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Old 03-20-2015, 08:47 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by noslenwerdna View Post
MT4Runner, thank you for the manuals, especially the Diagnostic Repair manual.
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Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
FWIW - Before I spent a lot of time or money on wiring and modifications I would want to determine two things.
I suspect the wiring would be on the house end. Call an electrician.

You might only have to add a receptacle to the RV.


Great solution, Waiter21. "Manual Transfer Switch". Cleaner than extension cords running all over a couple times a year, safer than your wifey having to unplug the breakers in the main.

I have a similar (factory) setup for the 4kW Onan in my '92 Class C, and I wired in a similar setup for its residential fridge and TV/DVD.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:38 AM   #16
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I have set my house up similar to what Waiter21 did originally, before adding the red outlets. Mine is a simple hookup in case of power outage. I pulled the fuse block on the wall outside next to my air conditioner unit for the house, and made a plug out of a block of a plastic or nylon material with heavy copper prongs made out of flattened copper tubing that will plug into the box where the fuses normally go, and this plug is on the end of a cord that plugs into the 220v outlet on my generator. When the power goes out we only have to shut off the MAIN breaker in the house panel, and then go outside and plug the cord into the box by the AC unit and start the generator. Everything in the house is then powered up and no extension cords needed. Of course, we have to be conservative on the amount of power we try to use, as the gen. will not run the electric range or clothes dryer, but will take care of everything else. Do Not do this without shutting off the main breaker, as it will feed juice back into the power grid during an outage, and could electrocute a lineman working to restore power. I think it's probably against "code" just about everywhere.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:58 AM   #17
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Please stop posting the "probably out of code" postings.

This is a discoverable document so if something goes bad and a lawsuit is involved you are toast.

Folks see these and get the idea that if that guy did it so can I.

Well anyone can build that but they should not even consider it.

Any interconnection of a power source to your home must have a positive interlock or method of isolation.

Such methods like mts are cheap as in less than 200 bucks or so in parts.

No excuses for stupid...
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:27 AM   #18
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Any interconnection of a power source to your home must have a positive interlock or method of isolation.
^^^
The risk is not only to your home, but also to the utility workers who may be working on the grid. If you backfeed the grid and they have everything isolated from their end, you could still fry one of them if you're feeding your end. Please don't do that!
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:48 AM   #19
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After reading the manual for your generator if you rewire the generator for 240 you will only have 15 amps per leg.
(L1 & L2)30 amps total. You will need to rewire the main panel in your RV. The existing panel 30 amp will not handle 2 legs, only 1. This will cut your generator capacity to 15 amps total for use in your RV unless you change the main panel and split your loads. If you have an energy management system it will probable not work properly without modification also. There are ways to make it work but you will have more invested than a standalone generator.

As others have said however you standby power your house, make sure the connection at the house is per code. (physical mechanical interlock) There are all kinds of easy and cheap ways to make it work but its not worth the risk. You are talking other peoples lives.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:37 PM   #20
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I have NEVER seen a "cheap" method for hooking a gen. to a house. That is why people do it other ways than commercially available products, and I believe it was made abundantly clear in several posts that the grid MUST BE DISCONNECTED to protect linemen or anyone or anything else that might come in contact with power lines during any outage. Safety is the first priority whenever doing anything with wiring, and one must have a clear understanding of how circuits work before working on anything electrical.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:39 AM   #21
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If you think about it what I said I have the capability of doing or what waiter21 does it meets code. One has to manually disconnect from the house circuits and connect the desired appliances in question so there is no worry about back feeding. The problem arises when somebody comes up with a way to plug a power feed into *all* the house circuits.

FWIW in my mind connecting the whole house is a dumb move unless you have 10 KW or more available. People are creatures of habit. If they can turn on the dryer while the furnace is running they will go put a cup of water in the microwave for tea and blow the whole thing up. No matter how well they understand loads it just happens when we are tired and stressed out. It's a whole lot safer and smarter to limit the loading at the outset. Setting up to just supply the minimum to get by with avoids a lot of potential bad things.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:01 AM   #22
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After reading the manual for your generator if you rewire the generator for 240 you will only have 15 amps per leg.
(L1 & L2)30 amps total. You will need to rewire the main panel in your RV. The existing panel 30 amp will not handle 2 legs, only 1. This will cut your generator capacity to 15 amps total for use in your RV unless you change the main panel and split your loads. If you have an energy management system it will probable not work properly without modification also. There are ways to make it work but you will have more invested than a standalone generator.

As others have said however you standby power your house, make sure the connection at the house is per code. (physical mechanical interlock) There are all kinds of easy and cheap ways to make it work but its not worth the risk. You are talking other peoples lives.
It is a 5500W genset, isn't it? Shouldn't he get ~25A per leg @ 220V?
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