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Old 04-04-2015, 09:52 PM   #1
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Question H e l p

Just acquired a 1984 Beaver P30. It is pretty good shape for her age. I took her out last week and am now finding little things that need my attention.
I didn't get any manuals with her so I'm playing by ear.
I have found that my refrigerator won't cool down. And it appears there is suppose to be another 'part' for the water purifier .. and I have no idea what that is.
I also have a mysterious water spot in the hall leading to the bedroom area.
I think I need a manual of some sort.

Can someone help this newbie out?

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:01 PM   #2
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Finding an owner's manual for a rig that old might be very difficult, and might be disappointing as to the real information it contains. They are often a bit generic and lack some of the details you'd like to know.

I suggest you write down the make and model number of each system in your RV. Air Conditioner(s) Water Heater, Furnace, Refrigerator, Converter/Charger, Generator, etc. Then start searching on line for downloadable manuals and troubleshooting guides. You can also find manuals for many other RV manufacturers and download and read them for free. Reading a couple of manuals will have much of the same information a manual specific to your model would have.

Manuals - 1989 & older - RVing-The Midwest Connection

Manuals - 1990 & Newer - RVing-The Midwest Connection

Free Manual Downloads PDF Owner Guides and Technical Specification Manuals | ManualOwl.com
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Old 04-05-2015, 12:43 PM   #3
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Fridge- give it at least 24 hours to cool down. Running it on propane is usually more efficient, but switch from gas to electric and see if it works on one but not the other. The control circuit on your fridge may require 12v to work; use a meter to see if you have 12v going in the back, or to your fridge light.

If the coils in the back get hot, but no cooling takes place at all, look for oily or yellowish deposits- this is an ammonia leak and the cooling unit is dead. If you can't see any signs of ammonia, you probably have blocked coils- usually fatal- but can occasionally can be resurrected by removing and turning upside down. Blocked coils result from running the reefer while the coach is too far out of level.
New cooling units are available cheaper than a new gas-absorption fridge, but you may do better looking for a newer tear-out on ebay or somewhere, or give up and go to a small residential fridge.

Great source for manuals for your various systems. The owners manual for your rig may be hard to find, but check ebay. The manuals for the rig itself aren't usually all that useful; better to track down the documentation on the different appliances and systems. These were not unique to particular manufacturers, so they're usually available online.

What do you mean by "water spot"? Wet spot? or a mark left by water?
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:20 PM   #4
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Does your stove work?

Sometimes insufficient propane flow can keep the fridge from working. Does it stay lit?

You may also want to try cooling it on 120V or 12V if it runs in with if hormones, especially 120V, as it will cool faster. Propane is then very efficient for maintaining cold.

Pics of water spot?


Welcome aboard!

I just got home from a 1,800 mile trip through southern Utah in my 1992 Four Winds. We swam in Lake Powell, suffered a blocked fuel filter, hiked 5 slot canyons, played in sand dunes and hoodoo, crossed at least 8 passes, dealt with an ailing fuel pump and had a great time!!
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:24 PM   #5
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Thumbs up THANKS

Thanks for the help.
Yep.. I think the fridge is dead. Just need to pull it out and lay it to rest.

As for the 'wet spot'.. Really hard to take a pic since it is all carpeted in there - but you sure know it is there when you step in it at 2am.
It seems like it does it when I am hooked up to an outside water source.

Guess that is why I need a manual.. so I can see what waterline runs around that area.

Again.. Thank you for the H E L P.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:36 PM   #6
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Yep.. the stove works without a problem as well as the hot water heater. It is one of those Energy Efficient ones that will switch to what ever source is best suitable for it. It don't cool down on propane, 12V or 120V.
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:36 AM   #7
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Make sure you are level when running the fridge, learned that the hard way!


We are newbies as well, 1984 Tioga, we are learning the hard way, but people are very helpful!


We also overloaded the fridge one time, another lesson learned!
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:21 AM   #8
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When you have the water hooked up, do you notice any dripping underneath? It could be a split waterline or leaking fitting.

When the refrigerator is on, either 120 v or LP, you should feel heated parts when you feel in the outside compartment behind fridge. If no heat, then it's not working at all, perhaps a fuse or bad control board. If there's heat but still no cooling, then the upside down trick may allow fluids to flow again and start it working. If you notice yellow deposits on the coils on the back, your system has leaked and must be replaced.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
As for the 'wet spot'.. Really hard to take a pic since it is all carpeted in there - but you sure know it is there when you step in it at 2am.
It seems like it does it when I am hooked up to an outside water source.

Guess that is why I need a manual.. so I can see what waterline runs around that area.
You'd be the luckiest person on earth if you found a manual that showed detail like that.

I'm pretty confident that you will end up tearing out floor or walls to find your leak; the gray poly butyl they used has a definate lifespan, and everybody with an old rig will tell you stories about replacing and repairing leaks in it (Sharkbite style push-in fittings will become your new best friend.)

If you can definitively say that the leak occurs only when you're on city water, then there are 2 possible reasons. First, that you're dealing with a split that stays open under the constant pressure of city water but closes somewhat under the on again/off again pressure of your 12 volt pump OR that the break is actually in the section of plumbing that is between your fill opening and where it attaches to house plumbing. To see which it is, switch to your fresh water tank and leave your 12 volt pump on. If the leak is in part of the system only used with city water, then the pump should never come on until you open a faucet. If its is leaking elsewhere , the pump will cycle on and off as it senses low pressure (how quickly it cycles depends on the severity of the leak.)

What might make you feel even worse is that the wet spot is not necessarily where the leak is- water travels.

Since I don't know how your rig is constructed or where the plumbing runs (it will go through the shortest run possible from fresh water source to faucet however; RV manufacturers saved every possible nickel) You might try cranking up the city water pressure as high as it will go and use a stethoscope or waterglass-to-the-ear to listen for your leak. You should hear it readily if its a wall- not so clearly if its under the floor.
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:00 PM   #10
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Any ideas for the nasty plastic like stuff on the ceiling? Mine has ripples in it........
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:49 PM   #11
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Any ideas for the nasty plastic like stuff on the ceiling? Mine has ripples in it........
You can tear it all and replace it with something else, like headliner material- even carpet.

Is it coming loose? Thumbtacks in a careful diamond pattern (think tuck-and-roll upholstery) will look like something the manufacturer did.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:58 AM   #12
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Other than walls.floors,ceiling and roof (And even then not always the roof) MOtor homes are just a box... The body builder built the items mentioned.

DOORS,Microwave, Fridge,TV,Air conditioner, Furnace, Water heater, Power distribution panel(S), Converter,Chassis Mirrors,Cabinets, Sink, Water pump...Anytyhing that eats electricity or holds stuff.. or performs a function other than keeping the rain out.... Someone else built it and there is a very good chance you can go to the company web site,, Support, Documents and downloads Manuals and find the digi-manual dot PDF for your device.

That includes Rubber roofs (Why I conditionally exempted them from body builder)

As for the body... Standard body care works.

In addition there are some "Generic" owner's manuals out there

The RV Book
The RV Owner's Handbook

Your RV store should have one or the other... Neither is best (or worst) They are too close to call so I give them equal recommendations.
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