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Old 08-14-2015, 10:26 PM   #1
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Furnace Questions

Looks like I may be replacing the non-working, ancient Hydro-Flame DC8232 furnace.
The electrode works properly if the sense wire is not connected, but once that is connected, it arcs badly to the sense rod. There does not appear to be any cracks or breaks in the ceramic insulators, and the rods are adjusted properly.
There is no power from the board to the valve. The valve solenoid does work if jumped to 12v.
The sail switch is passing voltage to the limit switch, the limit switch is passing power to the board.

I'd just replace the board with a Dinosaur UIB-L, but if the electrode is arcing to the sense wire, I think it'll fry the sense circuit or the entire board. I could replace the electrode/sense assembly as well since the parts are available, but no guarantee that will eliminate the arcing.

The only thing preventing me from pulling the trigger on a new NT30SP is the exterior venting configuration. The Hydro-Flame external fresh air intake and exhaust are side by side, while the fresh air intake and exhaust on every new furnace I've seen is over/under. I'd end up with a fairly large hole to somehow close up.

What would be the best way to close off the gaping hole left if I grab a new furnace?

Is it worth taking a chance on the DC8232 with new board and electrode assy? Total cost would be ~$125 with shipping. Total cost for the new furnace would be ~$430 plus whatever it costs to repair the exterior wall.
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:30 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 429CV23 View Post
Looks like I may be replacing the non-working, ancient Hydro-Flame DC8232 furnace.
The electrode works properly if the sense wire is not connected, but once that is connected, it arcs badly to the sense rod. There does not appear to be any cracks or breaks in the ceramic insulators, and the rods are adjusted properly.
There is no power from the board to the valve. The valve solenoid does work if jumped to 12v.
The sail switch is passing voltage to the limit switch, the limit switch is passing power to the board.
I'd just replace the board with a Dinosaur UIB-L, but if the electrode is arcing to the sense wire, I think it'll fry the sense circuit or the entire board. I could replace the electrode/sense assembly as well since the parts are available, but no guarantee that will eliminate the arcing.
The only thing preventing me from pulling the trigger on a new NT30SP is the exterior venting configuration. The Hydro-Flame external fresh air intake and exhaust are side by side, while the fresh air intake and exhaust on every new furnace I've seen is over/under. I'd end up with a fairly large hole to somehow close up.
What would be the best way to close off the gaping hole left if I grab a new furnace?
Is it worth taking a chance on the DC8232 with new board and electrode assy? Total cost would be ~$125 with shipping. Total cost for the new furnace would be ~$430 plus whatever it costs to repair the exterior wall.
If as you say a flame sensor/spark ignitor is available for your furnace, I suggest you test it and/or replace it before pouring more $$ into your furnace.
BTW info here my be of help: Troubleshooting the RV Furnace,
as well as the other info that can be found by Googling "testing a Hydro-Flame flame sensor".
Also see if your furnace control board can be tested...(most RV repair shops test boards at no charge).
Mel
'96 Safari
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
If as you say a flame sensor/spark ignitor is available for your furnace, I suggest you test it and/or replace it before pouring more $$ into your furnace.
BTW info here my be of help: Troubleshooting the RV Furnace,
as well as the other info that can be found by Googling "testing a Hydro-Flame flame sensor".
Also see if your furnace control board can be tested...(most RV repair shops test boards at no charge).
Mel
'96 Safari
Yeah, I decided to see if I can repair this one first. I just ordered an electrode kit and the Dinosaur UIB-L board. I'll install the electode kit first, verify there is no arcing to the sensor before installing the new board.
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:18 PM   #4
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Got the furnace running well again.
Replaced the electrode assy and got good arcing again (and the flame sensor tip was broken off the old one which I didn't realize), but the valve wasn't opening. Installed the new Dinosaur board and everything seemed well, but still no fire. Had to pull the furnace out again and disassemble it enough to get the valve and orifice assy out. Looks like the daubers tried to get in the orifice because it was all plugged up too. Just need to reinstall the exterior vent and she'll be ready to go.
$120 for the parts is far cheaper than a new furnace, and the time I spent repairing it is probably a time & cost savings vs. trying to patch part of the exterior.
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