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Old 11-03-2015, 11:07 AM   #1
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Furnace - No Heat

Howdy Guys! My 90 1/2 Bounder is in excellent condition. And we just returned from a 30-day outing to test new stuff, solar, inverter, converter etc.

The furnace had not been producing heat, and I presumed there was an undiagnosed problem that I had not gotten to as yet. But then, just before leaving on our trip, it started producing heat. And it worked fine for those few times we used it, mostly just to remove the morning chill. Then, as we were heading home, it no longer produced heat. The fan works, just no heat.

I'm attaching a composite photo that shows the unit, along with a close-up of the left and right ends where the wiring things are. I'm also attaching a close-up of the schematic that is on the unit.

There has been previous discussions about the "igniter". I have no idea as the what it looks like, nor do I know if THAT is the issue. I have a full propane tank. This is a SUBURBAN furnace.

Can anyone provide assistance? I'd like to try and fix it myself if possible.

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt350ed View Post
Howdy Guys! My 90 1/2 Bounder is in excellent condition. And we just returned from a 30-day outing to test new stuff, solar, inverter, converter etc.

The furnace had not been producing heat, and I presumed there was an undiagnosed problem that I had not gotten to as yet. But then, just before leaving on our trip, it started producing heat. And it worked fine for those few times we used it, mostly just to remove the morning chill. Then, as we were heading home, it no longer produced heat. The fan works, just no heat.

I'm attaching a composite photo that shows the unit, along with a close-up of the left and right ends where the wiring things are. I'm also attaching a close-up of the schematic that is on the unit.

There has been previous discussions about the "igniter". I have no idea as the what it looks like, nor do I know if THAT is the issue. I have a full propane tank. This is a SUBURBAN furnace.

Can anyone provide assistance? I'd like to try and fix it myself if possible.

Thanks.
gt350ed
When my Suberban SF-42F propane furnace did that same thing it was caused by a faulty sail switch:
http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-23226.../dp/B003G9FZ1G

BTW your sail switch is the black rectangular "thingee" on the lower right in your 3rd pic.

Mel
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:07 PM   #3
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Furnace - No Heat

The question is, does the fan start and then shutdown or does it continue to run but no heat?

If it shuts down, then it could be the sail switch is bad or dirty. Low battery voltage will also cause the sail switch to not authorize ignition. Restricted hot air register (low air flow) also can cause this.

If it continues to run, that is called lockout. The cause is the gas did not ignite or ignited and was not sensed. The furnace then goes into lockout with the gas off and the blower on to purge any unburnt gas. There are many causes for non-ignition with the most common being bug nests in the burner area.

The Service Manual for your furnace is online and will help with the troubleshooting and part identification.


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Old 11-03-2015, 07:51 PM   #4
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You would not believe the mud dauber nests I had to remove from the burner area in my furnace when I got my MH. They must really love that area. Just something for you to check.
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Old 11-03-2015, 11:43 PM   #5
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All good answers so far! What I have done twice a year, is take compressed air and blow out the furnace, water heater, fridge, to get rid of all the bug nests, dust, cobwebs, and such! You will not believe what you will get out of them? I use the long, (1 1/2')air blow att., and it works very good! As for the muddobber nests, they are a little more stubborn, but will come out! Have a can of "Brake Clean" handy, if any are still alive, it will knock them down, and kill them from up to 20' away! When you are done blowing them out, try them to see if it was just the dirt and dust causing the problem. You can buy the screens at the RV store, to keep the muddobbers and wasps out, and they work good! Hope this fixes it! Rail!
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:29 AM   #6
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I ran the propane tank to empty. I got it refilled and the furnace would not fire fan ran fine. I shut it off at the thermostat and then set it back to 70 and it fired right off.
JS,
Tim
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:18 PM   #7
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Thank You

I wanted to thank all of you who have contributed to this thread so far. I'm still diagnosing my furnace problem and am grateful for the information. Thanks for the sail switch link, and also for the heads-up about the manual availability online. I now have it and will use it as I proceed. My model turns out to be a SF-30. Once I figure things out and get it running, I'll report back.

Thanks again.

Ed
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Old 11-14-2015, 03:17 PM   #8
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Is it possible that the value at the tank is turned off? They are suppose to turn that off when they are filling the propane tank.
Sounds simple, I have had it happen to me right along with forgetting to lower the TV antenna.
JS
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:13 AM   #9
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Thanks for the reply Tim! No, the valve is open. We have used the stove and the propane side of the refrigerator since filling the propane tank. I'm supposed to receive the sail switch from Amazon tomorrow. We'll see if that solves it.
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:08 AM   #10
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IC, I hope that solves your problem. Let us know,
Thanks, Tim
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:18 AM   #11
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Success!

Hello everyone! As promised, I wanted to report back as to how I solved my furnace problem. As I mentioned, using the link provided here, I ordered a new sail switch. Unfortunately, although the description stated that it was for several Suburban furnace models, including my model SF-30, it seemed not to be the correct one. Once I received it, and removed the old one, I could see that there was a visual difference in the long arm or "sail" portion of the switch. Interestingly, one of the pieces of literature that I found from bryantrv.com discussed the different sail switches, showing drawings of both types. The difference has to due with the fact that my original had a little square paddle attached at the end of the long arm. The newer one has no such paddle. The literature warned against substituting one for the other.

I reinstalled the original sail switch and determined that it was actually working.

During my research, I came upon several YouTube videos that dealt with my furnace. Most showed how to remove the furnace and work or diagnose it while on a work bench. As the camera panned around the complete unit, I noticed that there is a metal panel on the hallway side of the unit. Removing two screws allows for removal of the panel. Behind this panel is what I found out is a limit switch. This switch has a push on wire on each end of the switch. If all is working properly, electricity flows TO this switch, the switch opens, and electricity continues on to the circuit board telling it that everything is okay and that it is okay to ignite.

Using my 12 volt test light, I determined that there was voltage on only one side of this limit switch. I wiggled, and ultimately removed the wire that was not receiving voltage and then replaced it. Whether it was loose, dirty, or both, once I reattached the push-on wire, the furnace ignited and everything seems to be working. Success! Woohoo!
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt350ed View Post
Hello everyone! As promised, I wanted to report back as to how I solved my furnace problem. As I mentioned, using the link provided here, I ordered a new sail switch. Unfortunately, although the description stated that it was for several Suburban furnace models, including my model SF-30, it seemed not to be the correct one. Once I received it, and removed the old one, I could see that there was a visual difference in the long arm or "sail" portion of the switch. Interestingly, one of the pieces of literature that I found from bryantrv.com discussed the different sail switches, showing drawings of both types. The difference has to due with the fact that my original had a little square paddle attached at the end of the long arm. The newer one has no such paddle. The literature warned against substituting one for the other.

I reinstalled the original sail switch and determined that it was actually working.

During my research, I came upon several YouTube videos that dealt with my furnace. Most showed how to remove the furnace and work or diagnose it while on a work bench. As the camera panned around the complete unit, I noticed that there is a metal panel on the hallway side of the unit. Removing two screws allows for removal of the panel. Behind this panel is what I found out is a limit switch. This switch has a push on wire on each end of the switch. If all is working properly, electricity flows TO this switch, the switch opens, and electricity continues on to the circuit board telling it that everything is okay and that it is okay to ignite.

Using my 12 volt test light, I determined that there was voltage on only one side of this limit switch. I wiggled, and ultimately removed the wire that was not receiving voltage and then replaced it. Whether it was loose, dirty, or both, once I reattached the push-on wire, the furnace ignited and everything seems to be working. Success! Woohoo!
gt350ed
Glad your furnace is working again!
Thanks for the update...(not everyone is that considerate).
Mel
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:16 AM   #13
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Ed, thanks for the update! Glad it was something simple!
X-2 what Mel said! Rail!
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:06 AM   #14
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X's 3
Don't ya just love it. I hope they have a good return policy.
Onto the next project.
Wonderful news
Thanks for the update
Tim
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