So looks like I'll be trying to trade the wires
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:23 AM   #8
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Thinking it might be a good idea to locate the 12v fuse panel to see what you have going on there.

In other words, is the rest of the 12v system OK, or is the whole thing down?
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:09 AM   #9
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I guess I'll have to do some searching when I get home, don't know much about camper electrical systems. Every light fixture has normal incondesent bulbs, all the outlets run 110 power tools, even the fridge is plugged into a 2 prong outlet. The only electrical panel i can find is a box with 3 thirty amp breakers in the bathroom closet. So maybe your right in saying the furnace steps it from 110v to 12v internally?
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttwitchell View Post
I guess I'll have to do some searching when I get home, don't know much about camper electrical systems. Every light fixture has normal incondesent bulbs, all the outlets run 110 power tools, even the fridge is plugged into a 2 prong outlet. The only electrical panel i can find is a box with 3 thirty amp breakers in the bathroom closet. So maybe your right in saying the furnace steps it from 110v to 12v internally?
What brand and model of furnace is it? How is it vented to the outside? Does it have 2 vent holes on the outside of the trailer or do you actually have a residential furnace with just one pipe coming out the roof or something?

if it's actually the latter that would be interesting. we used to have a hand built horse trailer LQ conversion that was all 110v power and no 12 volt system at all but that was because it was slapped together using all residential parts in the 70s and wasn't built to any kind of RV industry standards.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:07 PM   #11
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There is no tags left on the furnace, one sticker on the blower itself says suburban appliance co. And yes it has 2 vents going outside
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:19 PM   #12
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There is no tags left on the furnace, one sticker on the blower itself says suburban appliance co. And yes it has 2 vents going outside
Then it's 12 volt for sure and it's going to have a 2 wire millivolt style thermostat. You will fry it for sure if you hook it to 110v AC.

I would look at some suburban furnace manuals online until you find one that looks like it fits what you have. If the thermostat is still hooked up you can trace those wires and hopefully find out where they hook up and the rest will be the 12v wires (polarity is important with 12v btw so make sure you have + and - correct)

Did mice actually nest inside of it? I'm not sure how you could completely clean it if that was the case. Mine was so corroded with mouse pee and contaminated I just bought a new suburban furnace. I couldn't find my model either because the mouse pee destroyed the tags inside the furnace also but I was able to find out what I had based on the manuals that came with my MH.
Replace or Service Suburban NT-25K

You can see the gory pictures at the above thread. I also replaced my heat ducting as it was also full of mouse crap and nesting material.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:32 PM   #13
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Here's a generic service manual that may be helpful for you. it includes how the control board on NT series furnaces are hooked up and what colors the wires are. You could be able to trace it by looking at your control board and how it's all wired on the furnace side.

http://www.appliedgmc.com/images/sub...es_furnace.pdf
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:00 PM   #14
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Thanks a lot for the help! So do you think somwhere I'm the camper the power bis converted from 110 to 12 and the reason I don't have power on the black and white leads is because the converter is shot?
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